For your plans next winter: Savor exquisite Aomori French cuisine for a full three and a half hours amidst the silvery white landscape of Oirase | TRAVEL
LOUNGE / TRAVEL
May 20, 2021

For your plans next winter: Savor exquisite Aomori French cuisine for a full three and a half hours amidst the silvery white landscape of Oirase | TRAVEL

TRAVEL | Hoshinoya Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Savoring Aomori's "French Seafood" and Fine Wines at Oirase Keiryu Hotel's French Restaurant "Sonore" (1)

Though it's already spring, why not consider a local French dining experience for your winter plans? The theme is a full course of seafood from Aomori, prepared in French style. When you think of seafood, you might first imagine Italian cuisine, but we mustn't forget the exquisite pleasure of seafood prepared with the elaborate techniques of French cooking.

TALK by HASEGAWA Aya, TSUCHIDA Takashi

While the fresh green season is lovely, Oirase in midwinter is exceptionally delicious!

Oirase often brings to mind "refreshing spring and summer," but seafood is at its most flavorful in the dead of winter. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, Aomori receives a truly diverse array of seafood ingredients from its various currents. Winter is the perfect time to savor their exquisite taste!! With a new chef appointed in 2020, the restaurant's concept has also been refined.
Moreover, there's a free shuttle bus from Hachinohe Station, making it surprisingly accessible even in deep snow.
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TSUCHIDA TakashiThe French restaurant "Sonore" at Oirase Keiryu Hotel (hereinafter "Sonore") has a new chef since last spring, and the taste has changed again, hasn't it? The theme is Aomori seafood!!
I'd heard rumors, but it really has changed. While the theme of "French cuisine with Aomori ingredients" remains consistent, the personality is completely different now. And it's an unreservedly strong focus on "fish." Everything was delicious, but the sea cucumber was particularly memorable. I hadn't really found sea cucumber appealing before, but now I feel like I owe it an apology. This is exquisite!
Dried Sea Cucumber with Truffle
Dried Sea Cucumber with Truffle
TSUCHIDA TakashiApparently, eating sea cucumber is a custom in Aomori. That was the inspiration. And at "Sonore," it was combined with the aroma of truffle, making for a truly exceptional dish.
HASEGAWA AyaIt's said that the new chef at "Sonore" hit it off with a Chinese chef in Towada City who had trained at a certain super-famous Chinese restaurant, and they started using house-dried sea cucumber prepared using Chinese techniques. They then rehydrated it and mixed it with quail mince. Topped with a generous amount of truffle. It's simply delicious.
TSUCHIDA TakashiThe true pleasure of travel is learning about the local culture, isn't it? In that sense, "Sonore" taught us many things.
HASEGAWA AyaAnd the wine, too. The pairings were daring, and a few times I thought, "Huh, at this point?" but those very surprises were spot on. Like pairing natural wine with a strongly flavored dish; it seems unexpected, but once you taste it, you understand. The sea cucumber we've been talking about so much was paired with a spicy red wine, which was incredibly impactful!
TSUCHIDA TakashiWhen a sommelier is skilled, it's always a good idea to go with the pairing. They create a story with the wine, making the course twice as enjoyable!
HASEGAWA AyaExactly! Honestly, I've had several bad experiences with pairings at other restaurants in the past. Like, "Are they just serving me a bottle they had leftover from yesterday?" But with the current "Sonore," I highly recommend the pairing for those who drink alcohol!

Who is Chef OKA Ryosuke, the new chef at "Sonore"?

OKA Ryosuke
HASEGAWA AyaBy the way, the current chef, OKA Ryosuke, has only been at Oirase for about a year, right? I don't think he had any prior connection to Aomori...
TSUCHIDA TakashiHe's 35 and from Shiga. It's amazing how he can master seafood so well, having grown up in a landlocked area. Six out of the nine dishes, including the sea cucumber, were seafood.
Beef, Lily Bulb, Black Garlic
HASEGAWA AyaYes. While meat is used for the base and as a hidden flavor, only the main dish is explicitly called "meat." And this beef dish was truly something else. He mentioned that he deliberately sources beef from producers he trusts most, not necessarily limiting it to Aomori. I'd never found aged beef delicious before, but this was undeniably good. Satisfying even without sauce.
TSUCHIDA TakashiIt seems they age the ribeye for about three to four weeks and then charcoal-grill it at the optimal moment.
Here is the menu from our visit
HASEGAWA AyaThe portions are small, and there are many dishes, but the main course is substantial, keeping you excited and full without realizing it. It must involve a lot of work, and I worry about the kitchen's workload, though it's not my place to say. Given the number of dishes and the quality, I think it's quite reasonably priced.
TSUCHIDA TakashiThat's why you should go fully prepared. If you're going to "Sonore," make sure you come with an empty stomach, expect it to take a full three and a half hours, and approach the dinner with your senses fully engaged. And I hope you'll savor every moment, paying attention to the wine and ingredients, with your mind working at full capacity.
HASEGAWA AyaI completely agree. Oirase Keiryu Hotel has many appealing activities, but I'd recommend doing those before "Sonore" and dedicating your time to this menu without worrying about the clock (laughs). We also enjoyed it for the full three and a half hours, and they said, "Most people take about this long."
TSUCHIDA TakashiI think "Sonore" is practically a half-day activity now.
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