Series | In Search of Taiwan's True Face: A Journey to Taichung (Part 1)
LOUNGE / TRAVEL
July 31, 2017

Series | In Search of Taiwan's True Face: A Journey to Taichung (Part 1)


Enjoy slow Taiwanese time in Taichung, a city that feels both friendly and nostalgic.


In Search of Taiwan's True Face: A Journey to Taichung (Part 1)


It's about a four-hour direct flight from Narita to Taoyuan Airport, Taiwan's gateway. Taiwan is a familiar travel destination, both in terms of travel time and cultural affinity. In 2016, approximately 1.9 million Japanese visited Taiwan. Many of them headed to Taipei, and the number of repeat Japanese visitors is increasing. The capital, Taipei, boasts many excellent Chinese restaurants, as well as the pleasure of street food like sweets and night market fare. Furthermore, with massage and shopping also available at friendly prices, it's no wonder people become fans after just one visit. If you've come to love Taiwan, we highly recommend venturing beyond Taipei. How about Taichung City in central Taiwan, for example? It's less than an hour from central Taipei by comfortable high-speed rail. Known for its mild climate with an average temperature of 23 degrees Celsius year-round, it's the city where Taiwanese most want to live. In Taichung, which is more rustic than the international capital, you can discover the true face of Taiwan—more approachable and somehow nostalgic.

Text by MAKIGUCHI June




Vol. 1: Architectural Exploration


Taichung holds an irresistible charm for architecture enthusiasts. The city reveals various facets depending on the area, from districts preserving historical Taiwanese landscapes to retro buildings from the Japanese colonial era and modern skyscrapers in developing areas. Among these, a particularly noteworthy new spot offers a chance to see buildings designed by a Japanese architect active on the world stage.

One such building is the National Taichung Theater, designed by Toyo Ito. Selected through a competition held in 2005, it was completed on September 30, 2016, after more than a decade of work. Amidst a landscape of inorganic modern architecture, its organic curves and harmony with greenery are striking. As befits an opera house, the acoustics are exceptional, and elements like flowing columns, curtains, and round windows evoke a sense of light and air. The high ceiling blends seamlessly with the walls, creating an impression of stepping into a cave, offering a gentle, enveloping sense of comfort. The concept of "the entire building as a theater" becomes even more vivid at night. The concrete and glass structure emits random light from within after dark. Beyond attending operas and concerts, the rooftop features a sky garden, shops, cafes, and restaurants, making it an ideal place to relax while enjoying an architectural stroll.

National Performing Arts Center

National Taichung Theater


National Performing Arts Center
National Taichung Theater
No. 101, Section 2, Huilai Road, Xitun District, Taichung City 40756
Opening Hours: Sunday - Thursday 11:30 - 21:00
Friday, Saturday, and Holidays 11:30 - 22:00
Phone: +886-4-2251-1777
http://www.npac-ntt.org/index


Another must-visit is the Asia University Museum of Modern Art, designed by Tadao Ando. The striking triangular motif is not only present in the exterior but is also repeatedly used inside for the ceiling, beams, openings, and stairs, allowing visitors to appreciate the building itself as a work of art. An exhibition dedicated to Tadao Ando is being held until December 31, 2020, making it a highly recommended destination for architecture fans. The museum shop, selling unique Taiwanese design goods, is also worth a visit.

Asia University Museum of Modern Art

Asia University Museum of Modern Art


Asia University Museum of Modern Art
No. 500, Liufeng Road, Wufeng District, Taichung City 41354
Phone: +886-4-2332-3456
E-MAIL: asiamodern@asia.edu.tw
Opening Hours: 9:30 - 17:00, Closed Mondays
Admission: NTD$250
http://asiamodern.asia.edu.tw/index.php


For those interested in traditional Taiwanese residences, the Wufeng Lin Family Mansion and Garden is a highly recommended destination, designated as a national historic site alongside Taichung Station. This is the former residence of one of Taiwan's "Five Great Families." Although it suffered damage in the earthquake of September 21, 1999, it has been partially restored and is now open to the public. Visitors can immerse themselves in traditional Taiwanese architectural styles and craftsmanship, admiring the elaborately decorated gates and walls, the meticulously arranged spacious gardens, and the banquet hall with its covered outdoor stage. It's a historic site where one can truly feel the wealth and prosperity of the Wufeng Lin family. It's also fascinating to observe how the architectural styles have evolved over time, from the Qing Dynasty to the present day. Later additions blend Chinese, Western, and Japanese influences in both the architecture and gardens. Japanese-language guided tours are available upon reservation.

Wufeng Lin Family Mansion and Garden

Wufeng Lin Family Mansion and Garden


Wufeng Lin Family Mansion and Garden
No. 26, Minsheng Road, Wufeng District, Taichung City
Phone: +886-4-2331-7985
Opening Hours: 9:00 - 17:00, Closed Mondays
Admission: NTD$250
http://wufenglins.com.tw/


Dajia Zhenlan Temple is one of Taiwan's most famous temples dedicated to Mazu, the goddess of the sea and fishermen. With a history spanning 285 years since a small shrine was first built during the Qing Dynasty, it is a significant site. The annual Mazu pilgrimage, held in the third lunar month, celebrates Mazu's birthday with a procession of palanquins and followers traveling over 340 km for nine days. This major religious event in Taiwan attracts about one million pilgrims and tourists from both Taiwan and abroad. Dajia Zhenlan Temple serves as the main stage for this pilgrimage. Its ornate decorations, both inside and out, including its traditional craftsmanship, are a must-see. Witnessing the continuous stream of worshippers and the towering piles of offerings is enough to understand its importance as a spiritual anchor for the Taiwanese people.

Dajia Zhenlan Temple

Dajia Zhenlan Temple


Dajia Zhenlan Temple
Address: No. 158, Shuntian Road, Dajia District
Phone: +886-4-2676-3522
Opening Hours: 06:00 - 21:30
http://www.dajiamazu.org.tw/index.aspx


For architectural exploration, the area around Taichung Station, which retains a strong atmosphere from the Japanese colonial era, is also not to be missed. Miyahara Ophthalmology stands out as a symbol of this area's stylish transformation. Despite its name, it is not a medical clinic. Originally established in 1927 by Dr. Takeo Miyahara, an ophthalmologist, the red-brick building, preserving its retro charm, has been renovated into a sweets shop offering ice cream, chocolates, cheesecakes, and more. The interior, with its high ceilings, spacious layout, towering wooden shelves, and long staircases, is a captivating blend of tradition and modernity. Even the packaging of the sweets is so stylish that it's a joy to behold, making it a great place to look for souvenirs.

Miyahara Ophthalmology

Miyahara Ophthalmology


Miyahara Ophthalmology
Address: No. 20, Zhongshan Road, Central District, Taichung City
Phone: +886-4-2227-1927
Opening Hours: 10:00 - 22:00, Open daily
http://www.miyahara.com.tw/en/index.html


Miyahara Ophthalmology also features a salon where you can enjoy tea and meals, making it a perfect spot to relax and take a break during your explorations. Our culinary exploration of Taichung will be covered in the latter part.

TRAVEL INFORMATION
● China Airlines offers convenient flights to Taiwan. They operate over 200 weekly flights from 15 cities in Japan, including Narita, to Taoyuan Airport. From Taoyuan Airport to Taichung City, it's about a 1 hour and 30-minute direct bus ride.
https://www.china-airlines.com/jp/jp


● "Taiwan Pass"
If you're traveling to Taichung, we recommend getting the "Taiwan Pass" for easier travel. This electronic ticket offers special discounts at various tourist attractions. It includes unlimited rides on over 200 bus routes within Taichung City. With this pass, you can enjoy various special offers and services locally. It can be purchased at the airport or convenience stores.
http://ct-pass.com/product/show/539?lang=ja