Six Chefs Convene Under the Theme of "Fusion"

Dining Out operates under the concept, "Discover more of Japan's hidden pleasures." It has been held seven times previously in various scenic locations across Japan, including Sado Island in Niigata Prefecture, Yaeyama Islands in Okinawa Prefecture, and Iya Valley in Miyoshi City, Tokushima Prefecture, as a pop-up outdoor restaurant open for just a few days.

While each event has offered participants a unique experience tailored to its theme, this time the theme was precisely "Fusion." Why was this theme chosen? Alex Kerr, the cultural critic who served as host for this event, explained that the reason lies in Onomichi's history.

Located at a crucial transportation hub near the center of the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi is bordered by the narrow, winding Onomichi Channel to the south and the three mountains of Onomichi—Mt. Senkoji, Mt. Saikokuji, and Mt. Jodoji—to the north. In the Heian period, this area was designated as a tax-exempt estate, and a port for shipping its rice harvest was established. This marked the beginning of Onomichi as a port town. Since then, it prospered through the medieval and early modern periods as a port of call for trading ships bound for Ming China and for the Kitamaebune vessels that plied the route between Hokkaido and Osaka.

Cultural critic Alex Kerr, who served as host.

Naoyo Ohashi, who produced the cuisine.

Given its geography, Onomichi has a long history of receiving people, goods, and cultures from outside, fostering its own unique world by embracing and integrating them. Inspired by this inherent DNA of "reception" and "integration," or "fusion," that has been passed down through generations in Onomichi, this outdoor restaurant was conceived to express "the cutting edge of fusion."

To bring this theme to life, Naoyo Ohashi was brought on board as the restaurant producer for this Dining Out event. Ohashi gained international acclaim after his restaurant "TIRPSE" in Shirokanedai, Tokyo, earned a Michelin star just two and a half months after opening—a world record. Ohashi assembled a team of five chefs and one pastry chef from Tokyo, Osaka, and Paris to create a meticulously crafted course menu using Onomichi's abundant local ingredients.

Participants enjoying the Onomichi landscape from the summit of Mt. Jodoji.

Amuse-bouche finger foods.

In Onomichi, the stage for this two-night restaurant was Jodoji Temple, the oldest temple in Onomichi and a designated National Treasure of Japan. Upon arrival in Onomichi, participants were welcomed by Naoyo Ohashi and Alex Kerr at the reception venue, the Jodoji Mountain Observatory. From this vantage point atop Mt. Jodoji, one of the three mountains of Onomichi, guests were served a champagne cocktail made with local blood oranges, grape juice from Hiroshima Prefecture's Miyoshi Winery, and three types of finger foods, marking the opening of "DINING OUT ONOMICHI with LEXUS."

From the Jodoji Mountain Observatory, a panoramic view unfolds: the Onomichi Channel, resembling a great river; the townscape of Onomichi nestled between mountains and the sea; and the scattered islands of the Seto Inland Sea. It was a moment to truly appreciate the beauty of this area, recognized as a Japan Heritage site for its "Horticultural city shaped by the Onomichi Channel since the Middle Ages." Gazing at the scenery woven by nature's artistry, anticipation for the dishes crafted from the region's ingredients naturally grew. Guests savored the magnificent view, champagne glasses in hand.

The Dinner Begins with Vintage Vinegar

Jodoji Temple, the venue for the dinner, is one of the most ancient temples in the Chugoku region, said to have been founded by Prince Shotoku. Its history is intertwined with pivotal moments in Japanese history, including Emperor Go-Daigo's prayers for peace and stability during the Genko War in the late Kamakura period, and Ashikaga Takauji's visit to pray for victory during the Nanboku-cho period.

Passing through the temple gate and entering the grounds, participants were greeted by the main hall at the front, the Amida Hall to the right, and Jodoji's Tahoto Pagoda, one of Japan's three great pagodas, standing as if in welcome. All were built between the late Kamakura and Nanboku-cho periods; the main hall and the pagoda are National Treasures, while the Amida Hall is an Important Cultural Property. Listening to Alex Kerr's explanations of the temple's history and architecture while gazing at a landscape that Ashikaga Takauji himself might have seen 700 years ago, one could feel a sense of the serene and solemn time that must have flowed then.

Participants were led inside the Amida Hall, where they were introduced to the temple's principal image, the seated statue of Amida Buddha, and received explanations about Jodoji's main icons and structures from the head priest. Afterward, they were guided to the Hojo (abbot's quarters) and the guest hall, which served as the dinner venue. Both are adjacent spaces designated as Important Cultural Properties; the former is reportedly where the Imperial family stays when visiting Onomichi.

"Japan" by Daiki Ishida of "Shin-paku."

"China" by Koji Higashi of "Chi-Fu."

As dusk settled, the garden facing the dinner venue and the tea house, Rotekian, situated on the rock garden behind it, were illuminated, drawing participants into an extraordinary temporal and spatial experience. "We hope you will enjoy the theme of fusion through the creations of six chefs, inspired by Onomichi's ingredients and its rich history and culture, filtered through my perspective," said Naoyo Ohashi in his opening remarks, officially commencing the main event of Dining Out.

To begin the aperitif, Ohashi presented a vintage vinegar, a cherished family heirloom for over 60 years, from Onomichi Suzu, a company that has been producing vinegar in the region since the 1500s. Served warm to combat the chilly evening air, its refined flavor and elegant aroma filled the mouth with steam, leaving a memorable impression.

The first dish, named "Japan," was then served. Created by Daiki Ishida, owner of "Shin-paku," a restaurant specializing in aged sushi in Hiroo, Tokyo, it featured two types of oysters—European and Hiroshima varieties—along with tempura of aged conger eel. The dish was presented in an Arita ware vessel, reportedly unearthed from an archaeological site in Onomichi, as a tribute to the previous Dining Out event held in Arita, Saga Prefecture.

"France" by Sota Atsumi of "Clown Bar."

Wines, sake, and beers selected by Ohashi to complement the dishes were also served.

The second dish, "China," was by Koji Higashi, chef at the modern Chinese restaurant "Chi-Fu" in Osaka. To represent the diverse food cultures of the Shimanami Islands, he incorporated wild vegetables and fruits from various islands into a mugwort crepe. The third dish, "France," was presented by Sota Atsumi, chef at "Clown Bar" in Paris. It consisted of grilled tomatoes served with puff pastry, designed to be enjoyed together.

After the third dish, a brief intermission was taken. Alex Kerr provided an engaging explanation of the Hojo and guest hall, the dinner venues, detailing their architectural styles and furnishings. Thus, the special dinner, satisfying both the palate and intellectual curiosity, progressed at a leisurely pace.

A Drive to Re-experience the Special Dinner Through All Senses

The fourth dish, "Okonomiyaki," which opened the second half of the meal, was prepared by Yoshio Nakagawa of the okonomiyaki restaurant "Pasemiya" in Osaka, featuring a refined flavor based on wild vegetables andボタン鍋 (boar meat). The fifth dish, "Bouillabaisse," was by Kotaro Meguro, chef at the French restaurant "Abysse" in Gaienmae, Tokyo. He used "debera," a dried flatfish traditional to Hiroshima, to create a bouillabaisse. For the sixth dish, "Spring," Sota Atsumi of "Clown Bar" returned, tenderizing local gamecock in cold spring water from Jodoji Temple's well to draw out the ingredient's natural umami and sweetness.

"Okonomiyaki" by Yoshio Nakagawa of "Pasemiya."

"Bouillabaisse" by Kotaro Meguro of "Abysse."

The two dessert courses, "Pasture" and "Blossom," which concluded the dinner, were crafted by Juriko Nakamura, the pastry chef at "TIRPSE." Both the panna cotta in "Pasture" and the strawberry dessert in "Blossom" featured delicate and refined flavors that highlighted local ingredients, deepening the lingering enjoyment of the meal.

The six chefs, each interpreting and expressing the concept of "fusion" with contemporary sensibility, presented their dishes in an exquisitely detailed and elegant setting. Immersed in the unhurried flow of time, participants savored each creation. This profoundly moving and special experience, where Onomichi's unique harmony of nature, history, and culture unfolded, quietly drew to a close.

"Spring" by Sota Atsumi of "Clown Bar."

"Blossom" by Juriko Nakamura of "TIRPSE."

The following day, participants were offered the "LEXUS Driving Program," where they could drive various Lexus models around the Onomichi area. The author enjoyed a four-hour round trip drive to Imabari, Wakayama Prefecture, along the Shimanami Kaido, which connects the beautiful islands of the Seto Inland Sea, in the sporty coupe "RC F".

It was a journey filled with the joy of re-experiencing, through one's own senses, the history and culture of Onomichi that Alex Kerr had spoken of the previous day, the beautiful scenery of sea, mountains, and islands admired from the Jodoji Mountain Observatory, and the wonderful nature that nurtures the finest ingredients.

"I believe that Japan's unique charms are more deeply rooted in its regions than in its urban centers. However, for the local people, these are part of their daily lives, and they may not fully recognize their appeal. For regional revitalization, it is most important that they take pride in the places where they live.
Through Dining Out, I want to continue collaborating with people in each region to help each other recognize the splendors of their respective areas and to share them with the world."

Participants enjoyed a drive around Onomichi in various Lexus models.

Tomoki Oonoki, representative of ONESTORY, the organizer of Dining Out, shared these thoughts at the dinner venue. As someone involved in media, and indeed as a Japanese national, I wholeheartedly support this initiative. Driving back from Onomichi, gazing at the charming, old-fashioned townscape from the car window, I felt this sentiment strongly.

DINING OUT
Launched in 2012 under the theme "Discover more of Japan's hidden pleasures," it is a premium outdoor restaurant that opens for just a few days each time in various locations across Japan. It has previously been held in Sado, Niigata; Yaeyama, Okinawa; Iya, Tokushima; Takeda, Oita; Nihondaira, Shizuoka; and Arita, Saga. Information regarding the timing and location of the next event will be announced on the official website as it becomes available. http://www.onestory-media.jp