OK for a day trip from Tokyo. A premium sake experience offered by "Nagai Shuzo," a trendsetter in the sake world | FEATURE
FEATURE | Nagai Sake Brewery
Finally Here! Immerse Yourself in the Terroir of "Mizubasho" and Revel in Tastings at the New Complex, "SHINKA"
Amidst a rapidly changing sake industry, Nagai Shuzo stands out as a trendsetter, constantly capturing attention. The brewery has now completed its new complex, "SHINKA." Located on the grounds of Nagai Shuzo in Kawaba Village, Gunma Prefecture, this is an exclusive, small-group space featuring a tasting room and a brewing research laboratory (LABO). Before your eyes, you'll see the picturesque rice paddies where "Yukihotaka," Kawaba Village's prized, elusive rice, is cultivated, allowing you to truly experience the terroir of Kawaba Village. This is the perfect destination not only for Nagai Shuzo fans but for anyone wanting to witness the forefront of premium Japanese sake that is gaining global recognition.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Undoubtedly, This is the Cutting Edge of Sake Culture!
Nagai Shuzo is the creator of the hugely successful brand "Mizubasho." It's no exaggeration to say that one cannot discuss delicious modern Japanese sake without mentioning "Mizubasho." Just recently, they released an exceptionally outstanding limited cuvée from SAKEHUNDRED, generating considerable buzz.
Sparkling Japanese sake with noble, fine bubbles, achieved through secondary fermentation in the bottle, akin to Champagne. While several breweries now produce these precious "sparkling sakes," Nagai Noriyoshi, the current brewery owner of Nagai Shuzo, was an early pioneer in establishing the know-how. After training in Champagne, France, Noriyoshi succeeded in adapting the Champagne method to Japanese sake.
On the left is Noriyoshi Nagai, the brewery owner of Nagai Shuzo. On the right is his wife, Matsumi Nagai, who handles marketing and PR.
He also founded the awa-shu Association, sharing some of his accumulated expertise to recruit fellow enthusiasts of in-bottle secondary fermented sake. This has led to awa-shu (sparkling sake) being recognized globally and used for toasts at prestigious events. In essence, Nagai Shuzo is the pioneer of awa-shu, and their signature brand, "MIZUBASHO PURE," is listed in renowned restaurants worldwide.
Another area Noriyoshi Nagai is passionate about is aging sake. The aforementioned SAKEHUNDRED "Reihi" is also an aged sake.
However, this aging process involves long-term maturation at sub-zero temperatures of -3 to -5°C. Wine cellars typically operate around 15°C, requiring entirely different equipment. By lowering the temperature to near freezing, or a chilled state, the aging speed of sake dramatically slows, allowing for a gradual and extended maturation process over many years, not just two or three, but over a decade. This is the philosophy behind carefully aging the delicate flavors of Japanese sake.
Nagai reportedly arrived at this concept inspired by Montrachet in Burgundy, France. Aging causes the Maillard reaction in sake, but Nagai Shuzo meticulously controls the temperature to achieve their desired sake quality. His ability to adapt the principles of wine aging to sake is a remarkable feat of imagination and execution! The time has finally come for his vision to be fully realized (young Noriyoshi Nagai invested in sub-zero storage cellars based on this conviction, and the time to test the results of that aging is precisely now. Its exceptional deliciousness and the correctness of Nagai's foresight have already been proven with SAKEHUNDRED's limited releases).
Thanks in part to Nagai Shuzo's initiatives, the sake industry is at a major turning point. Nagai is now co-founding and actively involved with the Koku Sake (Toki Sake) Association, along with other breweries, to transform aged sake into a significant movement. I believe that research into aged sake will continue to advance, leading to a diverse range of mellow and profound sake flavors. We are living in a time when a monumental step in sake history is unfolding.
As a sake enthusiast, I apologize for my excessive excitement.
The "SHINKA" tasting space. With the windows open, a pleasant breeze flows through. Adjacent to it is an open-air terrace with sofas.
Top: Pork fillet marinated in sake lees. Bottom left: Summer vegetable sablé with white miso. Bottom right: Yukihotaka cold soup violet. All are original dishes created by Yuka Macaron to pair with Mizubasho.
Now, to the main point: Nagai Shuzo has opened its new complex, "SHINKA." Here, you can taste Nagai Shuzo's signature sparkling and aged sakes, as well as "LABO SAKE" developed in the adjacent brewing research laboratory. Furthermore, the pairing menu (additional charge) offered during tastings was conceived by the acclaimed food producer Yuka Macaron. You can enjoy amuse-bouches curated by Macaron, centered around the theme of fermentation, with guidance from the brewery staff. The flavors created for "Mizubasho" perfectly complement the sake, leaving us deeply impressed.
The LABO space is located behind the marked area.
And that's not all! Regarding the "LABO SAKE" from the brewing laboratory (LABO), it's incredibly exciting because Nagai's innovative experimental brews are offered in minimal batches (1/100th the scale of regular brewing). Moreover, it will soon be possible to contract for these avant-garde experimental brews. You can purchase a tank of sake, have it aged in Nagai Shuzo's sub-zero storage cellar, and then have it released at an appropriate time... Isn't this exactly like "primeurs" in Bordeaux, France! This system will foster deeper dialogue between breweries and sake lovers, accelerating the evolution of Japanese sake. Even if you can't afford to buy an entire tank yourself, it seems possible to do so by pooling resources with others. The possibilities are truly expanding.
Therefore, we highly recommend visiting "SHINKA" first. To reach Nagai Shuzo, alight at Jomokogen Station on the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo, approximately one hour away. From the station, it's about a 30-minute drive. With advance reservation, they offer a shuttle service from Nagai Shuzo's dedicated vehicle.
Item 1 included with invitation: "THE MIZUBASHO PURE 2008"
Product Type: Sparkling Aged Sake
Price: ¥33,000 (tax included)
Limited Quantity: 180 bottles
This is a very rare 2008 vintage of "MIZUBASHO PURE," the in-bottle secondary fermented sake that brought Nagai Shuzo widespread fame.
Item 2 included with invitation: "MIZUBASHO VINTAGE 2008 Daiginjo"
Product Type: Daiginjo Aged Sake
Price: ¥19,800 (tax included)
Limited Quantity: 350 bottles
Aged Daiginjo with a lighter body due to alcohol fortification. It possesses a unique quality where crispness and mellowness miraculously coexist. Personally, I find this flavor profile particularly appealing.
Item 3 included with invitation: "MIZUBASHO VINTAGE 2008"
Product Type: Junmai Daiginjo Aged Sake
Price: ¥39,600 (tax included)
Limited Quantity: 600 bottles
The pinnacle of the series, this is aged Junmai Daiginjo. Even as a Junmai sake, the rice is polished to Daiginjo standards, and given "Mizubasho's" inherently crisp profile, its clarity is exceptional.
However, an invitation is currently required to visit "SHINKA." An invitation is included with the purchase of any one of the three aged sake products that have been on limited sale since August 1, 2023. You then apply via the QR code on the invitation to arrange your visit. Although it is a paid experience, with only one group per day, it offers an ultra-premium sake experience where you can invite friends and participate without worrying about other guests.
Overall view of Nagai Shuzo.
While we recommend staying overnight in Kawaba Village, Gunma Prefecture, to fully enjoy the local terroir, the travel time from Tokyo is only about 1 hour and 30 minutes one way, making a day trip from Tokyo entirely feasible. Given that this premium sake experience is bound to be highly popular, those who are interested should make plans to visit as soon as possible.
