Since opening its first French restaurant in Nishi-Azabu in 1982, HIRAMATSU has been dedicated to "providing enriching experiences through food," expanding into various ventures including grand restaurants, brasseries, cafes, and wedding services. Currently, the company operates 33 restaurants nationwide. In 2016, it launched resort hotels with the theme of "restaurants you can stay at," and in 2020, opened its first urban hotel in Kyoto, attracting attention both domestically and internationally. On March 16, 2021, "THE HIRAMATSU Karuizawa Miyota" (hereafter referred to as HIRAMATSU Miyota), surrounded by the majestic nature at the foot of Mount Asama in Nagano Prefecture, opened its doors. This marks the sixth hotel under the HIRAMATSU brand and is positioned as its flagship property. We sense the beginning of a new story for a leading Japanese hotel here.

HIRAMATSU Miyota embraces the concept of a "Grand Auberge in the Forest." A grand auberge is HIRAMATSU's new proposal for hotel stays, transforming the entire journey from beginning to end into a full-course experience.

Leading the kitchen is Chef Teruo Yanagihara, who honed his skills at "Restaurant HIRAMATSU Hiroo" and "Maison Paul Bocuse," and served as head chef at "Restaurant HIRAMATSU Reserve" in Nishi-Azabu. When the plans for HIRAMATSU Miyota were conceived, he was immediately appointed as the head chef for the facility. For the past two years, he has been visiting local producers and exploring regional ingredients.

"In East Shinshu, a diverse range of ingredients are available, with the 'season' changing weekly. I encounter ingredients that are produced in small quantities, don't make it to Tokyo, and that I've never used before. It's endlessly fascinating and never gets boring."

"When sending Nagano ingredients to Tokyo, it takes one to two days from harvest to delivery at the restaurant. But here, I can cook freshly picked vegetables just a few hours later. The distance to producers is short, and I can even visit their fields. I can confidently present ingredients I believe in to our guests." (Chef Yanagihara)

From his many "masterpieces," we asked him to select two dishes. First, a meat dish served in the main dining room. It features "Shinshu Premium Beef," produced by "Makiba Minemura" in Higashi-Chikuma City, about a 20-minute drive from Miyota.

According to Chef Yanagihara, "It has a good balance of lean meat and marbling, with rich flavor in the lean meat. Although it has a high fat content, it's light and high quality. However, production is limited, and much of it is consumed within the prefecture." This beef is slow-cooked at a low temperature with the aroma of Binchotan charcoal to prevent it from becoming tough.

Furthermore, the cut served is "ichibo," a rare part known for its exquisite juiciness and perfect amount of fat. It has a satisfying chewiness yet melts away with just a few bites, leaving a clean, lingering aftertaste without any heaviness.

The accompanying seasonal vegetables were as impressive as the meat itself. During our visit, they were served with Jerusalem artichokes harvested locally, "paired with fava beans and green peas, which complement it well, and radicchio (Italian chicory) from the local area."

The fish dish, on the other hand, features a large char weighing 1.5 kilograms. As Nagano Prefecture has no coastline, HIRAMATSU Miyota actively uses "river fish" raised in the pristine waters of Shinshu.

"River fish can become poor in quality if the water isn't good, but this char is farmed in natural mountain water. As a result, it has no off-flavors and its flesh is firm. It was cooked using an indirect heat method in a convection oven."

"River fish don't have much fat. If cooked with intense heat all at once, they can become tough, so we cook them slowly and gently to maintain a moist texture."

Chef Yanagihara's cooking technique is incredibly delicate! The fish is thoroughly cooked yet retains its moisture. The seasoning is browned butter, enhanced with a sauce made from reduced veal stock, and "plated to evoke the image of water." This exquisite dish, featuring fish raised in pure water, is meant to be savored not just with the palate, but with all senses – sight, smell, and more.

The boldness of pairing delicate white fish with rich local vegetables, all brought together by the richness of butter, is a testament to Chef Yanagihara's presence in Miyota. Savoring this dish alone makes the journey worthwhile.