"To prioritize the safety and security of the body, and to disregard the life or death of the soul or spirit, is wrong." – This is a serialized essay by Yasutake Ijichi, former board member of Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store. This installment focuses on "Tendon," a historic soul food of Japan.

Tempura originated in the Muromachi period, believed to have been introduced from Portugal as Nanban cuisine. At that time, oil was a luxury, making tempura an unattainable delicacy for commoners. It wasn't until the Edo period, when oil production became abundant, that tempura stalls began to appear, and along with sushi and unagi, it became a soul food deeply ingrained in the lives of ordinary people. While there are various theories about the birth of Tendon, it's generally accepted that it had become a commoner's food by the Meiji era.

Indeed, tempura, sushi, and unagi, while now perceived as high-end cuisine, were originally fast food for the masses. Their establishment as luxury dishes largely occurred after the Meiji period with the advent of high-class restaurants and specialty shops. For tempura, I love enjoying sake with dishes like kuruma ebi, chironaga, or fukinoto, fried one by one by chefs behind the counter. However, that experience is entirely different from eating tendon. Tendon, the fast food of the common people, is meant to be held with both hands and devoured with gusto.

I've always loved tendon. The "Imoya" in Jinbocho, where my father took me as a child, is etched in my memory as the epitome of original fast food. In junior high and high school, after school, my friends and I would go not to McDonald's or Yoshinoya, but to Tenya. The shock of tasting the Edo-mae tendon, flavored with sesame oil, at "Dote no Iseya" for the first time in college is also unforgettable.

Tendon is currently a strong contender for my go-to lunch when I'm hungry. Ideally, I'd like to keep it within ¥1,000, or at most ¥1,500. After all, it's a fast food beloved by the common people, which could be eaten for just 3 yen in the Meiji era. I often frequent places like "Iseya" in Kuramae, "Hachimaki" in Jinbocho, "Yatsuteya" in Kanda, and "Mitsumura" in Nishi-Shimbashi. This time, however, I want to introduce places outside of my usual haunts – places that, while perhaps not strictly "fast food" or "tendon specialty shops," embody that spirit in various ways and are worth visiting.

1. Tensenn, 1-23-6 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
With a counter and a few table seats, you can watch the owner meticulously fry each piece up close. While it might not fit the typical definition of fast-food tendon, I personally feel compelled to recommend it. The lunch tendon at Edogawabashi Tensenn is, I believe, ¥1,200, and the quality is far beyond what you'd expect for the price. The ingredients are plentiful, the portions are generous, yet the oil isn't heavy, the sauce has just the right amount of moisture, and a sliver of yuzu peel adds a perfect balance.

At this price point, the quality feels less like a business and more like charity or social contribution. I rarely have a reason to be in Edogawabashi, but since I sometimes visit Gokurakuji or Iidabashi, I often stop by before or after.

2. Hiroo Tomoya, 5-1-42 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
This establishment isn't primarily a tendon or tempura restaurant; it's a soba shop. However, as one theory suggests that tendon originated in Meiji-era soba restaurants in Shimbashi, soba and tempura are closely linked, and a soba restaurant that serves delicious tempura undoubtedly serves delicious soba.

Tomoya is located on Meiji Dori, which connects Ebisu and Tenganji Bridge, just before the entrance to the Hiroo shopping street (closer to Ebisu). When I walk past in the morning, the fragrant aroma of sesame oil wafts from inside, whetting my appetite. I always think, the way sesame oil stimulates the appetite is almost unfair. Despite being in Hiroo, Tomoya's menu is mostly under ¥1,000, with the tendon likely around ¥900. They don't compromise on quality for the price; two large shrimp are generously piled on. It's served shortly after ordering, and I highly recommend savoring the everyday satisfaction you can get here in about 15 minutes.

3. Tendon Fuji, Daiwa Sangyo Bldg. 1F, 1-28-6 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
Located at the north exit (west exit) of Ikebukuro, Tendon Fuji is a prime example of a fast-food tendon establishment. Ikebukuro North Exit is known for its red-light district, but it also boasts many other charming and delicious places, such as the coffee shop "Hakushaku," the motsuyaki restaurant "Sanpuku," and the Chinese eatery "Shinchinmi," not to mention the flavorful spots around the station.

If you emerge from the North Exit with your libido running high, it's advisable to stop for 2 seconds and eat first. Libido and appetite are linked; the secondary sexual desire center, responsible for male sexual function, is located near the feeding center that stimulates appetite. Satisfying your appetite might reduce the risk of wasting unproductive time and money on fulfilling your sexual desires.

Tendon is the best choice to satisfy your appetite. Tendon Fuji is rumored to have been founded in Taisho 13 (1924). The tendon is ¥800. The interior, with its few counter seats, is compact. However, the confidence in their quality is evident from the kitchen visible through the glass. It's served within minutes of ordering. It's crispy and crunchy, generously coated in a rich sauce that goes perfectly with rice. What's most convenient is that they are open continuously from 11:00 AM until evening, allowing you to satisfy your hunger whenever you please, even outside of typical lunch hours.

Brown foods are a godsend when you're hungry. While there are many brown dishes like fried chicken, tonkatsu, curry rice, and ramen, tendon is in a league of its own. First, the aroma engages the senses, then the visual presentation upon arrival sets the mood. The crisp sound as it enters your mouth shifts gears, and the gradually spreading umami and sweetness propel you into top gear. Only tendon offers such a sequence of experiences. For less than ¥1,000 and in just over 10 minutes, the enjoyment derived from tendon makes it a standout among fast foods.

Yasutake Ijichi
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While studying at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and retired at age 30. With his representative, a friend since junior high school for over 20 years, he participated in the launch of Sunshine Juice, Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, and served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communication and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
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