The Day French-Trained SAKE Conquers the World | WAKAZE
WAKAZE | ワカゼ
Interview with Takuma Inagawa, Representative Director and CEO of WAKAZE Inc.
With a vision to make "Japanese sake a global beverage," WAKAZE is crafting innovative sake that garners worldwide attention, while honoring traditional brewing methods. In 2020, they launched a sake brewed at a brewery near Paris, using Parisian water and rice, specifically for French consumers. It quickly became a top-selling brand, boasting the number one market share.
Photographs by Kaku Ohtaki | Text by Yoko Koizumi | Edit by Takashi Tsuchida
Brewing Traditional Japanese Sake in the Heart of Global Gastronomy
Takuma Inagawa, Representative Director and CEO of WAKAZE, had always aspired to start his own business and engage in Japanese manufacturing abroad, much like his grandfather. His focus on Japanese sake was straightforward: "Because it was delicious."
"Until then, I couldn't even tell the difference between sake and shochu. I thought it was just high in alcohol and not very tasty. Even after starting my career, I avoided it, but one day I encountered an exceptionally delicious sake. It had a fruitiness that surpassed even wine, and I felt a strong desire to share this revelation with the world!"
When asked why he chose France as his base, he replied, "Because France is the center of global trends."
"France is, in a sense, the epicenter of food culture. What becomes popular in Paris tends to spread globally, and people in Europe, America, and Asia continue to hold Paris in high regard. Furthermore, top global brands like Hermès and Louis Vuitton are based in France. I wanted to build our brand in the very heart of where global trends originate."
Another factor was alcohol consumption in France, according to Inagawa.
"The French consume twice as much alcohol as the Japanese. While the population is about half that of Japan, France has a market size comparable to Japan's. Moreover, France has the most people who love Japan in Europe. I saw France as having potential due to its large market and a significant number of Japanophiles."
Takuma Inagawa (born 1988) is the Representative Director and CEO of WAKAZE Inc. While studying at Keio University, he spent two years in Paris at Ecole Central Paris as a recipient of a French government scholarship. After working as a strategy consultant at the Boston Consulting Group, he founded WAKAZE Inc. in 2016. He moved to France in 2019 and now leads the brewery in Paris.
Additionally, Inagawa had experience studying in France, which provided him with local knowledge and a network that further encouraged his venture. However, Inagawa himself had no prior experience in sake brewing. It was then that he met his co-founder and Chief Brewing Officer, Shoya Imai. Imai, the third son of the family behind the over 100-year-old Seishu Brewery in Gunma Prefecture, possessed extensive knowledge of brewing and had gained experience at renowned sake breweries across Japan.
"As the third son, he wasn't obligated to take over the family business, and he also had a desire to work abroad. So, we decided, 'Let's start, even if it's small!"
This was in 2016.
Edible rice is cultivated in the south of France.
Brewing with French Rice and Ultra-Hard Water
Initially, WAKAZE began by exporting sake brewed in Japan to France. However, this resulted in the sake being prohibitively expensive. Inagawa reflects that costs beyond manufacturing, such as tariffs and fees, became a significant hurdle.
"We wanted to democratize Japanese sake."
Inagawa's goal of "democratizing Japanese sake" meant making it accessible for everyday consumption, akin to table wine. To establish sake as a global beverage, it needed to become more casual. Furthermore, the taste had to be refined to suit consumption at home parties, a common practice in France, much like wine.
These aspirations became a reality in 2019 with the establishment of the brewery "KURA GRAND PARIS" in Paris.
The "WAKAZE" brewed here is characterized by four key elements: • Made from edible rice (Camargue rice) produced in the south of France • Low polishing ratio (90% rice polishing) • Brewed with ultra-hard water (approximately four times harder than Tokyo's) • Uses local wine yeast
"Traditional Japanese sake brewing relies on rice polished to a high degree (with the outer layers removed), like in Ginjo sake, and soft, pure water. Our approach in France is the complete opposite. However, it was precisely this 'hard water brewing method' (※) that allowed us to create a flavor profile appealing to the French palate."
※ This term contrasts with the 'soft water brewing method' that catalyzed the spread of sake brewing across Japan. The soft water method was developed about 100 years ago in Hiroshima by Senzaburo Miura. Previously, sake brewing flourished only in hard water regions like Nada. This method was created to enable delicious sake production even in soft water areas like Hiroshima, eventually spreading nationwide and forming the foundation of modern sake brewing. WAKAZE's endeavor in France represents a potential turning point in brewing techniques, aiming to expand the regions where sake can be produced once the method is established.
The brewery "KURA GRAND PARIS"
The brewery "KURA GRAND PARIS"
The brewery "KURA GRAND PARIS"
The brewery "KURA GRAND PARIS"
The brewery "KURA GRAND PARIS"
Brewed with French rice and ultra-hard water, "WAKAZE" is characterized by a refreshing acidity, reminiscent of white wine. It also possesses a mineral quality that lends depth to its flavor. Inagawa analyzes that this makes it a perfect pairing for everything from appetizers to rich Western dishes.
"Despite this, we didn't receive high praise in the first year, and we made improvements in the second. Our strength lies in designing the taste based on consumer needs and being able to quickly reflect those changes."
Priced at 19.5 euros (approximately 2,500 yen) per bottle, it is affordably positioned within France. Its versatile flavor profile, suitable for a wide range of dishes, makes it enjoyable without becoming tiresome, and it has proven particularly useful for home parties.
"THE CLASSIC," WAKAZE's standard bottle, is made with French rice and brewed with French ultra-hard water. It is also available for purchase in Japan through e-commerce sites and at Seijo Ishii stores. Price: 2,500 yen (tax included).
MASTERED IN JAPAN, MADE IN FRANCE
Launched in 2020, "WAKAZE" at KURA GRAND PARIS quickly gained popularity, becoming the number one brand in the French sake market with a rapid growth that captured one-third of its share. Currently, production struggles to keep up with demand. The company aims to capture 1% of the French wine market, estimated at 20 trillion yen.
"While most purchases are made online, our repeat purchase rate within six months of the initial buy is 50%. We are confident that this is a figure unmatched by competitors."
The comments section is filled with evaluations like "Surprisingly delicious!" Inagawa smiles, "We want to keep surprising people, so we develop new products every month." Indeed, they have created over 70 new varieties, each leading to the acquisition of new customers.
"In Japan, adding flavor to sake would disqualify it as sake. However, here, there's no preconceived notion, so as long as it's delicious, people will enjoy it 'as sake.' This openness allows us to continue creating new products, which is a key factor in our success."
He adds with a wry smile that other positive feedback includes "The bottles didn't break!" and "Delivery was fast!"
"What is considered standard in Japan is not necessarily so here. There's a significant difference, especially in how packages are handled. Therefore, we thoroughly re-evaluated our packaging materials and developed our own secure and reliable packing method."
WAKAZE's original case, made from cardboard, is not only stylish but also highly durable.
From an ecological perspective, no plastic is used in any of the packaging materials, and consideration is given to local sourcing. He continues, stating their motto is to respond to all inquiries, questions, orders, and feedback received online within the same day.
"We conclude our messages with 'Team Omotenashi.' We believe it's important not just to sell sake, but for customers to experience Japanese culture through our delivery, packaging, and customer service."
At KURA GRAND PARIS, established in 2019, individuals from six countries, including the Czech Republic and Italy, are currently learning the art of sake brewing.
"Becoming the industry's number one is not WAKAZE's ultimate goal. Our objective is to increase the number of players involved in sake and broaden the industry's reach. We aim to attract more drinkers by creating new types of sake, and we hope that those learning at our brewery will return to their home countries and start their own brewing ventures. We want WAKAZE to be a place that opens doors for both drinkers and brewers, allowing them to leverage their experiences in their next endeavors."
And this past May, the IZAKAYA restaurant "WAKAZE PARIS" opened in Paris. The primary focus here, too, is on allowing customers to experience and engage with Japanese sake.
"Although the seating capacity is limited, our goal is to provide each individual with a profound experience, transforming them into sake ambassadors."
With a list of 700 reservations before opening, the popularity of WAKAZE in France is evident. This restaurant is also expected to broaden the appeal of Japanese sake.
The IZAKAYA restaurant "WAKAZE PARIS" in Paris
The IZAKAYA restaurant "WAKAZE PARIS" in Paris
The IZAKAYA restaurant "WAKAZE PARIS" in Paris
The IZAKAYA restaurant "WAKAZE PARIS" in Paris
The IZAKAYA restaurant "WAKAZE PARIS" in Paris
"We always say, 'MASTERED IN JAPAN, MADE IN FRANCE.' We learn traditional methods in Japan, use local French ingredients, produce it locally, and deliver it to local people—we value both tradition and innovation, and perhaps it's the synergy of these elements that resonates with our customers. It took time to establish this flow, but we are finally beginning to see significant growth. We aim to continue expanding WAKAZE through the combination of tradition and innovation."
