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March 10, 2022
Essay Series | Musings of #ijichiman: "Japanese Bistro, 'Taishu Sakaba'"
Essay Series | Musings of #ijichiman
No. 32: "Japanese Bistro, 'Taishu Sakaba'"
Defining a "taishu sakaba" is tricky. A Google search yields: "A bar that is inexpensive, with casual food, and a relaxed atmosphere." By that definition, large chain restaurants in basements, conveyor belt sushi joints in entertainment districts, and touristy bar streets could all be considered taishu sakaba. But that's not what I want to talk about here.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
My image of a taishu sakaba is a "Japanese bistro." Google defines bistro as: "A bar where you can enjoy casual French food with a drink." Therefore, a Japanese bistro would be "a bar where you can enjoy casual Japanese cuisine with a drink." The key here isn't the casualness, but whether the food served can truly be called Japanese cuisine.
Furthermore, my subjective criteria are as follows:
① Satisfied with food and drink for under ¥5,000
It's hard to significantly exceed expectations with a ¥3,000 spend on food and drink. If you're willing to spend ¥7,000-¥8,000, you might as well go somewhere else. The ¥5,000 mark is the sweet spot: it's unlikely to disappoint, yet offers the possibility of exceeding expectations.
① Satisfied with food and drink for under ¥5,000
It's hard to significantly exceed expectations with a ¥3,000 spend on food and drink. If you're willing to spend ¥7,000-¥8,000, you might as well go somewhere else. The ¥5,000 mark is the sweet spot: it's unlikely to disappoint, yet offers the possibility of exceeding expectations.
② The otoshi (appetizer) is unique and delicious (has character and a distinct point of view)
The adage that if the otoshi is good, everything else will be too, applies not just to bars but to dining out in general. A unique otoshi also makes it easier to decide what to order from the menu.
The adage that if the otoshi is good, everything else will be too, applies not just to bars but to dining out in general. A unique otoshi also makes it easier to decide what to order from the menu.
③ The cuisine isn't specialized in one particular genre (everything is just good)
At a drinker's table, you want sashimi, motsuyaki, nuta, nimono, tempura, and fried chicken. You want to try a little bit of everything. For example, if the oden at an oden bar is bad, you'll never go back. But if there's no single specialty, you can enjoy a variety of dishes. "Enjoy" doesn't mean every dish has to be outstanding. At a high-end restaurant, a meticulously prepared frog dish might elicit a lukewarm "It tastes a bit like chicken," or a creative, innovative dish might be met with a flat "Hmm, it's just good." In a bar setting, however, such dishes can spark conversation like, "Oh, they have this too?" adding to the lively atmosphere and making the experience enjoyable.
At a drinker's table, you want sashimi, motsuyaki, nuta, nimono, tempura, and fried chicken. You want to try a little bit of everything. For example, if the oden at an oden bar is bad, you'll never go back. But if there's no single specialty, you can enjoy a variety of dishes. "Enjoy" doesn't mean every dish has to be outstanding. At a high-end restaurant, a meticulously prepared frog dish might elicit a lukewarm "It tastes a bit like chicken," or a creative, innovative dish might be met with a flat "Hmm, it's just good." In a bar setting, however, such dishes can spark conversation like, "Oh, they have this too?" adding to the lively atmosphere and making the experience enjoyable.
Good bars are often full after 6 PM, so I like to start earlier, around 5 PM. Now, for today's recommendations.
1. Kaneda, 1-11-4 Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
A renowned establishment with over 80 years of history in Jiyugaoka, it's one of Tokyo's premier bars. While Jiyugaoka has an image of being chic, the area behind the station (North Exit) is a bustling street lined with beloved long-standing eateries like the Chinese restaurant "Baika" and the eel restaurant "Hosakaya," cherished by locals and visitors alike.
A renowned establishment with over 80 years of history in Jiyugaoka, it's one of Tokyo's premier bars. While Jiyugaoka has an image of being chic, the area behind the station (North Exit) is a bustling street lined with beloved long-standing eateries like the Chinese restaurant "Baika" and the eel restaurant "Hosakaya," cherished by locals and visitors alike.
Stepping through the tasteful noren curtain, the first floor has a U-shaped counter, while the second floor offers tables and tatami seating. From sashimi and vinegared dishes to simmered and steamed items, grilled fare, and a daily changing menu, everything is impeccably prepared and hits the right notes for any sake lover. It has the lively, spirited atmosphere of a bar, but it's never noisy, and you won't find patrons getting excessively drunk. It's a place that teaches the art of drinking like a discerning adult.
2. Yamariki, 1-14-6 Morishita, Koto-ku, Tokyo
A legendary establishment in Morishita for over 90 years, it stands as a landmark alongside the cherry blossom hot pot restaurant "Minoya" next door. Morishita, incidentally, is served by the Oedo and Toei Shinjuku subway lines, and is located across the Sumida River (to the east).
A legendary establishment in Morishita for over 90 years, it stands as a landmark alongside the cherry blossom hot pot restaurant "Minoya" next door. Morishita, incidentally, is served by the Oedo and Toei Shinjuku subway lines, and is located across the Sumida River (to the east).
Yamariki is a famous establishment, often mentioned alongside "Ohashi" in Kitasenju and "Kishidaya" in Tsukishima as one of Tokyo's top three for simmered dishes. Ordering the garlic toast is apparently a must, and it is indeed delicious. However, beyond the simmered dishes, everything here is exceptional. The overall composition of the menu and the taste of each dish subtly blend Japanese and Western influences in a harmonious way. The cooking methods and seasoning are also exquisite. When you go to a subpar bar, the saltiness can be overpowering, making the drinks go down easily, but you might regret it the next day with poor circulation or bloating. You don't have to worry about that here. This isn't a place to go just to get drunk or have a boisterous party; it's a bar for self-assured adults who understand their own tastes, worldviews, and values, to gather and enjoy a quiet drink.
3. Nakano, 2F, 31-3 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Located behind the Udagawa police box, along the street from Chouraku towards Hands (Center Gai). Your first visit will likely surprise you with "Wow, there's a place like this here?" To put it simply, "a seafood izakaya in Center Gai" sounds rather cliché, but the reality is wonderfully different from that image. This long-standing establishment in Center Gai, with nearly 50 years of history, offers a precious, calm adult space, untouched by the clamor of Shibuya. It's also great that they serve lunch.
Located behind the Udagawa police box, along the street from Chouraku towards Hands (Center Gai). Your first visit will likely surprise you with "Wow, there's a place like this here?" To put it simply, "a seafood izakaya in Center Gai" sounds rather cliché, but the reality is wonderfully different from that image. This long-standing establishment in Center Gai, with nearly 50 years of history, offers a precious, calm adult space, untouched by the clamor of Shibuya. It's also great that they serve lunch.
The fish, which changes depending on the season and availability, is expertly prepared whether served as sashimi, grilled, or fried. Even in winter, their hot pot dishes showcase carefully selected ingredients, allowing you to fully appreciate their richness, sweetness, and depth of flavor. Their signature pressed mackerel sushi makes for a perfect souvenir. Enjoying sake and fish in this atmospheric space, reminiscent of a rural hot spring inn, is sure to captivate even those middle-aged patrons who once reveled in the cheap drinks and wild nights of Center Gai.
There are taishu sakaba in every station, likely more numerous than Starbucks or McDonald's. While the definition of a "good" bar may vary, ultimately, like bars and coffee shops, "how comfortable it is when you go alone" seems like a key criterion. A place that's good for solo dining is also good for dining with like-minded friends. In any case, at a bar where adults gather, it's crucial to be mindful and avoid getting so drunk that you end up vomiting or sleeping in the restroom.
Yasutake IJICHI
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner. At age 30, he resigned and, with a friend from junior high school, co-founded "Sunshine Juice," Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, serving as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and taishu sakaba.
Instagram:ijichiman
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner. At age 30, he resigned and, with a friend from junior high school, co-founded "Sunshine Juice," Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, serving as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and taishu sakaba.
Instagram:ijichiman