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December 6, 2021
Discover the Unprecedented Charm of Sparkling Sake: "Fukaboshi" | SAKE HUNDRED
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SAKE HUNDRED
Uncompromising Craftsmanship in Sake Making and Brewing Technology: A Japanese Sake to Share with the World
With methods unbound by convention, "SAKE HUNDRED" (Saké Handoreddo) crafts entirely new forms of Japanese sake, earning high praise not only in the alcohol industry but also on the world's top restaurant stages. What sets this luxury sake brand apart from existing Japanese sakes, and what are the makers' aspirations? We asked brand owner Ryushi Ikoma.
Photographs by Kaku Ohtaki | Text by Yoko Koizumi | Edit by Takashi Tsuchida
Resetting the Concept of Japanese Sake
As soon as the glass nears the lips, a sweet, fruity aroma fills the nostrils. The first sip reveals a mellow richness and umami derived from lactic acid. Then, an overwhelmingly fine effervescence, much like vintage Champagne, dances across the tongue with a silky touch.
Indeed, this is a completely new "experience" unlike any sake before, evoking such emotion. Furthermore, the bottle design exudes a sophisticated aura distinct from conventional ones, signaling that this is no ordinary sake.
What exactly is "SAKE HUNDRED," which has captivated so many? To find the answer, we spoke with brand owner Ryushi Ikoma.
Mr. Ikoma is the CEO of Clear, the company that operates "SAKE HUNDRED" and "SAKETIMES," a web media outlet with 550,000 readers, relied upon by sake enthusiasts both in Japan and abroad.
Mr. Ikoma first encountered Japanese sake at the age of 25.
Actually, I don't have a high alcohol tolerance. But at 25, I had the chance to taste a truly exceptional Japanese sake. It made me realize, 'Ah, so this is how delicious Japanese sake can be.'
That sake was "Koro," produced by the Kumamoto Prefectural Institute of Brewing. It is a renowned sake associated with the "God of Sake," Kinichi Mashiro (1876-1964). The institute has a bronze statue of Mashiro, and Mr. Ikoma shared with a laugh, "I bowed to the statue when I visited for the first time." The taste was so profound it changed his life.
Wanting to share its allure widely, he founded Clear in 2013 and launched the web media "SAKETIMES" to promote the charms of Japanese sake. While visiting hundreds of breweries across Japan and sometimes venturing abroad for interviews, Mr. Ikoma felt a renewed sense of appreciation.
'Japanese sake is truly amazing. It's interesting, delicious, and profound. Moreover, there are still unknown aspects, and the technology is constantly evolving and deepening. As I experienced sake, the desire to create my own someday began to grow.'
After a decade involved with Japanese sake, Mr. Ikoma, who has dedicated himself fully to the business, developed a strong conviction.
'Compared to its potential, Japanese sake is priced too low. I personally believe that products not just worth 100,000 yen, but even 1 million, or eventually 10 million yen, are entirely possible. Despite this, it's frustrating that breweries, despite their dedicated efforts, don't receive commensurate satisfaction. How can we create a more prosperous industry, and what can I do? That led me to the idea of high value-added Japanese sake, particularly suited for the luxury market.'
Thus, in 2018, "SAKE HUNDRED" was born.
The Strength to Create New Japanese Sake
'We are not a brewery ourselves. SAKE HUNDRED designs the ideal taste, and our partner breweries bring it to life with their technical expertise, thereby creating new forms of Japanese sake.'
What does "design" entail? It means extracting the concept of the taste, considering various scenarios such as what food it will be paired with and when it will be consumed. The non-negotiable point for Mr. Ikoma when deciding on the concept is the premise of "presenting it to the world."
'If we are to make Japanese sake a globally accepted beverage, we must demonstrate its compatibility with various cuisines, such as Italian and French. We consider when it will be drunk, at what point in a course meal it will be served, what kind of mood it will create, and what aspects of sake's charm it will showcase. With these perspectives integrated, we derive the concept, determine the direction of the sake's quality and taste, and break it down into specific parameters like sweetness and acidity. Then, the search for a brewery begins.'
Without understanding this process, one might mistakenly believe that "SAKE HUNDRED" simply sells sake through branding. However, Mr. Ikoma states that this is not the case.
'The core of SAKE HUNDRED lies in our ability to create new Japanese sake. Conceptualizing and then translating that into a concrete form requires a deep understanding of sake. Furthermore, without an appreciation for luxury, it is difficult to create that world-class ambiance.
'Our vision for SAKE HUNDRED is not only to aim for the pinnacle of Japanese sake but to create sake that can stand alongside the world's renowned beverages. To achieve this, we aim to orchestrate not just deliciousness, but the "extraordinary experience" of drinking this sake itself.'
We have engaged in negotiations with numerous breweries in pursuit of new taste encounters. While some declined, stating they couldn't realize our vision, many breweries resonated with the existence and philosophy of "SAKE HUNDRED."
'The achievements we've built with SAKETIMES have become our credibility. SAKETIMES is quite rigorous, featuring many in-depth, niche articles. As a result, it was difficult to monetize and challenging from a management perspective (laughs). But our sincerity was conveyed, and the trust we earned through those struggles is one of the factors that enabled us to realize SAKE HUNDRED.'
And now, "SAKE HUNDRED" introduces another new product, "Fukaboshi." The concept is a sparkling sake that can be enjoyed throughout a meal, not just for toasts. It is produced by Yamanashi Meijo, known for "Nanatsukasa."
What kind of taste did they create with this brewery, known as a pioneer of sparkling Japanese sake? In the next installment, we will explore its flavors with Ryoko Kitahara, the head brewer.
Fukaboshi | SHINSEI
Price | ¥35,200 (tax included / shipping not included)
Producer | Yamanashi Meijo (Yamanashi)
Rice Variety | Yumeyamada 100% from Yamanashi Prefecture
Rice Polishing Ratio | 67% (Koji rice 57% / Kake rice 67%)
Alcohol Content | 12.0%
Sake Meter Value | -7
Acidity | 2.4
Amino Acid Value | 1.5
Pasteurization | 1 time
Volume | 720ml