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September 29, 2023
Serial Essay | #ijichiman's Musings: "Savoring Rich Game Meats in Winter"
Serial Essay | #ijichiman's Musings
Part 50: "Savoring Rich Game Meats in Winter"
The gibier season is approaching. With hunting season opening in November, winter is the time for gibier in Japan.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
A Culinary Culture Rich in Nourishment and History
Gibier, of course, is a culinary tradition of consuming wild birds and animals that live in nature. In Japan, 'botan nabe' (wild boar hot pot) is famous, but its origins lie in Europe, particularly France. It is said to have been a traditional culinary culture of nobles who owned their own hunting grounds.
While this traditional culinary culture was once viewed with some apprehension in Japan—with some seeing gibier, the act of hunting and consuming animals living in nature, as "cruel" or "human-centric"—attitudes are changing. The idea of giving thanks for the precious lives taken by utilizing every part of the animal, from meat to organs, bones, and blood, and the concept of sustainability, where hunting wild animals that damage the mountains and fields helps protect natural ecosystems and the environment, have led to a reevaluation. Consequently, more local governments and administrative bodies are actively supporting the culinary tradition of gibier. As a result, gibier, once found only in high-end restaurants, traditional Japanese inns, and kappo establishments, is now appearing in casual izakayas and chain restaurants. After all, much of the beef, pork, and chicken we eat are animals managed by humans from birth to raising and breeding, specifically for consumption. When you consider which is more cruel or human-centric... from a food chain perspective, it's perfectly reasonable.
Gibier encompasses a variety of animals, including deer, wild boar, ducks, pheasants, bears, and pigeons. Each has its own peak season, with males and females differing. The meat is said to be tender and flavorful when it's from males before mating season, when they've stored a lot of nutrients, or from females who haven't given birth. In Japan, hunting periods are regulated to avoid disturbing breeding seasons (primarily spring and summer), considering bird migration patterns, and to align with the reduction of agricultural and forestry workers in rural areas. The general hunting season is three months, from November 15th to February 15th (October 1st to January 31st in Hokkaido). Bears accumulate nutrients by eating acorns and other foods in the fall before hibernating, and wild boars fatten themselves before winter. Ducks become fattier and their meat tender after December. Thus, winter is undoubtedly the prime season for gibier.
Gibier is cherished not only for its spirit, taste, and rarity, but also for its exquisite flavor. Animals that have roamed the mountains and fields, feeding on natural foods, have lean, firm bodies packed with nutrients and concentrated umami. The processes of capture, bleeding, butchering, freezing/refrigeration, and thawing all require high levels of skill. And finally, there is the expertise and dedication of the chef who prepares it. In the cold of winter, one wants to enjoy the complex, deep, and nourishing flavors of gibier.
■La Boucherie du Buppa: 1-1-1 Liberta Yutenji B1F, Yutenji, Meguro-ku
At the end of the Meguro Ginza Shopping Street. As winter approaches each year, I find myself wanting to eat fugu and visit Buppa. Upon entering, the first thing that strikes you is the impressive aging cellar. Buppa is not only a renowned gibier restaurant but also a pioneer in aged meat. All the meats resting in this cellar are carefully selected domestic products. They meticulously manage hunting periods, processing methods, age, and sex. The classic way to enjoy them here is as charcuterie (a general term for processed items like sausages, hams, and pâtés) or simply grilled over charcoal, paired with natural wines. The winter specialty, the blue-necked duck, is a must-try. It's prepared to have an elegant flavor that belies its wild origin, making it accessible even for gibier novices.
At the end of the Meguro Ginza Shopping Street. As winter approaches each year, I find myself wanting to eat fugu and visit Buppa. Upon entering, the first thing that strikes you is the impressive aging cellar. Buppa is not only a renowned gibier restaurant but also a pioneer in aged meat. All the meats resting in this cellar are carefully selected domestic products. They meticulously manage hunting periods, processing methods, age, and sex. The classic way to enjoy them here is as charcuterie (a general term for processed items like sausages, hams, and pâtés) or simply grilled over charcoal, paired with natural wines. The winter specialty, the blue-necked duck, is a must-try. It's prepared to have an elegant flavor that belies its wild origin, making it accessible even for gibier novices.
■Restaurant Unic: 1F Matsuda Building, 3-12-3 Meguro, Meguro-ku
About a 15-minute walk from Meguro Station along Meguro Dori, past Otori Shrine. This is a compact restaurant where the owner-chef handles both cooking and service single-handedly, offering authentic French gibier in a casual, unpretentious setting. They feature not only classic ingredients like deer, wild boar, and duck, but also a variety of seasonal items such as pigeon, bear, badger, and Asiatic black bear. These are meticulously prepared with time and effort, maximizing their robust and powerful flavors. With many ingredients encountered for the first time, each bite brings a sense of surprise, understanding, and delight, making the experience endlessly enjoyable. The deep flavors and simple, unadorned presentation reflect the professional pride of someone who doesn't pander to the masses. It's sure to captivate both gibier beginners and true enthusiasts.
About a 15-minute walk from Meguro Station along Meguro Dori, past Otori Shrine. This is a compact restaurant where the owner-chef handles both cooking and service single-handedly, offering authentic French gibier in a casual, unpretentious setting. They feature not only classic ingredients like deer, wild boar, and duck, but also a variety of seasonal items such as pigeon, bear, badger, and Asiatic black bear. These are meticulously prepared with time and effort, maximizing their robust and powerful flavors. With many ingredients encountered for the first time, each bite brings a sense of surprise, understanding, and delight, making the experience endlessly enjoyable. The deep flavors and simple, unadorned presentation reflect the professional pride of someone who doesn't pander to the masses. It's sure to captivate both gibier beginners and true enthusiasts.
■Momojya
A long-established restaurant in Ryogoku, specializing in 'shishi nabe' (wild boar hot pot), with a history spanning over 300 years and ten generations since the Edo period. The three wild boar taxidermies in front of the store are a striking sight. Although the consumption of wild game was taboo in the Edo period, it was secretly enjoyed, and eateries handling these meats were discreetly advertised with coded names like 'Momojiya' or 'Yamakujiya'. It is said that the current terms 'botan' (peony) and 'yamakujira' (mountain whale) for boar and whale meat, and 'momiji' (maple) for venison, are remnants of these old coded names. Another theory suggests that 'botan' refers to the beautiful arrangement of red meat and fat resembling a peony. The course menu also includes deer sashimi and bear soup. While it might sound cliché and unappealing to gibier aficionados to describe gibier as 'not gamey,' it retains its distinct character—its 'umami' or essence—without being unpleasant. The hot pot is miso-based. According to the waitstaff, the longer it simmers, the tastier it becomes. Although one might expect the meat to toughen with prolonged simmering over high heat, it remains tender. The vegetables, infused with the broth of wild boar and miso, are also irresistible. It's truly convincing that such a long history is due to valid reasons. With its rich umami and nutrients, this botan nabe is perfect for warming up the body in winter.
A long-established restaurant in Ryogoku, specializing in 'shishi nabe' (wild boar hot pot), with a history spanning over 300 years and ten generations since the Edo period. The three wild boar taxidermies in front of the store are a striking sight. Although the consumption of wild game was taboo in the Edo period, it was secretly enjoyed, and eateries handling these meats were discreetly advertised with coded names like 'Momojiya' or 'Yamakujiya'. It is said that the current terms 'botan' (peony) and 'yamakujira' (mountain whale) for boar and whale meat, and 'momiji' (maple) for venison, are remnants of these old coded names. Another theory suggests that 'botan' refers to the beautiful arrangement of red meat and fat resembling a peony. The course menu also includes deer sashimi and bear soup. While it might sound cliché and unappealing to gibier aficionados to describe gibier as 'not gamey,' it retains its distinct character—its 'umami' or essence—without being unpleasant. The hot pot is miso-based. According to the waitstaff, the longer it simmers, the tastier it becomes. Although one might expect the meat to toughen with prolonged simmering over high heat, it remains tender. The vegetables, infused with the broth of wild boar and miso, are also irresistible. It's truly convincing that such a long history is due to valid reasons. With its rich umami and nutrients, this botan nabe is perfect for warming up the body in winter.
Yasutake Ijichi
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and resigned at the age of 30. He joined his representative, a friend since junior high school, in establishing Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," and served as Vice President until September 2020. Currently, he supports corporate communication and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and resigned at the age of 30. He joined his representative, a friend since junior high school, in establishing Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," and served as Vice President until September 2020. Currently, he supports corporate communication and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman