“We want to deliver the energy of freshly harvested ingredients as they are.”

CONTRAIL, a collective of like-minded adults transcending industry boundaries, aims to propose new places and experiences. Kenichi Mori, the representative, and Hiroshi Ito, who handles art direction, witnessed a food culture in Paris that was "present there and absent in Japan today." Among the many places that offered them inspiration and insight, the restaurant "Semilla" stood out as particularly close to their ideal.



Let's ask Chef Trochon about Pirouette's cuisine. "I want to focus on 'how to best utilize the ingredients that arrived today.' While many restaurants claim to use fresh ingredients, it's not actually that simple to build a menu based solely on what arrives each day. However, here, prioritizing the quality and freshness of ingredients, we decided not to fix the menu in advance.

I find the true joy of cooking in delivering the energy of freshly harvested ingredients as purely as possible. The producer, the cook, the diner—the essence of culinary delight is packed into the interactions among them. A restaurant where new dishes are born daily using ingredients that arrived that very day, with a constantly changing menu. While it may be challenging operationally, I want to take on this challenge with the same spirit that animates Semilla," says Trochon.

The Importance of Ingredients, Taught by France

Chef Naoya Kobayashi, who helms Pirouette's kitchen, is someone whose talent Trochon recognizes. What Paris has that Japan currently lacks—it wasn't just the CONTRAIL members who felt this. Chef Kobayashi, after working in several French restaurants in Japan, also moved to France. After a year's stay, his values had completely shifted by the time he returned to Japan.

Just as Mori and Ito witnessed people genuinely enjoying their meals in France, Chef Kobayashi, from a chef's perspective, felt that the French people were "truly enjoying life." Regardless of nationality or age, talent is recognized. They converse sincerely without hierarchy, aiming for the same goals. In a restaurant, a place where people connect, this simple and clear environment allows chefs to perform well without unnecessary stress.

Like Trochon, Chef Kobayashi also emphasizes ingredients. The produce of the South of France, which he encountered first, quickly captivated him. While he had begun visiting producers in Japan and becoming drawn to the appeal of ingredients, it was facing world-class quality and freshness at the border with Italy that made him realize ingredients were the most crucial element of his cooking.

A Kitchen of Daily Change and Innovation, Without Signature Dishes

We also inquired about the specific menu. The bistro plans to offer a prix fixe course consisting of cold appetizers, hot appetizers, main course, coffee, and petit fours. The price is ¥5,000 (excluding tax). Desserts and cheese will be extra. To offer high-quality, fresh ingredients as affordably as possible under the concept of "casual dining," collaboration with producers is essential.

Their restaurant, where they face the challenge of ingredients seriously every day, has no signature dishes. "I have no intention of imposing my own cooking on customers. On the contrary, I want each customer to create their own unique signature dish," says Kobayashi. "Isn't it more enjoyable for both the chef and the customer to have variety rather than sticking to fixed dishes? Continuous change is my principle. Especially for young chefs, it's important to take various actions and innovate. Technique is important, but based on that, I want them to constantly pursue new challenges and discoveries. This project is not just a job for me; it's a human business. I want to grow together with everyone, not just by teaching techniques, but by being part of the team," says Trochon.

The vegetables, such as tomatoes prepared as ceviche (top left) and zucchini blossoms (top right), are all freshly harvested from Sunaga Farm. The roulade of Iwate short-horn beef and sea bass from the Goto Islands (bottom left), and the sea bass prepared bouillabaisse-style from the Goto Islands (bottom center), as well as seafood, are primarily sourced from a trusted supplier in Nagasaki. The roast of Iwate short-horn beef with vegetables from Sunaga Farm (bottom right) seems to encapsulate the passionate producers' dedication in a single dish.

While the bistro offers course menus, the café will provide smaller portions, with options that can be enjoyed quickly even by a single diner. Plans are also underway for cooking classes and weekend events where guests can share dishes prepared with generous portions of vegetables and large cuts of meat.

Whether dining alone, with a group, enjoying a drink, or simply purchasing vegetables, all are welcome. Like its menu, Pirouette offers a wide range of free choices for visiting purposes. It's a proposal for a place where new discoveries and enjoyment can be found, centered around rich food culture. The ingredients will undoubtedly connect people one after another on this stage—producers and chefs, chefs and guests, and even guests with each other.

What Paris has that Tokyo lacks, a rich food culture where authenticity exists in daily life, connections between people... The keywords that emerged from the interviews for Chapter 1 (Mori and Ito) and Chapter 2 (Trochon and Kobayashi), conducted on completely different days, were coincidentally the same.Interview for Chapter 1 (Mori, Ito)Of course, neither party had coordinated beforehand. Friends, places, and timing—a strong will and power from people attract these elements. The resonant underlying theme, shared by both the creators and the chefs, continues to grow in magnitude and scope as the opening approaches.

In the final installment, Chapter 3, we will focus on the recipients of Pirouette's offerings. How will this place, which envisions a new future for food, resonate with its guests? Let's experience the world of Pirouette through the guidance of adults who know authenticity.