The Forefront of Global Gastronomy, Revealed Through "The World's 50 Best Restaurants"
A Special Contribution from Columnist Takanori Nakamura
The Boiling Frontline of Global Gastronomy!
Decoding Global Food Trends from "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" (Part 1)
This year, "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" (hereafter, World's 50) has been decided. The main sponsors are San Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. Every year, over 930 food professionals, including journalists, critics, chefs, and restaurateurs, serve as academy members to select the most "delicious" restaurants right now. Mr. Takanori Nakamura, a columnist, serves as the representative for the 36 academy members from Japan. We asked him to decode the global food trends along with this year's rankings.
Text by NAKAMURA Takanori
Edited by TANAKA Junko (OPENERS)
A More Valuable Restaurant Ranking Than Michelin?
The 2014 rankings were recently announced. This is a global restaurant ranking announced annually at the Guildhall Art Gallery in London, UK. This year's announcement was made on April 28th. Since its establishment in 2002, it has been announced every year starting in 2003, and its attention is soaring. It is now often called the "Academy Awards of the culinary world," and its results are covered as top news by major media outlets in various countries. This is because the influence of this ranking significantly impacts not only the culinary industry but also the economic effects of countries, including tourism. Among young chefs worldwide, there are many who say, "I'd rather aim for World's 50 than Michelin."
(This year's rankings: http://www.theworlds50best.com/list/1-50-winners)
Andre Chiang of "Restaurant ANDRE"
The three brothers who run "El Celler de Can Roca"
Chefs celebrating their reunion before the venue
Fundamentally, this ranking is determined by the votes of over 930 academy members, including food experts and critics from around the world. As all restaurants on Earth are subject to review, the world is divided into 26 countries and regions, with a chairman appointed for each region.In Japan, Yumiko Inukai served in this role and dedicated herself for many yearsbut starting this year, I have taken over that duty. And I participated in the 2014 London awards for the first time as a chairman. I would like to immediately explore the latest trends in the restaurant scene along with the results.
The top spot went to Denmark's"NOMA"led by Rene Redzepi. NOMA fell from the No. 1 position, which it had held for three consecutive years, to second place in the 2013 rankings. It has now reclaimed the top spot in the 2014 rankings. They must have been extremely disappointed by last year's fall. In his acceptance speech, Rene gave a tearful address for nearly 10 minutes about the passion they poured into this award and their joy at winning.
The first time we became No. 1 in 2010, I couldn't deliver the speech I had prepared. I was intimidated by the presence of such great chefs. But today, I want to deliver it with pride. First, I thank my dear friends. And I thank those who chose NOMA. Thank you for believing in us. We did it! I am truly happy to share this joy with you all today. I am often asked, "What is the secret to success?" The answer is simple. We achieved it together. When we work together, we can overcome anything. In fact, we have overcome many trials to get here. To me, you are the best dream team. Do you remember when NOMA first opened? Back then, when no one believed in us. We were clearly out of place in the sophisticated fine dining world. We were even given strange nicknames, but we never paid them any mind. And now, it has borne fruit. But this is not the end. Our adventure continues. Just as we have always done, we will make many mistakes and create new recipes. Let's keep making mistakes, everyone!
Meanwhile, last year's No. 1,"El Celler de Can Roca"dropped to second place, and third place went to Italy's"Osteria Francescana", with fourth place awarded to America's"Eleven Madison Park". While the tendency for European and American restaurants to rank high continues, partly due to the concentration of academy members in Europe and the US, the competition has become more globalized with the launch of "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants" two years ago and "Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants" last year. If World's 50 is the world championship, these regional competitions could be considered regional leagues. The establishment of regional competitions will likely raise expectations for both areas.
2nd place: "El Celler de Can Roca"
4th place: "Eleven Madison Park"
A Special Contribution from Columnist Takanori Nakamura
The Boiling Frontline of Global Gastronomy!
Decoding Global Food Trends from "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" (Part 2)
Continued Interest in Central and South America and Rising Expectations for Japan
The highest-ranked restaurant outside Europe and the US this year is Brazil's São Paulo-based"D.O.M.". Chef Alex Atala won the "Chefs' Choice Award," decided by a vote of chefs, showcasing his creative achievements and Brazil's economic prosperity. As for the Japanese contingent, while there is much interest, "Narisawa"significantly climbed from 20th place last year to 14th, demonstrating its presence. Along with "JAPANESE CULINARY 10""Ryugin"" (33rd place), two restaurants were ranked. Including Japan, there are a total of 7 restaurants from Asia. This calculates to the top 7 from the regional "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants," announced at the end of February, becoming world rankers.
Alex Atala of "D.O.M."
Brazil is drawing attention as a new culinary continent.
Among the Asian restaurants, I am personally paying attention to Bangkok's"Gaggan", which received the "Highest New Entry Award" and made its debut entry. Chef Gaggan Anand is Indian and trained at elBulli. While based on Indian cuisine, he creates his own unique world. Speaking of Asian highlights, Singapore's "Restaurant ANDRE"(38th place last year) ranked 37th. Although no restaurants from India or mainland China made the list, they will undoubtedly be forces to be reckoned with in the future.
In conversations with the chairmen from various countries whom I met through the awards, there was continued high interest in Central and South America, led by the booming economies of Brazil and Peru. While still largely unknown, there were whispers of interest in the African continent as well. However, expectations for Japan, with its overwhelming potential in terms of restaurant quality and quantity, are considerably high. In that sense, the pioneering roles played by "Narisawa"and "Ryugin"in consecutively ranking is of great value, both in asserting Japan's presence and in supporting Japanese restaurants that follow in their footsteps. To aim for higher rankings than the present, efforts at the national level, such as information dissemination and attracting visitors, may be necessary.
I have received some recent information that could serve as a catalyst, so I will conclude with that topic. "NOMA," which won first place this year, has decided to temporarily relocate its restaurant to Tokyo. From January 9th to January 31st, 2015, the signature restaurant on the 37th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo will become "NOMA".
(Details: http://www.mandarinoriental.co.jp/tokyo/hotel/hotel-news/)
The interior of "NOMA" features simple round wooden tables without tablecloths.
Chef Rene Redzepi
He excels at incorporating ingredients inspired by forests and coastlines into his dishes.
Reportedly, they will close their Danish restaurant and come with the entire staff, led by Chef Rene. This is also rumored, but they are said to be considering future expansion in Japan. In light of this, I am eagerly anticipating the content of the cuisine they will offer. This news will likely become a major topic both domestically and internationally by the end of the year, and it will undoubtedly serve as a draw for tourism.
Personally, what I most hope for is that this will be an opportunity for many Japanese people to become interested in global gastronomy trends. At the same time, I hope it will serve as a valuable realization of the appeal of "Japanese food" that NOMA chose to open in Japan, of all places. After all, they wouldn't come to Japan solely for profit reasons.
Takanori Nakamura
Columnist. Active in magazines, newspapers, and TV, focusing on luxury lifestyles including fashion, culture, gourmet dining, travel, and hotels. Awarded Chevalier (Knight) of the Order of Champagne in 2007. Since 2010, he has also served as a goodwill ambassador for Norway as "Hr. Style Norway." Currently, he is the representative for the World's 50 Best Restaurants' Japanese academy members. Kendo 7th Dan. Certified tea ceremony instructor by the Dai Nippon Chado Society. His recent publication is "Meiten Recipe no Junrei Shugyo" (World Culture Publishing).