The World's Fastest, Most Authoritative Restaurant Ranking

While various contests and rankings evaluate chefs and restaurants, "The World's 50 Best Restaurants" has garnered the most attention in recent years. This event, initiated in 2002 by the British magazine "Restaurant," is sponsored by San Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. The awards ceremony, held annually in London in late April, draws media from around the world and is widely covered in general newspapers the following day.
(This year's list: http://www.theworlds50best.com/list/1-50-winners/#t1-50)

Why has it become so prominent? Let's explain the ranking system. Voters are professionals in the food industry, including journalists, critics, chefs, and restaurant owners. Currently, there are 36 voters in each of 26 regions, totaling 936. The representative for each region is called a chairman, who selects the remaining 35 voters. Each voter selects four restaurants from their own region and three from other regions. The criteria are "restaurants that you found to be good" within the past 18 months. "Good" is a vague term, but because it's chosen by food professionals, the tendency is to select restaurants that are at the forefront of the times, new, and creative.

The 26 Chairmen Representing Each Region

Indeed, some restaurants on this list may have one Michelin star, or none at all. Even lesser-known or obscure establishments can have their talent recognized early by this ranking. In this sense, for young chefs, being listed within the top 50 is the first step to global recognition, and for journalists and gourmands, it is an indispensable ranking for discovering chefs and restaurants that are currently generating buzz.

Japan began participating in 2007. The previous year, a French critic acquaintance contacted me, saying, "I'm participating at the request of a British magazine, and they recommended you, Yumiko, to coordinate for Japan." Soon after, I received instructions: "We want you to be the chairman for Japan, South Korea, and North Korea, and to form the panel of voters." North Korea? I replied, "Contacting them is impossible." I was surprised, realizing that the great British Empire didn't quite grasp the realities of the Far East. The major issue at the time was, "Why aren't any Japanese restaurants in the top 50?" Getting Japanese restaurants ranked was the top priority.

Then, in 2008,"Les Créations de Narisawa" (now NARISAWA), and in 2009,"Nihon Ryori RyuGin"were added, and these two restaurants have consistently ranked within the top 50 since then.



Furthermore, on February 26th of this year, "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants" was announced in Singapore, with "NARISAWA" taking first place, "Nihon Ryori RyuGin" second, "Quintessence" sixteenth, "Hajime" twenty-first, "Sushi Mizutani" twenty-seventh, "Takazawa" thirty-first, "Kahala" thirty-third, "Sushi Saito" thirty-ninth, and "Ishikawa" forty-second. Additionally, on September 4th, "Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants" will be announced in Lima, Peru.

New Openings Abound! This is World 50

The awards ceremony is held every year on a Monday in late April. Chefs ranked in the top 50 receive invitations, but no one knows their exact position until the announcement. The airfare and accommodation to London are all at their own expense. Consequently, in the past, only about half of the invited chefs would attend. However, this year, an astonishing 49 out of the 50 ranked chefs were present, a testament to the growing attention and recognition of this ceremony as a prestigious stage for chefs. Incidentally, the one chef who did not attend was Alain Passard of "Arpège." He has never attended before.

However, this year, an astonishing 49 out of the 50 ranked chefs were present, a testament to the growing attention and recognition of this ceremony as a prestigious stage for chefs. Incidentally, the one chef who did not attend was Alain Passard of "Arpège." He has never attended before.Alain PassardHe has never attended before.




There are three main characteristics this year. Firstly, the dynamism of South America. Symbolizing the "Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants" to be held in the fall, there are new entries from South America: Peru at 50th place, "Central," and Brazil at 46th place, "Maní."Central, and Brazil at 46th place, "Maní."ManíThe most significant leap was by Peru at 14th place, "Astrid y Gastón."Astrid y GastónIt also rose in rank to 21st place.

"Maní," a new entry. The restaurant is run by the husband-and-wife chef team Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo.

The second characteristic is the stagnation of Nordic restaurants. Symbolized by Denmark's "Noma," which unfortunately lost its world No. 1 position, only Sweden's "Frantzen" at 12th place is within the top 20.Noma, only Sweden's "Frantzen" at 12th place is within the top 20.Frantzen

The third is the depth of the Spanish contingent, which remains strong. "El Celler de Can Roca" at No. 1 is a stable establishment run by three brothers. Similarly, "Mugaritz" at No. 4 is likely the restaurant that has ranked high for the longest time. "Arzak" at 8th place, "Quique Dacosta" at 26th, and "Asador Etxebarri" at 44th, all consistently rank, albeit with fluctuations in their positions, which is truly impressive.El Celler de Can Rocais a stable establishment run by three brothers. Similarly, "Mugaritz" at No. 4 is likely the restaurant that has ranked high for the longest time. "Arzak" at 8th place, "Quique Dacosta" at 26th, and "Asador Etxebarri" at 44th, all consistently rank, albeit with fluctuations in their positions, which is truly impressive.Mugaritzis likely the restaurant that has ranked high for the longest time. "Arzak" at 8th place, "Quique Dacosta" at 26th, and "Asador Etxebarri" at 44th, all consistently rank, albeit with fluctuations in their positions, which is truly impressive.Arzak, and at 26th place,Quique Dacosta, and at 44th place,Asador Etxebarri, all consistently rank, albeit with fluctuations in their positions, which is truly impressive.

Restaurants of Interest

I want to draw attention to the restaurant that made the biggest leap in ranking, Peru's "Astrid y Gastón" at 14th place,Astrid y Gastónand Brazil's "D.O.M." at 6th place, which has long held the top spot in South America. What intrigues me most is the mysterious ingredients from the Amazon.D.O.M.I wonder what kind of ingredients they will be, and how they will be presented. I had the opportunity to taste Chef Gastón's cuisine at a special dinner in London; the chili-based sauce was spicy yet elegant. I would love to experience more of his dishes.



Also noteworthy are Austria's "Steirereck" at 9th place, which jumped into the top 10, and Germany's "Vendôme" at 10th place (which also rose 13 places this year!).Steirereck, and Germany's "Vendôme" at 10th place (which also rose 13 places this year!).VendômeThese are two restaurants in areas of Europe that we tend to overlook. Since we don't often travel there, we need to find an opportunity to visit.

Incidentally, in the autumn of 2011, I visited "El Celler de Can Roca," which is now ranked No. 1.El Celler de Can RocaNearby, their parents ran a bar and restaurant, serving what is truly the Roca family's home cooking (incidentally, the three brothers also worked at this bar and restaurant, earning two Michelin stars, and to aim for three stars, they built the current modern establishment nearby). I had lunch there and then experienced the tasting menu at the three-star dining room that evening. I was deeply moved by the "taste" that revealed Chef Joan Roca's respect for his mother's cooking. However, what I find myself longing to revisit is the humble食堂 (shokudo - diner) where the mother works. Would that be disrespectful to the chef?

The interior of "El Celler de Can Roca" visited two years ago.