Hoshinoya Tokyo's Second Nippon Cuisine Theme: Fermentation | EAT

Fresh bonito! Just look at this glistening cut of bonito. The base is a bonito fish sauce. It melts

LOUNGE / EAT
September 16, 2020

Hoshinoya Tokyo's Second Nippon Cuisine Theme: Fermentation | EAT

EAT | HOSHINOYA Tokyo

Chef Hamada's New Dinner: Boosting Immunity with Fermentation x French Cuisine

HOSHINOYA Tokyo's globally acclaimed dinner course, "Nippon Cuisine." This concept elevates Japan's finest ingredients by not limiting them to Japanese techniques, but by fusing them with French methods to achieve a global standard. Leading this is Executive Chef Noriyuki Hamada, who achieved 3rd place overall and 1st place for fish dishes at the Bocuse d'Or international culinary competition's French final. In essence, this is a dinner produced by a globally cutting-edge chef. And for anyone who considers themselves a gourmand, this menu is indispensable. Simply delicious!!

Photographs & Text by Takashi Tsuchida

Nourishing Body and Soul, Beautifully

HOSHINOYA Tokyo Executive Chef Noriyuki Hamada
There are "geniuses" in the world whose characters are widely recognized beyond their professional fields, and Chef Hamada is undoubtedly one of them. I believe he is someone who will connect with geniuses in various fields to achieve the unimaginable. Why do I think so? Don't you find such people out immediately when you talk to them? Their perspective is sharp, essential, and articulated in their own words. His discussions about selecting delicious ingredients are a prime example. While I highly recommend speaking with him directly to experience his earnestness, here is the latest menu he has crafted.
Paired with "Uni-bishi," a fermented ingredient.
The Five Wills

Sour: Rolled Mackerel
Salty: Clam Gazpacho
Bitter: Sea Snail and Bitter Gourd Croquette
Spicy: Octopus and Scallop Merguez
Sweet: Amami Shrimp Zunda Mochi
This is Chef Hamada's signature presentation style. He brings the stone directly to his mouth.
Fresh: Bonito
And here it is! Seared bonito. It has an exceptional firmness, and the umami permeates the entire fillet. I am particularly fond of bonito, but I have never tasted such delicious seared bonito before. It's seared over straw and then salted. The shuto sauce is also superb. Shuto is made by salt-curing and fermenting bonito innards over a long period.
Ayu confit. The fish's natural flavor and aroma are sealed in oil, and it's eaten whole. Including its bitterness, it's the taste of summer.
This is something special. Duck meat is a treasure trove of flavor. Japanese people understand the depth of flavor in "kamo-jiru" (duck soup), and this is an application of that. A thick cut of duck, suitable for steak, is served with a consommé-style soup infused with Nesashi miso from Tokushima. The tender duck meat is coated in the rich, flavorful soup.

Furthermore, after eating half of it, a grilled rice ball is added! The crushed rice grains absorb the liquid, creating a texture like zosui (rice porridge) that slides down easily. The smoky char dissolves into the consommé, and the exquisite aroma fills your senses – this is the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine. The synergy between Japanese and French cuisine. When you multiply delicious ingredients by delicious preparation methods, you're bound to create an exceptionally tasty dish. A culinary equation, it's no wonder it's so good.
A presentation where pressing the center of a butterfly-shaped lang de chat, layered three times, makes the butterfly appear to flutter its wings. Adding an elegant sweetness to the peach compote is a milk jam that Chef Hamada developed with HOSHINOYA Resorts Nasu to reduce food loss.
So, we've presented the highlights of the second Nippon Cuisine summer menu. However, the course is not complete; it holds further surprises and discoveries. Even we Japanese, who regularly consume fermented foods, will surely exclaim "Delicious!" anew. Chef Hamada says, "Rather than thinking about fermented foods intellectually, we aimed for deliciousness, and this is the result." He also expressed his ambition to tackle aged sushi (nare-zushi) in the fall. Indeed, Nippon Cuisine Vol. 2, with its theme of fermentation, will continue to evolve, transforming with seasonal ingredients. You cannot speak of Japanese haute cuisine without experiencing this exquisite course!!
Nippon Cuisine ~Fermentation~
  • Price: ¥18,000 per person (excluding tax and 10% service charge, accommodation fee not included)
  • Reservations: RequiredOfficial WebsiteAccepted until the day before on the website.
  • Eligibility: Guests staying at HOSHINOYA Tokyo
  • Notes: Menu items and ingredients may change depending on the situation.
HOSHINOYA Tokyo
Opened in July 2016 with the concept of a "towering Japanese inn." It is HOSHINOYA's first urban ryokan, where guests remove their shoes at the entrance and can enjoy traditional Japanese rooms with tatami floors, lounge areas on each floor, and a hot spring on the top floor.
Address: 1-9-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Number of Rooms: 84

Autumn Menu Decided for HOSHINOYA Tokyo's Nippon Cuisine Vol. 2: "Fermentation"!
Amuse-bouche: Aged Sushi
Amuse-bouche: The Five Wills
Poisson (Fish Dish): Beryx Splendens En Croûte
Hors d'oeuvre: Foie Gras and Tofu-yo
Viande (Meat Dish): Venison and Nesashi Miso Pot-au-feu
Avant-dessert: Grape and Yogurt Ice Cream
Grand Dessert: Lily Bulb Mont Blanc
Mignardises: Absinthe Bonbons

Here's a digest!!
Inquiries

HOSHINOYA Reservations
Tel. 0570-073-066
https://hoshinoya.com/

Photo Gallery