Naohiko Noguchi, the "God of Sake Brewing"

Kamagaso-machi, written with the characters for "Kannon Shimo Town." In this mountain village in Komatsu City, Ishikawa Prefecture, about a 20-minute drive from the city center, lies a place you must visit when discussing the future of Japanese sake. This is the Naohiko Noguchi Institute, helmed by Naohiko Noguchi, one of Japan's foremost brewers and a living legend. The name "Institute" is striking, but this is a traditional sake brewery in spirit, equipped with the latest facilities. It is a space of potential, connecting the sake brewing of the Showa era to the future of Reiwa, teaching us how to best enjoy wonderful sake, and serving as a base for disseminating Japanese sake worldwide.


Before we guide you through the premises, let us introduce Mr. Noguchi. He was a key figure in popularizing "Ginjoshu" during the prolonged slump of the Japanese sake market from the 1970s onwards, and also played a pivotal role in reviving the "Kimoto method," which was gradually being lost after the war. He has won the gold medal at the National New Sake Appraisal 27 times, including 12 consecutive wins. Over his nearly 70-year career in sake brewing, he has created numerous renowned sakes. Though the world of sake despaired when the man known as the "God of Sake Brewing" stepped away, he made a triumphant return in November 2017 with the establishment of the Naohiko Noguchi Institute. He is now 86 years old, yet he approaches sake brewing with vigor, high spirits, and a radiant smile. While we've described the Naohiko Noguchi Institute as a traditional brewery and a link to the future, its aim is to realize this by researching and passing down Mr. Noguchi's masterful techniques, spirit, and way of life to the next generation.






Currently, there are seven young brewers under Mr. Noguchi. These seven, with their diverse genders and experience levels, are challenging themselves in sake brewing under his guidance. Their movements are not just synchronized; they are serene and fluid. While Mr. Noguchi's gaze is ever-present, they do not merely follow instructions. Instead, they silently immerse themselves in their work, striving to understand the brewing philosophy Mr. Noguchi pursues. While concentrating on brewing the sake before them, they also envision their own future, inheriting Mr. Noguchi's brewing legacy. They likely have no time for contemplation, their days spent absorbing knowledge without conscious thought. Mr. Noguchi says, "I am not raising them. They have their own dreams, their own desire to create, and they strive for that." This daily grind of sake brewing is demanding; several have already dropped out by their second year, but new aspiring brewers have joined. While Mr. Noguchi's eyes may not narrow when brewing, he sees the future they envision, and he sees it alongside them.



Conversely, the aspects Mr. Noguchi believes should change, and which he upholds, are: "Sake and brewing evolve with the times. How do we adapt to that?" From sweetness to clean, dry profiles, and then to fruity notes reminiscent of wine. Sake consumed in climate-controlled homes, sake favored in restaurants worldwide – Mr. Noguchi understands that the demands placed on sake change with the times, and he believes there are things that must be altered to brew sake accordingly. Mr. Noguchi asks, with genuine sincerity, "Will this sake be accepted globally?" This straightforwardness and his voracious appetite for learning are truly remarkable. Being in this place allows him to gather opinions from various people and apply them to his brewing. The Naohiko Noguchi Institute is not only a place for Mr. Noguchi to nurture the next generation of brewers but also a place for him to learn.

The brewing process itself can be glimpsed through a gallery showcasing Mr. Noguchi's journey. State-of-the-art equipment is arranged to facilitate a smoother, more logical workflow. Here, elements that should be mechanized for better brewing coexist with those that must remain unchanged, such as the work in the koji room and the stirring of the mash, creating a site where separation and fusion occur. As mentioned in the introduction of the brewers, there is a serene yet not solely tense atmosphere; it is a gentle flow that is directly reflected in the sake produced at the Naohiko Noguchi Institute. Stillness and fluidity, and from within them, a palpable core and structure. Sake that soothes the soul and stirs the heart.


After observing the brewing process, we move to "Toan," the tasting room adjacent to the institute. Directed by Living National Treasure potter Tokun Ryōmin and artist Toshio Ohi, the space is designed with the image of a "tea room," paying homage to Komatsu City's connection to the Urasenke school of tea ceremony. Here, instead of a typical tasting, there is a unique setup designed to savor the creations of Mr. Noguchi and his team. This is presented as "Three Contents": 1. Today's Recommended Brew, 2. Sake Comparison, and 3. A Presentation Composed of Tradition and Seasonality.


For example, the sake comparison on this particular day focused on "Junmai Sake, Unfiltered Raw Sake 2018BY," offering three tasting experiences based on variations in vessel shape, pottery type, and temperature. This allows guests to discover their current mood for drinking sake, or how best to entertain guests, naturally expanding their knowledge and methods for enjoying sake. The pairings with fermented foods, rich in local wisdom and bounty, and rare delicacies, in a way, evoke the relationship between tea and sweets at a tea ceremony. Both approaches allow for a deeper, broader appreciation of "Junmai Sake, Unfiltered Raw Sake 2018BY," inviting exploration into its profound depths.

In addition to regular tastings, "Toan" will also host a series of events called "Saketronomy" four times a year, featuring collaborations between Mr. Noguchi's sake and world-class chefs from Japan and abroad.

This is a place to experience the challenge of Mr. Noguchi, a representative of contemporary Japanese sake brewing, in what is arguably Japan's most modern sake brewery. It embodies the essence of sake brewing while remaining open to guests. Once you visit, you will likely find yourself eager to share the allure of Japanese sake with others.