INTERVIEW | Discovering the Essence of Krug, the Traditional Champagne House
INTERVIEW | The Art of "Assemblage"
Discovering the Essence of Krug, a Traditional Champagne House
A meticulous production process carried out entirely by hand, and a magnificent flavor created from secret recipes passed down through a long history.—“You will never forget your first taste of Krug,” says Olivier Krug, the sixth-generation head of the house. Recently, he visited Japan with precious documents left by the house's founder, Johann-Joseph Krug. A tasting event for a select few press members was held at his invitation. The secrets behind the supreme taste, born from 166 years of tradition, were unveiled.
Text by FUJITA Mayu (OPENERS)
A "Consistent Quality and Taste" Created by a Unique Method
The history of Champagne house Krug, founded in 1843 by Johann-Joseph Krug, has been passed down from father to son within the Krug family. Currently, Olivier Krug, the eldest son of the previous head, Henri Krug, upholds this tradition as the sixth-generation head. Shortly after taking over as head, he came to Japan and stayed for about two years, during which time Krug was still little known in the country. He met directly with sommeliers, wine collectors, and journalists, explaining Krug's history, its dedication, and its rich flavors. Thanks to his efforts, Krug's name spread among connoisseurs nationwide, and it now boasts the highest share of Champagne in Japan.—Of course, this success is also due to its overwhelming taste, which surpasses mere words.
Krug's commitment lies in its "consistent quality and taste" achieved through the luxurious use of high-quality grapes and a unique production method. Champagne is generally made by assembling (blending) dozens of base wines from different harvests. However, in years when exceptionally good grapes are grown due to climate variations, a special Champagne is sometimes made using only the grapes harvested that year. These are called "vintages" and are required to have a longer aging period than non-vintages. The tasting event held this time also featured rare vintage Champagnes, with Olivier explaining their individual characteristics, allowing attendees to savor their precious flavors.
Two Champagnes Essential to Discussing Krug
Price | ¥12,000 (375mL), ¥22,000 (750mL), ¥52,000 (1500mL), ¥130,000 (3000mL)
The "Krug Grande Cuvée," the cornerstone of the house, is indispensable when discussing Krug. As mentioned earlier, vintage Champagnes are assembled using only grapes from "exceptional years" and require a minimum aging period of three years, significantly longer than the standard 15 months. However, this "Krug Grande Cuvée" is a multi-vintage, considered to have a quality comparable to vintage Champagne. It is crafted using grapes from different harvests within a 6-to-10-year span and aged for six years. Upon tasting, a rich harmony unfolds with a creamy bouquet. After savoring a nutty, toasty finish, it concludes with a vibrant and fresh flavor. The use of barrels plays a role in creating its unique and magnificent taste. Since the flavor of wine changes depending on the type of oak and the size of the barrel, Krug uses small oak barrels for the initial fermentation. This is a unique commitment of the house that underpins its distinctive flavor.
Price | ¥22,000 (375mL), ¥40,000 (750mL)
For the upcoming season, the multi-vintage rosé, "Krug Rosé," is also recommended. Its elegant flavor, described as "lyrical" within Krug's range, is a masterpiece born in 1983, precisely 140 years after the house's founding, and truly "worth the wait." In the Champagne region, vineyards are classified by the quality of grapes they produce, with the best being called Grand Cru. For "Krug Rosé," Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru villages of Verzy and Aÿ is briefly fermented with its skins. This is then blended with other Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay, and fermented using the classic Krug method with small oak barrels. What defines Krug's signature taste is the spread of a mild bouquet, brought about by the excellent aromatic qualities of Pinot Meunier grown in Krug's own vineyards. Along with its fine bubbles, adorning a beautiful pale salmon-gold hue, a dense bouquet of aromas, including wild strawberry flavors, unfolds. The fresh fruitiness reminiscent of berries and a subtle hint of spice create a captivating harmony that is both crisp and rich.
A Winemaker's Belief, Passed Down for 166 Years
While grape quality is important, the most crucial element in Champagne production lies in the assemblage, which relies solely on the palate of the head of the house. Upholding the belief of "consistent quality and taste," Krug selects the optimal base wines from around 250 different types, carefully determining their proportions for blending. Through over 1,000 tastings, they recreate the "unforgettable taste" that has been preserved since the house's founding. As this process directly influences the product's flavor, a high degree of precision is required. However, Krug does not have a written recipe.
The taste that Olivier Krug refers to as "unforgettable" is an art form that can only be created by the "memory of taste" passed down through generations of heads of the house for 166 years. For this tasting event, he specially presented the "secret book" passed down in the Krug family. It was a notebook where the first head, Johann-Joseph Krug, recorded his teachings. It did not contain a "recipe," but rather the "conviction" of the founder, who pursued his unique taste with unconventional, free-spirited ideas that were unthinkable for Champagne houses in the 1840s.
"I was moved when I held this in my hands."—Olivier's words were filled with deep reverence for the founder. Beyond its original production methods and unchanging taste, what the Krug family has passed down is an unwavering conviction in the art of Champagne making. 166 years of tradition and the unceasing passion of its winemakers have transformed into a golden brilliance, creating a magnificently aromatic and original taste. Krug Champagne—Experience the unforgettable taste memory on your palate.
MHD Moët Hennessy Diageo
Tel. 03-5217-9738