The Most Avant-Garde and Cool Collective in the Global Culinary Scene

COOK IT RAW (hereafter, C.I.R), now in its fourth iteration, has previously been held in Copenhagen, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Lapland. This event is currently positioned as the most avant-garde collective in the global culinary world. Though not widely known in Japan, it's a highly anticipated event, with chefs and journalists from various countries eagerly seeking membership and constantly sending requests to the organizers.

The event is organized by two Italians: Alessandro Porcelli, who is based in Denmark and works in food events and consulting, and Andrea Petrini, a Paris-based journalist and producer. C.I.R is an exceptionally rare collective, sustained by sponsors who resonate with the immense will and sensibility of these two individuals, and who understand the timeliness and high quality of its content, rather than seeking immediate profit or revenue.

In the 1990s, amidst a culinary world dominated by vast knowledge, techniques, and established traditions, "molecular gastronomy" began to emerge as a new standard. Top chefs worldwide brought specialized equipment into their kitchens, resembling scientific experiments, with test tubes, droppers, and syringes lining their workbenches. New techniques rapidly spread through culinary conferences and magazines across countries. However, some chefs began to realize that these tools, while creating astonishing results based on formulas, were ultimately just another technique.

As if in defiance of this trend, C.I.R was born with the philosophy that "the new principle in gastronomy is absolute and unconditional respect for the land." In other words, it seeks to understand the Earth's plight through nature and connect to the future through ingredients.—The chefs nominated by the organizers began to realize, across national borders, the myriad ways in which the earth's offerings delight our palates. Each chef trusts in the primordial elements surrounding their own country and navigates between nature and the kitchen, relying on the wisdom of their predecessors. Turning away from computer screens and expanding their vision beyond the microscopic world, they are increasingly focusing their awareness on the nature before them and the future of the planet.

A Venue to Express the "Abundant Japan" We Wish to Share with the World

In early March 2011, Alessandro, one of the organizers, made his first visit to Japan. He, who had traveled the world's culinary conferences, brought together top contemporary chefs, and consistently guided the industry in the right direction, was finally visiting Japan for the first time after passing the midpoint of his life... For those based in Europe, Japan remained a distant land.

Yoshihiro Narisawa of NARISAWA in Tokyo, designated as the host chef, spent a full year searching for a location to bridge the gap between these chefs and Japan: Ishikawa Prefecture. The rich sea, indispensable when speaking of Japan. The beautifully terraced rice paddies overlooking the sea. The lifestyle of satoyama and satoumi, coexisting with nature. Narisawa felt this was the ideal setting to express the "abundant Japan" he strives to share with the world daily. He later learned that the satoyama and satoumi, which constitute 60% of Ishikawa's land area, had been recognized by the UN as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System, a first for Japan and developed nations.

Having secured Ishikawa Prefecture as the venue, Alessandro boarded his flight. Just a few hours later, the Great Earthquake struck Japan. In an instant, the natural disaster transformed Japan into a different country, leaving everyone bewildered and in a period of uncertainty. Of course, who could even speak of international events? Yet, host chef Narisawa continuously reassured his friends around the world about Japan's situation: "It's not over yet. We are still opening our restaurants every day." Alessandro also called him daily, saying, "We brothers believe in your words. We are not worried about food safety; the news is only one part of reality." Through these exchanges, everyone waited for time to pass, knowing that timing is crucial for the success of an event.

The Characters "Shoku-do" (食道), Meaning "The Path to Food," Written Pro Bono by Calligrapher Shizuo Ishizuka

In the face of a global recession, a dark age for fine dining, a decline in foreign tourism, and reputational damage to Japan due to radioactive contamination, the fact that companies would endorse the concept of such an event is a source of pride for the culinary world and will likely lead to a freer environment for global cuisine in the future. Similarly, the participating chefs receive no remuneration. Yet, they travel repeatedly in search of "something," eagerly awaiting their day in Japan.

Nespresso has been a proud supporter of C.I.R as an official partner since its inception in 2009. "We are delighted that C.I.R and Nespresso can share a passion for 'Haute Cuisine'—cuisine crafted under special conditions—with the world's top chefs, combining exceptional senses, taste, and technique with a commitment to environmental conservation," stated Loïc Retoré, President of Nestlé Nespresso Ltd.

Under these circumstances, Ishikawa Prefecture gave the green light for C.I.R to proceed. In support of Narisawa's passion, Four Seasons Hotel Chinzan-so Tokyo (Fujita Kanko) provided the press conference venue and accommodation in Tokyo, Amandan Villa (Novarese) hosted the final dinner, and FMI provided specialized kitchen equipment. Mercedes-Benz also offered generous support. All of these contributions came from relationships Narisawa had cultivated through his daily restaurant management.

The characters for the Japanese title, "Shoku-do" (食道), were written pro bono by calligrapher Shizuo Ishizuka. In Japan, "do" (道), meaning path or way, has been passed down from master to disciple for generations across various fields. Following this tradition, Narisawa named the event "Shoku-do" (食道) to leave a mark on culinary history regarding the path food should take. What kind of legacy will "Shoku-do" leave in Ishikawa Prefecture?

Japan: A Fairytale Land for Them

In the ballroom of Four Seasons Chinzan-so Tokyo, a group of men whose appearance seemed somewhat out of place. Worn denim and unironed shirts. They all had their hands in their pockets... However, it's important to remember that these were the top chefs leading the contemporary culinary world and symbolizing the era.

"If you ask children where they want to go, they'll say 'Disneyland' without hesitation. But if you ask the chefs the same question? We'd all answer 'JAPAN' instantly." With these words of highest praise for Japan from Spanish chef Albert Adrià, COOK IT RAW commenced.

Organizers Alessandro and Andrea Petrini expressed their anticipation for the chefs' encounters with Japan's natural landscapes, satoyama, and satoumi, experiences they had never had before. The Governor of Ishikawa Prefecture conveyed his gratitude to the C.I.R members for gathering in Japan, especially amidst the sharp decline in international travelers due to the earthquake.

A Four-Day Program with No Time to Think

That evening, the C.I.R team headed to "NARISAWA" in Minami-Aoyama. As they arrived at the restaurant, gazing at Tokyo's neon lights from the seats of luxury cars, a satoyama landscape awaited them. Upon opening the door, the entrance was carpeted with autumn leaves, and treasures found in the satoyama were arranged on the tables. They talked late into the night, unconcerned about the demanding schedule ahead. It seemed the C.I.R journey had begun, slightly ahead of schedule.

COOK IT RAW is, for them, like Alice falling down the rabbit hole. Upon waking, a wonderland always awaits, guiding the chefs into a world yet unseen, a place between reality and dream.

A four-day program with no time to think. No maps detailing the land or guidebooks are provided. Following a roughly outlined itinerary, the chefs listen to their guides to find local ingredients and immerse themselves in a culture they have never encountered.

The Main Reason Chef Narisawa Recommended Ishikawa Prefecture

Upon landing at Noto Airport, the chefs headed directly to "Amandan Villa," the venue for the final dinner, before even dropping off their luggage at the ryokan. It was their first encounter with Japan's pristine natural landscape. The sight of persimmons vividly adorning branches of trees that had shed their leaves in a residential garden, and the irregular arrangement of diverse trees with scattered colors, were uniquely Japanese. The bus proceeded along a sepia-toned road and stopped in front of a modern building, a stark contrast to the surroundings.

A spacious living area with a high ceiling, a large fireplace providing ample warmth, and a beautiful lake facing the terrace. The modern kitchen offered a superb environment with a view of the lake across the dining area. This was a place to affirm their friendships and a battleground to receive critiques of each other's cooking. They picked up local ingredients prepared on the terrace, tasted them, and tossed them into the lake. Even such ordinary actions were not permitted in Japan. René Redzepi, currently the world's number one chef, was immediately cautioned. Afterward, René and Magnus Nilsson of Sweden were caught trespassing on private property and cautioned again. How restrictive they must have found Japan. But these were the rules of Japan. For the next four days, they had to live within these rules, for better or worse. However, any such anxieties quickly vanished, as wonderful encounters awaited them.

There was a significant reason why host chef Narisawa recommended Ishikawa Prefecture as the venue for the fourth C.I.R. During the Sengoku period, when the Maeda clan ruled this land, they focused on cultural promotion rather than warfare, led by Toshiie. In the era of the fifth lord, Tsunanori, a splendid culture of "one million koku" flourished. Utatsuyama Kōgei Kōbō, with which Narisawa had a long-standing connection, continues to uphold the Maeda clan's spirit to this day, supporting and nurturing excellent artisans in ceramics, lacquerware, dyeing, metalwork, and glass. Nevertheless, the decline of traditional crafts in Japan is a serious concern. Narisawa proposed tackling a concept he had long contemplated, not alone, but with his C.I.R brothers.

Fifteen Works Displayed in the Dining Room.
Indeed, This is the Collaboration Between C.I.R and Japanese Traditional Crafts

Host chef Narisawa first gathered traditional craft artists in Kanazawa City and introduced the work of the 15 C.I.R chefs. It was an unusual undertaking for craft artists to collaborate with chefs, especially for the world's leading, cutting-edge chefs. He called for artists willing to create pieces for them. In early July 2011, 42 submitted works were presented to the two organizers, with the artists' ages, genders, and careers kept confidential. While viewing the arranged works, the organizers envisioned the chefs' dishes and selected 15. Among the submissions were works made of Japanese paper and textiles. Several artists had never created works within the category of "tableware" before.

The two organizers awaited four months, anticipating the results of the creative synergy between chefs and craft artists. During this time, the chefs and craft artists exchanged emails to deepen their understanding of each other's work and foster mutual inspiration. However, this was the first time they would hold the completed works or meet the artists in person. The 15 chefs, 15 artists, and their creations were introduced. Everyone involved appeared uniformly bashful—understandable, given it was like a first meeting after an arranged marriage based solely on photographs. Gradually, the chefs, holding the unique tableware made just for them, began to proudly show them off to their companions. They then eloquently discussed the dishes that would adorn these vessels. For the gala dinner that would conclude the C.I.R event, special tableware for a once-in-a-lifetime culinary experience...

Sensing the Sensitivity and Energy Emanating from the Land

On the morning of the second day, a room at the "Araya Totoan" ryokan was bustling like the Sazae-san family. Gathered around the table, they were surprised by the abundance of items prepared for each of them—yudofu (boiled tofu), okayu (rice porridge), grilled fish, and onsen tamago (hot spring eggs)—nodding in appreciation as they ate their fill. It goes without saying that this breakfast greatly influenced the chefs' creations. They seem to have mastered the art of absorbing valuable culinary experiences without waste.

Without a moment's rest, the group changed into boots and ventured into the satoyama. The Japanese-made bamboo baskets and kettles looked surprisingly fitting. However, everyone wore perplexed expressions at the sight of black rubber boots resembling those of seals, contemplating how to avoid wearing them and regretting not bringing their own boots.

The sky god has always been cooperative with C.I.R. In the past three events, rain has rarely interfered. The rain that had been falling moments before ceased, and the chefs were invited into the forest. Passing through alleys lined with old houses, they entered the satoyama. The chefs' excitement was palpable from their walking pace. Everyone, like children, picked up plants and dug up roots.

Magnus, from Northern Europe where moss is eaten, immediately began peeling moss from a cliff, much to the bewilderment of the local guide. Alex Atala from Brazil, despite having had abdominal surgery only a week prior, descended to a river flowing between trees and peppered Narisawa, who knew the satoyama well, with questions. Wasabi growing by the water's edge... it was entirely different from the tube paste found worldwide. What is commonplace there becomes a world-class discovery through them. The everyday scenes in an unfamiliar land are the epitome of the extraordinary for us. The less prior knowledge one has, the more quietly one observes the land and senses the sensitivity and energy emanating from it.

Myoga, similar to ginger, the aroma of mitsuba, dokudami, wild wasabi... As winter approaches, the forest seems to offer abundant provisions for its inhabitants to survive the cold. In this rich forest, no matter how many plants the chefs collected, nothing would truly be lost. The plants likely felt, "Thank you for finally finding us."

In the Satoyama, Where the Structure of Sustainability is Complete

On a mountain path cleared for walking, Magnus was slightly displeased. "This isn't even a mountain yet!" he exclaimed, charging off-road. Narisawa chased after him, like a mischievous bear cub transformed. It seemed he had finally found something he liked. The palm-sized magnolia leaf, which would likely have decomposed into the forest floor during winter had he not picked it up. "Fifty of these leaves"—such an order is unique to COOK IT RAW.

On the way back, they discovered numerous nameko and shiitake mushrooms growing on logs lying between the trees. A legacy left by someone who once lived cultivating mushrooms in the area, they have now gone wild, yet still produce fine fungi. Occasionally, people enter the forest, and the remaining mushrooms likely become a feast for wild boars.

The forest can thrive only when humans intervene appropriately, without going against the natural order. Trees need adequate space to breathe, and plants require sufficient sunlight and pathways for wind to pass through. Numerous microorganisms and insects inhabit these areas, allowing birds and small animals to live without difficulty. Animals, too, can find ample food in the forests and mountains without raiding human homes.

The satoyama, with its complete structure of sustainability, captivated the chefs, as expected. Treasures found in the satoyama, along with unusual root vegetables and plants provided by the locals. Ingredients effortlessly express the essence of their origin. Just as we constantly seek out remarkable restaurants, chefs repeatedly embark on journeys in search of new ingredients. They experience "serendipity," and through them, leave their mark on history.

"Something only the chosen can encounter." The experiences of the C.I.R team are now bringing about a significant transformation in culinary history. Suddenly, "We want to head straight to the kitchen!" Who first uttered these words? Even during the lunchtime barbecue, the chefs called for the bus, eager to store the secret ingredients they had discovered in the treasure chest known as the refrigerator. There's no need to rush. Look up at the sky; the rain has started again. The sky god has always been cooperative with C.I.R. Winter cherry blossoms and autumn rain—perhaps these coincidental sights were inevitable for them.

COOK IT RAW
http://www.cookitraw.org/