Series: Wa-kyo Wa-raku | "Let's Do Our Best, Tohoku!" Part 1: A Report on the Great East Japan Earthquake from Nanbu Bijin in Iwate
Let's Do Our Best, Tohoku! Part 1
A Report on the Great East Japan Earthquake from Nanbu Bijin in Iwate
March 11, 2011, 2:46 PM. I will never forget this day. It was the day of the Great East Japan Earthquake, which brought unprecedented devastation. Many precious lives were lost, primarily in the Tohoku region, and there are still many missing persons, as well as those who are not even counted among the missing. I offer my deepest condolences once again.
By Kosuke Kuji, 5th Generation Toji of Nanbu Bijin
“We have lost power, so the Shinkansen will stop temporarily.”
We received many messages of concern and sympathy from people around the world following this great earthquake. In this series of columns, I would like to report on the current situation in Japan in the aftermath of this disaster.
On March 11, 2011, I was on my way to Tokyo for work, boarding the Hayate departing at 1:09 PM from Ninohe Station. My seat was 14C in car number 10. I remember the warm sunlight, reminiscent of a gentle spring day. Many passengers got on and off at Sendai Station. After leaving Sendai, the Shinkansen picked up speed and entered a tunnel. At 2:46 PM, inside the tunnel, the Shinkansen's lights suddenly went out, plunging us into darkness. The conductor announced, “There has been a major earthquake in the Tohoku region. We have lost power, so the Shinkansen will stop temporarily.” Gradually, the Shinkansen slowed down and came to a halt within the tunnel.
After stopping for a while, the lights inside the train came back on. The announcement repeated that a major earthquake had occurred and that all Shinkansen tracks were being inspected. However, the service did not resume, and after several hours, the lights suddenly went out again, plunging us into darkness. It seemed like a measure to conserve power from the backup generator, and I realized this would be a long ordeal.
My emails to my family went unanswered, leaving me completely isolated from information. The conductor announced, “Repairs appear to be taking a long time. This will be a prolonged situation,” and I had to abandon all my plans for the day, including work.
The Shinkansen was dark, with no lights. My phone had no signal and its battery was dead. The onboard sales of food on the Shinkansen were sold out, and I only had half a bottle of water left. Furthermore, since the Shinkansen runs entirely on electricity, the toilets could not be flushed, the heating was off, and it became extremely cold.
There were many children in car number 10 of the Shinkansen where I was. Behind my seat was a mother with a baby who looked less than a year old. Blankets were available in the Green Car, but there were not nearly enough. I offered my coat to the mother and child, wrapped the Iwate Nippo newspaper I had around my legs, and closed my eyes, curling up to pass the time.
Nearly 12 hours later, the first relief supplies finally arrived: onigiri, bread, bottled water, and juice were distributed. I was most worried about hydration, so this brought some relief. However, despite being hungry, I couldn't bring myself to eat. The pressure of the toilets not functioning at all contributed to this. Even for me, a man, it was difficult, so I can only imagine how challenging it was for the women.
There was no information, and the conductor's announcements were our only source. At this point, I had no idea that a massive tsunami had struck and devastated the coastal areas. My thoughts at the time were, “What bad luck. All my work plans are ruined. What on earth is JR doing?” Looking back now, I feel deeply ashamed. I was only thinking of myself, a truly pathetic state of mind.
Then, an announcement came through: “The safest place is inside the Shinkansen. Please do not leave the train under any circumstances.” I happened to glance out the window and saw many people walking inside the tunnel. Puzzled, I watched them. All Tohoku Shinkansen lines were designated “No Smoking.” Everyone who smoked had gone outside to smoke. I was impressed by their adherence to etiquette even in such an emergency. Relief supplies were prioritized for women and children, and we all cooperated to get through the situation together on the train.
In the darkness, it was hard to tell the time by looking at my watch. Approximately 20 hours later, we finally received word: “Rescue has arrived.” We were told there was an escape tunnel about 200 meters ahead of where the Shinkansen was stopped. An announcement indicated that rescue buses were expected to be made available there. I later learned that passengers on Shinkansen stopped on the tracks, not within tunnels, had walked to the nearest station after the earthquake. Our rescue was delayed due to the unique circumstances of being trapped in a tunnel.
With the prospect of rescue, the passengers, who had developed a strange camaraderie, rejoiced. We were told we would divide into two groups: one heading towards Tokyo and the other towards Aomori. Those going to Tokyo would disembark first. After some time, those heading towards Aomori were scheduled to disembark, but we waited for a considerable period. I wondered why it was taking so long, and then finally understood the reason. Bus arrangements had not kept pace, and although we were initially supposed to return to Aomori by bus, those heading in that direction were suddenly to be taken to a shelter in Fukushima City.
Would I be able to return to Iwate?
Amidst the uncertainty and chaos...
The group heading towards Aomori was finally rescued from the tunnel. However, while those heading to Tokyo boarded buses and departed for the capital, only two buses were available for the Aomori-bound passengers, which were insufficient for everyone. We were therefore transported in a shuttle service to a shelter set up in the gymnasium of a high school in Fukushima City. We had to stay at the shelter.
Upon arrival at the shelter, we were given bread and drinks. The gas and water were shut off, but miraculously, electricity was available at this shelter, allowing us to watch television. We were all stunned. Images of a massive tsunami hitting the coastal areas were repeatedly shown. Those from the coast broke down in tears, and many tried to contact relatives to confirm their safety.
However, mobile phone reception was extremely poor, and calls were difficult to connect. There was a long queue for the single public telephone. Having been confined for over a day, everyone's phone batteries were dead, leading to long lines in front of electrical outlets for charging. It was utter chaos. To make matters worse, news of the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant accident emerged, causing immense confusion at the Fukushima City shelter. Although it was nearly 80 kilometers from the plant, we had no local knowledge and were terrified of radiation.
I finally managed to contact my family via email. While phone calls were impossible, email worked. My family in Ninohe had also been through a difficult time and were in disarray. The power outage also made me deeply worried about the brewery. I knew production would be impossible without the boiler, and I wondered how the temperature in the koji room would be maintained. I was filled with anxiety about the pressing process as well. Amidst these worries, I wrapped myself in a distributed blanket and tried to sleep. The gymnasium was so cold it was hardly conducive to sleep, but I knew I had to rest my body to endure. Lying down in the cold, I couldn't sleep. That is the harsh reality of a shelter.
When I asked the JR staff, they couldn't say when buses would be available. They explained that due to the Fukushima nuclear accident, buses were being prioritized for evacuation orders. Furthermore, there was no prospect of the Shinkansen resuming service. In the end, the Shinkansen would not run for over a month. Many elevated sections had collapsed, requiring a very long time for repairs.
Unable to sleep, I decided to take a walk outside. I saw a taxi in the schoolyard. I approached the people trying to get into it. I learned that the taxi was going to Sendai and Morioka, and that three people would share the fare. One of them said, “There's room for one more to Morioka, so let's go together. Pack your bags and come.”
What incredible luck. Just when I had no idea how I would get home, a ray of hope appeared. However, nearly 200 people were still stranded in the gymnasium, unable to move. I hesitated, wondering if it was right to leave, but for the sake of my family and the sake of brewing sake, I decided to go. I quickly packed my belongings, got into the taxi, and headed north on National Route 4, as the expressway was closed. After getting stuck in a major traffic jam, we somehow managed to reach home. It was late at night, but reuniting with my family and confirming everyone's safety, my guard dropped, and we all wept uncontrollably. I realized how truly painful it is to be separated from one's family during a disaster.
It was a series of coincidences: going out for a walk, finding a taxi by chance, being spoken to by chance, the taxi happening to have a full tank of gas before the fuel shortage became a major issue, and so on. These fortunate events allowed me to return to my company and home quickly. Had any of these not happened, I too would have remained in the shelter for some time. Although I was finally reunited with my family, it was then that I was stunned to learn about the devastating tsunami damage to the coastal areas and the nuclear disaster that had struck Tohoku.
I intend to write about the subsequent events at a later date. As you know, the disaster-stricken areas in Tohoku, including Iwate Prefecture, are now powerfully moving towards recovery. We are persevering with the help of people from all over Japan and indeed, the world.
We will not be defeated!!
For the sake of future generations, to reclaim a brighter Tohoku, I will act for Tohoku with all that I can do and all the abilities I possess.
Let's Do Our Best, Tohoku!!
5th Generation Toji, Kosuke Kuji
Nanbu Bijin
http://www.nanbubijin.co.jp/