LOEWE Creative Director Stuart Vevers Interview
FASHION / WOMEN
May 18, 2015

LOEWE Creative Director Stuart Vevers Interview


LOEWE


LOEWEA Brand Story Told Through Touch


Creative Director Stuart Vevers Interview


One of the world's most enduring luxury brands, LOEWE's Spanish leather has been highly regarded by European royalty since the 8th century. The company was founded in 1846 by Enrique Loewe Roessberg, who named it after himself. We spoke with the current Creative Director, Stuart Vevers.


Text by OPENERSPhoto by JAMANDFIX




Forward-Thinking Innovation Rooted in Tradition


This is your first visit to Tokyo in a year, isn't it?

I visit Tokyo every year. Walking the streets myself, doing market research, observing the city's scene and the shops' scenes, I always find new inspiration. Of course, I walk around cities in Europe and elsewhere, but I feel I gain energy when I come to Japan.

Is Tokyo different from other cities?

Yes, of course. Why is that? I'm not sure if it's due to culture. But at least, I feel that youth culture supports much of the innovation. I think this is reflected in fashion as well. Looking at the retail scene, the products are very innovative. This is quite different from other major cities. I draw a lot of inspiration from it.

You have a remarkable career. What does working at LOEWE mean to you?

LOEWE itself has a wonderful story. I believe it's a brand built on that narrative. The story continues today, and I am proud to be a part of it. I hope I am ready to continue that story myself. I feel very fortunate to be able to work for a company with such history and tradition.
Indeed, I have worked in fashion capitals like Milan and Paris. And now, I am working in Madrid. This is also a great source of inspiration for me.

What is so special about Spanish artisans?

I don't really feel there's a difference in artisans by country. Both Italian and Spanish artisans are wonderful. However, working at LOEWE, I do feel a certain Spanish passion. The artisans approach their work with passion and love every day. Another notable point is that many people start their careers as leather artisans at LOEWE. This means many have worked at LOEWE continuously. Skills and knowledge are passed down from generation to generation. We have many artisans with 40 to 50 years of service at LOEWE. What they do, in a sense, is the soul of LOEWE.

I heard that bags without linings are something only LOEWE can do.

At LOEWE, we pride ourselves on the unparalleled quality of the leather we use. And the skill of our artisans is extraordinary. These two elements work together, enhancing the appeal. I believe this is the heritage that LOEWE has cultivated over many years.
We do have bags without linings, and if you see and touch them, you will appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship and the quality of the leather. All LOEWE bags are perfect, both inside and out. This attention to detail is reflected not only in our bags but also in our clothing, with many pieces finished without linings. Leather that is perfect inside and out is a hallmark of LOEWE. The stitching is also exquisitely finished, both on the exterior and interior.

The Leather Icon collection, which symbolizes this dedication, entered its second season in 2011.



The main appeal of this collection is, indeed, the material. Nothing can begin without good leather. The leather used in this collection is not simply called Napa; we call it 'LOEWE Nappa,' signifying its difference from other Nappa leathers. In fact, we only use five percent of the best parts of the processed lambskin. We select only the finest materials first. And then, we use only five percent of those. The leather itself that LOEWE approves is rare.




Honestly, sourcing leather of this quality is very difficult. Especially when it comes to apparel, the most important factor for the leather is lightness. Heavy leather is obviously difficult to wear. We process it to a thickness of about 0.7 millimeters, meaning less than a millimeter. We have two leather experts who make the final selection. For apparel, a person named Seamo is in charge. He is a man of strong character, and his passion for his work is immense.

Another thing we focus on is the tactile sensation. We aim for a smoothness akin to silk. Customers who wear these pieces tell us how incredibly smooth and comfortable they feel.

LOEWE has a long history, yet it feels very innovative.

People associate LOEWE with bags, and that will not change. We want to continue producing high-quality leather bags. Moving forward, we also want to focus on silk collections, such as ties. As Creative Director, I oversee everything. There are about 15 designers, and I lead and manage them. Where do I get my creativity? Ultimately, it comes down to loving my job. I have a lot of passion for LOEWE. I'm a workaholic (laughs). I genuinely enjoy going to the office to work.
Also, the source of my inspiration is the staff around me. As I mentioned, there are 15 designers. Sometimes they present challenges, sometimes they excite me, and sometimes they put pressure on me. Having such colleagues allows me to move forward. While I gain inspiration from market research in places like Japan, for me, people are the greatest source of stimulation.

What is your vision for the future of LOEWE?

For the future, I want LOEWE to be thought of as a luxury leather house, meaning we create exquisite items in terms of leather goods. Personally, working in Spain, I am moved by the people and the historical heritage there, and I have a passion for it. Also, the boldness unique to Spain. I want to convey these elements as part of LOEWE's beauty and as what makes the brand so unique and appealing.

There are many luxury brands from Italy, France, and the UK, but LOEWE is the only luxury brand originating from Spain. Also, I want customers to fully enjoy the feeling when they enter our stores. The sensation when touching bags and clothes may differ from person to person, but I hope they will greatly enjoy the unique LOEWE experience. While we use sewing machines, fundamentally, everything is handmade and not mass-produced. For example, a woman's Amazona bag takes one artisan eight hours to create. That means one artisan takes a full day to make just one.

Do you have a message for OPENERS readers?

It's been over three years since I took on this role, and since my appointment, I have been transforming LOEWE stores. Therefore, I would like to invite all our readers to visit our stores. While the essence of LOEWE, which has continued for generations, remains unchanged, please come and experience what LOEWE is today.

Stuart Vevers
Creative Director of LOEWE. After graduating from the University of Westminster, he met Calvin Klein in New York and began his career as the head of the accessory line. Two years later,Bottega Venetahe was scouted by the founder and owner, Laura Mottedo, and moved to Milan. As head of accessories, he was instrumental in the brand's revival with large woven leather bags adorned with guitar cases and graffiti-print tennis bags. He then worked with Luella Bartley, one of London's most respected fashion designers. Their eight-year collaboration produced various products, with the 'Gisele' bag achieving immense popularity and unprecedented success for an independent label. Next, he became the accessory designer for both the ready-to-wear and couture lines at Givenchy, creating the 'Macramé' and 'Pumpkin' bags, which were great successes. For several years from 2002, while managing Givenchy and Luella, he also designed his own line for several seasons. Furthermore, as part of Marc Jacobs' creative team, he led a busy life designing accessories for both men's and women's lines atLouis VuittonIn 2004, he returned to his native London and was appointed Design Director at Mulberry. As a key figure in the brand's revitalization, he not only created hit bags such as the 'Emmy,' 'Mabel,' 'Poppy,' and 'Roxanne Tote,' but also became responsible for men's and women's wear, with his apparel achieving a new cult status. On January 1, 2008, Vevers was appointed Creative Director of LOEWE. 'I am honored to have the opportunity to work with a maison that has over 160 years of heritage. It is my pleasure to work alongside LOEWE's skilled artisans, explore its unparalleled history, and shape the brand's future' (Stuart Vevers).

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