FASHION /
WOMEN
August 12, 2015
Terumi Hagiwara: In Conversation with Antonio Berardi During His Visit to Japan
Terumi Hagiwara's Fashion Days Vol. 70
Interview with a Visiting Designer
A Conversation with Antonio Berardi!
Antonio Berardi. Graduating from London's Central Saint Martins College in 1994, he quickly garnered attention, becoming a designer of great expectation alongside Galliano and McQueen. It has been 18 years since his debut. He has moved his collection from Milan back to London, and from next spring, he will launch his bridge line, "BERARDI," in Tokyo. We spoke with Antonio Berardi, who visited Japan for its presentation.
Text by TERUMI HAGIWARAPhotographs by TOSHITAKA HORIBA
"Creating something new is easy. Creating classics is harder."
Terumi Hagiwara (hereinafter, Hagiwara)You are very fragile, yet possess a strong core. What is most important to you when creating clothes for women?
Antonio Berardi (hereinafter, Berardi)“Contrast.” My parents are pure Italians born in Sicily. But I was born in the UK and hold British nationality.
The charm of Italian women is their sexiness and femininity. The charm of British women lies in their realness and masculinity. I understand both appeals. My DNA is also a blend of both. I believe that contrast is important.
HagiwaraYour Central Saint Martins graduation show was quite a sensation. You launched your brand at 26 and had a corner in a select shop. The London collections offer early designer debuts; did that expectation not become pressure?
BerardiCreating something new is easy. Creating classics is harder. It’s important to sustain the expectations for my collections, but those expectations have also evolved. They now expect a classic Berardi essence, not just novelty. I feel like I’m constantly experimenting in a laboratory.
HagiwaraYou moved your presentation from London to Milan, and then back to London. Why?
BerardiThe origin of my dressmaking is Savile Row in London. Tailoring. Moving to Milan was a coincidence.
HagiwaraBut you still live in Milan.
BerardiEvery morning, I wake up and look at the gray Milanese sky, thinking, "Why am I living in Milan?"
HagiwaraWhat do you enjoy besides design?
BerardiI don't have many days off, but I'm good at Italian cooking and often cook.
HagiwaraIf you had a long vacation, where would you want to go?
BerardiI'd like to see the subcultures of Mexico. I'm more interested in people than places.
HagiwaraWhat do you see yourself doing in 10 years?
BerardiMy hair will be grayer! I love my current work, so I'd be happy if it continues. But even the things we love must end eventually. I am prepared for that.
The passion of Italians and the coolness of the British. This balance is evident even in his conversation. "Creating classics is harder than creating something new." Times are changing rapidly. It seems the origin of Berardi's dressmaking lies here.
TERUMI HAGIWARA
Fashion Director
She covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections every season. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. She also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/