FASHION /
WOMEN
September 3, 2016
Terumi Hagiwara's Series Vol. 153 | Interview with Designer Kenzo Takada
Revisiting Mass Production
An Interview with Designer Kenzo Takada
Kenzo Takada was the first Japanese designer to present at Paris Fashion Week. In the 1980s, he inspired a wave of Japanese designers to pursue their dreams in Paris. He was active as a fashion designer for his own brand from 1970 to 1999. Now, after 15 years, Takada has designed original pieces for SEPT PREMIERES, releasing SEPT PREMIERES by Kenzo Takada. "Fashion isn't fashion if it's not glamorous," he says, presenting a collection inspired by his beloved peonies. We spoke with Takada during his visit to Japan for the launch reception.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
My Desire to Design Has Never Changed
—You've returned to designing clothes after 15 years. I heard you revived a mini-atelier with your former staff in Paris.
Kenzo Takada (hereinafter, Takada)I was nervous at first. It took a little while to recapture that old feeling.
—And once you started?
TakadaIt became fun.
—Looking at these pieces, I was reminded of your Paris collections.
TakadaMy desire to design has never changed.
—The prices seem much more accessible than your previous collections. Did you feel any disconnect?
TakadaAt first, I thought there would be many constraints, but I was able to use the materials I liked, and the final result was fine. I've always considered price when creating clothes.
—Your former brand was quite luxurious, wasn't it?
TakadaI never aimed to create luxury. My debut collection focused on cotton and linen, with no silk at all.
—Indeed, it had a natural, almost 'sauvage' feel. Do you think the vibrancy of the 1980s, when many designers debuted, will return to the fashion industry?
TakadaToday's young designers are very international. They exhibit in Paris, have joint shows in Shanghai. It's easier to work on a global scale now. I hope it becomes more vibrant. In my day, we went to Paris with a one-way ticket.
—We're seeing more young designers debut with haute couture rather than ready-to-wear. What are your thoughts on the revival of haute couture?
TakadaThat's certainly one approach. I think it's a new trend.
—For those tired of cheap, mass-produced items, it's about a unique, carefully crafted piece. Are you personally interested in couture?
TakadaI think it would be difficult for me personally. Dealing with each client individually... that sounds very demanding.
After the Interview...
Takada is my senior from Bunka Fashion College's design department. During my student days, my catchphrase was 'Aiming to be like Kenzo Takada.' Takada established himself in Paris, showcasing the presence of Japanese designers. He was active from the 1970s, a time of transition from couture to ready-to-wear. He is, fundamentally, a ready-to-wear designer.
Kenzo Takada
1939 Born in Hyogo Prefecture
1960 Graduated from Bunka Fashion College, Design Department
1964 Moved to France
1970 Opened a boutique in Paris and presented his first collection under the brand "JUNGLE JAP." Later renamed "Kenzo," he continued until 1999.
1984 Awarded Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters of France
2003 Began design activities as Kenzo Takada.
Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
Each season, she travels to the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. She also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/