FASHION /
WOMEN
January 19, 2016
Terumi Hagiwara Series Vol. 139 | Julien David Interview
Designer Julien David, on the Rise, in His Own Words
“Work is My Life”
Born in France, educated in New York, with an atelier in Tokyo. He presents his collections four times a year at Paris Fashion Week, and lives in London. His life seems to be a whirlwind. Yet, he himself doesn’t seem bothered, stating, “That’s just my life.” We visited this unconventional designer, captivated by Japanese textiles and street culture.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
A Visit to the Unconventional Designer Who Launched His Brand in Tokyo
Julien David, 37, is a designer whose star is on the rise. He presents menswear and womenswear at Paris Fashion Week, and his collections are sold in select shops worldwide—in Japan, France, the US, and the UK. Born in France, he moved to New York after finishing lycée, and launched his brand in Tokyo in 2007, making him a rather unconventional designer. Last November, he renovated his flagship store in Harajuku, and while he moves at his own pace, he is steadily gaining fans. We visited his showroom shortly after the Paris Fashion Week for his Spring/Summer 2016 womenswear collection.
—You came to Japan in 2006 and have lived in Tokyo ever since. You also launched your brand here, correct?
When I first came to Tokyo, I was captivated by the street culture. I love Harajuku. I wanted to use Japanese fabrics and insisted on making my clothes in Japan.
—Before that, you were in New York?
Yes, I went to Parsons in New York to study graphic design. But while I was there, I became interested in three-dimensional clothing, not flat designs, and joined Narciso Rodriguez's atelier.
—So, a couture-like approach to pattern cutting?
Exactly. That’s where I discovered the fascination of transforming flat fabric into something three-dimensional.
Mr. Julien David
—I see. So, with your own brand, you've blended couture aesthetics with Tokyo street style?
But launching the brand was tough. I didn’t know the language or the processes. So, there were always misunderstandings in my dealings with manufacturers, and I couldn’t make clothes. That’s why I started by making scarves, utilizing my graphic design background. And they sold!
—Your kitschy prints became quite a topic of conversation.
They did. At that moment, I truly felt grateful for having studied graphic design.
—While keeping your atelier in Harajuku, you moved your residence to London this year?
Yes. I just felt like living there.
—Your residence is in London, your atelier in Tokyo, and your collections are shown in Paris. Do you ever get a break?
A break? What’s that?
I only think about work. Being able to work is my freedom.
It’s my life.
Julien David’s Spring/Summer 2016 womenswear collection at Paris Fashion Week was held in the cloister of the courtyard at the École des Beaux-Arts. It was a pleasant space, surrounded by dappled sunlight and greenery. Denim dresses featured cotton bustiers peeking out. A pleated skirt with a print, paired with a striped shirt, flared out立体的に to the sides. The silhouettes were loose, yet impeccably constructed. With a focus on materials and prints, the collection had a relaxed, authentic feel.
The flagship store in Harajuku, renovated in November, is designed with aluminum and stone brought from France. At first glance, it appears rough, but it’s actually a shop with meticulous attention to detail. The interior design was handled by the French architectural collective Ciguë.
Julien David
Born in France in 1978.
Moved to New York in 1996 to study at Parsons.
Launched his brand in Tokyo in 2007.
Debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2011.
Opened boutique in Jingumae in 2013.
Currently resides in London.
Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
Travels to New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Blog http://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/