A Modern Take on the Robust Sweat Cardigan

LOOPWHEELER has always been selective about collaborations, even with offers from major fashion houses, choosing to work only with brands and manufacturers they truly believe in. RUMORS, an e-commerce site that has built a strong relationship with Mr. Suzuki, is releasing another special order item this fall/winter. Let's delve into the details of this cardigan and its creation, based on the exclusive sweat fabric developed for their previous collaboration.





SuzukiThe basis for this is LOOPWHEELER's standard sweat cardigan. We offer it in two types: the lighter fabric 'LW180' and the thinnest 'Extra Light'. These are based on vintage pieces from around the 1940s to 1950s. While we've made minor adjustments to the silhouette and used patch pockets, the design remains fundamentally authentic. Of course, it pairs well with classic American casual items, but personally, I'm feeling a preppy American style, perhaps with a cotton oxford button-down shirt and Alden shoes. For pants, denim is still my go-to.




──The pockets have changed from patch pockets to a seamless design, and they're placed only on the left side. Is there a particular reason for this?

SuzukiActually, in the first sample we received in May, there were still pockets on both sides. However, having pockets on both sides felt a bit clunky and didn't quite sit right. Also, the cuffs and hem ribbing were longer than they are now. Considering how it would be styled with more elegant outfits, we concluded that a bolder, simpler approach was needed. Since patch pockets have a strong presence, we opted for a flat design to emphasize subtlety.





MatsumotoWhen pairing with wool trousers, shorter ribbing provides a cleaner finish. While fashion connoisseurs might be able to pull off the traditional rib length, it's not easy for everyone (laughs). Even with the first sample, we aimed to shorten the ribbing overall, but it still felt somewhat incomplete. The hem, in particular, needed a more drastic change. This then made us consider the 'negative space' around the pockets and hem. So, compared to the first sample, we actually lowered the position of the pockets. By omitting the right pocket, it created a sense of openness at the front, resulting in a more refined impression.

The Special Collaboration Continues

──From what you've told me, it sounds like the production process went quite smoothly.

SuzukiSince we collaborated before, this time it felt much more like we were in sync, almost telepathic. Mr. Matsumoto's requests are very clear, and he shows great respect for our work, which makes it very easy to collaborate. We also used the same material as before, so that aspect also contributed to a smooth process.

MatsumotoLOOPWHEELER's sweatshirts are truly exceptional, from the technology of their loopwheel machines to the sewing. They are the real deal. We then ask them to embody RUMORS' essence, or rather, my own vision. Moreover, Mr. Suzuki has years of hands-on experience, having said he's 'made everything except tailored garments.' He's worked with designers from numerous brands and has the experience to handle challenging situations. So, before I even had to ask, he'd suggest changes to the seams. He understands my requests intuitively and can resolve them with ease (laughs).






──How do you envision styling this cardigan?

MatsumotoAs I mentioned earlier, this is a special model created with the intention of pairing it with dress pants. We aimed for a cardigan that would look perfectly at home with Italian brands like Incotex or G.T.A. Of course, we've retained its inherent compatibility with denim. In essence, I believe we've created a rare sweat cardigan that bridges the gap between dress casual and American casual, fitting a wide range of styles.

SuzukiWhile sweat cardigans are not yet widely offered by many brands, I believe their popularity is set to grow. This item is definitely ahead of the curve. Mr. Matsumoto has modernized it considerably, so I'm confident it will appeal to those with a wardrobe leaning towards more refined pieces.

MatsumotoRecently, we've seen a significant increase in international access to Openers and RUMORS. LOOPWHEELER also enjoys a cult following overseas, being carried by stores like Colette in France. In fact, when we featured the previous collaboration hoodie, we received more inquiries from abroad than domestically. I'm confident that this piece will also be well-received by Europeans. It would be wonderful if we could continue to share the excellence of Japanese artisans and brands, not only within Japan but also internationally.

──Will you be offering special orders next season as well?



──Thank you very much.


LOOPWHEELER
http://www.loopwheeler.co.jp/


SUZUKI Satoshi
Born in Shizuoka Prefecture in 1959. After graduating from Hosei University, he entered the textile industry. Pursuing self-taught garment making, he launched LOOPWHEELER, a brand exclusively for loopwheeled sweatshirts, in 1999. Having been involved in the planning and production of cut-and-sew items for many years, he aims to pass on the high quality and philosophical aspects of Made in Japan to the next generation, backed by his extensive network, trust, proven technical skills, and production facilities. He is a sweatshirt specialist who continues to research vintage sweatshirts, as well as technical aspects such as old loopwheel machines and knitting methods.

MATSUMOTO Hiroyuki
Born in 1969. After gaining experience in editing and sales for a car magazine during his student years, he joined World Photo Press Co., Ltd., where he was assigned to the advertising sales department. He was involved in numerous magazines, including 'World Watch' and 'Mono Magazine.' After leaving the company in 2005, he worked as a production producer for 'SHIBUYA-FM' and consulted on apparel brand product development. In 2006, he co-founded Seven Seas Co., Ltd., launching 'Openers' and 'RUMORS.' He possesses a wide network across various industries, not just fashion. He currently serves as Managing Director of the company and is also the MD for RUMORS.