A New John Lobb Born from its Origins

—To begin, what are your thoughts after the debut at "London Collections: Men"?

I feel very good now that the presentation is successfully over. It's still early days for John Lobb, and there's much more to do, but we're starting to see a clear direction. This involves creating a "language" to talk about John Lobb, encompassing not just the shoes but also the brand logo and packaging. However, John Lobb's origins are very clear, so I believe we can move forward with a defined purpose.

—The presentation was met with shock by many media outlets. What kind of reactions did you receive?

What pleased me the most were the reactions from the Northampton craftsmen. When I first joined the brand, they saw me as an outsider, an alien, or someone from outer space (laughs), so it took time to build a relationship. As the brand's vision became clearer, I felt their excitement about being involved in the new collection, which gave me a sense of satisfaction.

—What was the craftsmen's reaction like?

A new energy was born within the workshop, and everyone noticed the change. They are always calm and composed, and they work at John Lobb with pride, but I am very happy that a warm sense of unity, like that of a family or community, has been fostered.

What I Value Most Are the Facts

—Around 200 media representatives from around the world attended the presentation. What was their reaction?

Many media outlets asked if John Lobb had been reborn. I was delighted that they were as surprised as I was when I learned about founder John Lobb's journey to London at the age of 22, and discovered various things through my research.

The research took about four months. I actually visited Cornwall in the southwest of England, John Lobb's hometown, and examined family archives, old receipts, ledgers, and postcards. This allowed me to connect with his origins and the stories that shaped the brand.

John Lobb is a brand with a rich heritage, and I carry a great responsibility. However, often, artistic directors or creative directors who join a brand from the outside make decisions that deviate from the brand's essence. What I value most are the facts, and I emphasize presenting facts, even in the design process.

The Task of Conveying John Lobb's Concept of Beauty

—One surprising change is the modification of the brand logo, isn't it?

Yes. We are changing it to the John Lobb logo found on original packaging in the archives. The original logo was beautiful, chic, and had a solid British feel.

—And the yellow, John Lobb's image color, is also changing?

That's right. While John Lobb is synonymous with yellow, we are changing the color, taking inspiration from the original packaging. The John Lobb archives are a treasure trove for me; everything was both traditional and full of innovation. My role now is to convey that story.

All these changes, including the brand logo and image color, stem from a respect for the brand's origins and are based on facts. I believe it's important not to change for the sake of change, but to convey the inherent concept of beauty that John Lobb possesses. Please look forward to future designs that express John Lobb's heritage and concepts.

A New Type That Pairs with Suits and Denim

—The sneaker "LEVAH" has finally been released.

Looking through the John Lobb archives, the prototype for these sneakers is a tennis shoe from the 1920s, manufactured in 1923. Gentlemen who wore bespoke John Lobb shoes back then apparently sought active, lightweight walking shoes and ski boots. Upon my appointment, I received many requests for "lightweight, casual items," so I created sneakers by reinterpreting the tennis shoe archives.
The high-cut version, "CULVER," will also be released in the fall. These are new types of products that are comfortable to wear and can be paired with suits or denim.

Continued in Artistic Director Paula Gerbase on the New John Lobb (2)

Paula Gerbase
After building her career at a Savile Row tailor, Paula Gerbase launched "1205" in 2010, a brand conceptualized around pure, restrained materialism. Emphasizing cut, material, and proportion above all else, she seeks essential elements as if finding silence amidst the noise, thereby highlighting traditional craftsmanship. In July 2014, she was appointed Artistic Director of John Lobb.

John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp