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March 19, 2015
Il Micio's Hideyuki Fukaya: Aspiring to Create the "World's Most Beautiful Shoes" | il micio
il micio｜Hidetaka Fukaya's Bespoke Shoes
Hidetaka Fukaya, a Shoemaker Working in Florence, Italy
The Pinnacle of Craftsmanship, Expressed by a Japanese Artisan in the Home of Fine Shoemaking
To create the world's most beautiful shoes. Shoemaker Hidetaka Fukaya has harbored this dream since his teenage years, dedicating himself to the craft. He founded "il micio" and, in 2005, became the first Japanese national to establish a bespoke shoemaking maison in Italy. Since then, he has produced a succession of creations so unique they could be considered works of art. This article delves into the source of his inspiration.
Text by Morito IWANAGA (OPENERS)
Pursuing a Unique Approach to Shoemaking
Florence, the cradle of art. This city, which gave birth to artistic geniuses like Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo, still breathes with the tradition of craftsmanship and is imbued with a spirit of creation.
Shoemaker Hidetaka Fukaya moved to Florence in 1999, embarking on his journey to fulfill his lifelong ambition of shoemaking. The brand he established is named "il micio." In Italian, this means "kitten," a name that embodies his desire to pursue his own shoemaking philosophy, much like a cat—noble, independent, and free-spirited.
He was driven by a strong desire to create shoes that were inimitable, uniquely his own. With this conviction, he opened his bespoke shoemaking maison in Italy in 2005, the first Japanese national to do so.
Shoes from il micio are crafted entirely to order. Fukaya oversees every step, from measurement to finishing. Each pair, made to the individual client's specifications, offers a glove-like fit, supple lines, and elegant design, captivating not only the wearer but also all who behold them.
Fukaya presents two pairs from his collection. The first is a wingtip model made from a rare leather known as "Russian Reindeer," a style that has been part of his repertoire since the brand's inception. This reindeer hide, tanned using a technique from the Tsarist Russian era, is a material that is now virtually impossible to obtain. Despite the challenges in working with it, this particular pair, with its luxurious, untamed appearance and beautifully sculpted form, possesses an overwhelming presence.
The second pair is a wholecut shoe that resembles finely carved hardwood. The material is cowhide treated with a technique inspired by "Arimatsu Shibori," a traditional Japanese tie-dyeing method used for kimonos. Fukaya, originally from Aichi Prefecture, commissioned artisans to apply this local craft to the leather. Specifically, the "Arashi Shibori" (storm tie-dye) technique, said to represent the intensity of a storm, was used. To highlight the inherent beauty of the material, the design is kept minimal, allowing the elegance of the shoe's silhouette to shine.
An Exhibition of Art Pieces Commemorating the 10th Anniversary
January 2015 marked the 10th anniversary of Fukaya establishing his bespoke shoemaking business in Europe as the first Japanese national. To commemorate this milestone, he presented a comprehensive exhibition of his work at the Marino Marini Museum in Florence.
His guiding principle is to "do what no one else is doing, something interesting." With this in mind, he conceived of an exhibition of shoe sculptures. The process of shaping lasts for shoemaking bears a strong resemblance to sculpting. When he discussed this idea with Alberto, the museum's director and a long-time acquaintance, he received enthusiastic support, leading to the realization of this unique exhibition.
The theme was "Birth," exploring various human emotions such as "rebellion" and "screaming" through the medium of shoes. The artworks drew upon not only sculpting techniques applied to wood and bronze but also the skills honed through his regular shoemaking practice. The exhibition was a testament to his creativity, brilliantly challenging our preconceived notions.
Fukaya continues to evolve in Florence, pursuing his artistic vision as both a craftsman and an artist. He describes his pursuit of "the world's most beautiful shoes" as creating footwear that embodies design, balance, impeccable technique, and, above all, brings immense joy to the wearer. When you slip on a pair of il micio shoes, you will undoubtedly understand the profound meaning behind his words.
il micio di Fukaya Hidetaka
Via de'Federighi 6R, 50123 Firenze Italia
Tel. +39 (0)55-212-295
info@ilmicio.com
Hidetaka FUKAYA
Born in Tokai City, Aichi Prefecture, in 1974. He enrolled in Nagoya Mode Gakuen, where he apprenticed under Shuntaro Matsuda, a shoemaker in Nagoya, and began learning the craft. After graduating at the top of his class and receiving the "Creator of the Year" award, he moved to Tokyo to work as a designer for "Kensho Abe." In 1998, he moved to Italy to further his shoemaking studies, apprenticing under Alessandro Stella in Siena. In 1999, he relocated to Florence and launched the brand "il micio." From 2003, he designed shoes for "TIE YOUR TIE," a long-established select shop in Florence. In 2005, he opened his own shop in Florence.