ABOUT PATCHY CAKE EATER

Patchy Cake Eater is a brand founded in 2012 by designer Shigenori Morino. The name, meaning "a man full of patches," perfectly encapsulates the brand's essence. Morino, who had a diverse career before becoming a designer, draws from his background. The brand's "patchwork" aesthetic comes from its blend of vintage and contemporary elements, built upon high-quality materials and expert tailoring. The "gentle man" aspect refers to the delicate elegance inspired by how women look when wearing men's clothing.


The brand debuted at Tokyo Collection in 2013 and has also participated in Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy, establishing itself as one of the globally recognized Japanese brands.

A Collaboration Spanning Japan and Italy

Pitti Uomo, one of the most significant global events in menswear, attracts leading brands, top journalists, and buyers from around the world. It was here that L'Officiel Director Gianluca Cantaro first noticed Patchy Cake Eater. His friendship with Shigenori Morino deepened, leading to a collaborative collection project. In this interview, Gianluca and Morino discuss their encounter, friendship, and collaboration.

—Could you tell us about how you two met, your interactions, and how this collaboration came about?

A little while later, I was contacted by a Japanese acquaintance living in Milan who said they were holding a package for me. When I went to pick it up, it was that coat I'd noticed at Pitti! That's how I started communicating with Morino personally.

Actually, I've always loved Japan and visit for several weeks every summer. So, we agreed to meet the next time I was in Japan. I visited this summer, we met in Tokyo, had dinner, and I really hit it off with him and the rest of the staff.

We're all passionate about fashion, so our conversations naturally turned to clothing. During one of these discussions, they asked if I could offer some advice. I had just left my previous role at L'Uomo Vogue and was transitioning to L'Officiel, so the timing felt right. What started as a friendship has now led to this collaborative project.

As I listened to Gianluca's thoughts on fashion, I began to feel that I wanted to learn from someone like him. I think the conversation started around 2 or 3 in the morning at a soba restaurant (laughs).

—What was it about each other that attracted you?

GianlucaThe appeal of Patchy Cake Eater lies in the eccentric twist within its tailored aesthetic. I appreciate the blend of high-quality craftsmanship and modernity. I'm a big fan of this style, so I was captivated from the first moment I saw it.

MorinoSo, I thought it would be wonderful to create clothes with someone like him in mind as a model, and have him actually wear them.—A sort of "luxurious hobby," perhaps?

Page 2: The Completed Collaboration Jacket

—How did the actual production of the collaborative model proceed?

MorinoI always focus on materials when creating collections, and this project began when the fabrics for the Autumn/Winter 2015-16 season became available. We're using exclusive Japanese-made materials. First, we selected his favorite fabrics and colors from the available options. Then, using a sample model as a base, we adjusted the silhouette, fit, and details through discussion.

—Specifically, what kind of exchanges took place, and what was the final result?

MorinoThe theme was a sophisticated take on adult school style, not overly traditional, and a European-inspired formal suit that wasn't too serious, incorporating patterns like houndstooth and glen check. Among the fabric samples, I was drawn to the wool with 24-karat gold threads and multicolored stripes, as well as various checks. Gianluca and I chose these as the main options.

For a three-piece suit, going without a tie could also work well. In terms of coordination, perhaps a three-piece check suit in orange-brown paired with a light pink or light blue shirt. Or for a school-style jacket, a combination of classic colors like burgundy or navy pants with a dark green vest.

Regarding the fabrics, I particularly liked the gray stripe series that Morino proposed. The stripes are neither too thin nor too thick, striking a balance between classic and not overly serious. This light gray tone seems versatile enough for both dressy and casual occasions. I also considered a striped white fabric, which gave me a "Great Gatsby"-esque vibe for dressing up, but it felt a bit too much – it would limit where it could be worn.

GianlucaFor the shape, I wanted something comfortable – fitted, but not too slim. The charm of Patchy Cake Eater lies in its tailor-made feel combined with ease of wear. I believe this comes from the handmade details throughout. So, while my measurements were adjusted slightly, I didn't request any changes that would drastically alter the silhouette.

MorinoAfter that, we discussed and fine-tuned the details to achieve the final finish. For instance, considering the school jacket theme, we thought about blazer-style gold buttons. However, I ultimately decided on simpler buttons, slightly thicker than those on a regular jacket. Gianluca agreed with this choice.

—What are your thoughts on this collaboration, and what are your future plans?

GianlucaThis project emerged from our conversations, and I never imagined it would become a professional endeavor. The process of two visions crossing and taking shape has been incredibly enjoyable.

MorinoAlthough this project started playfully, collaborating with someone with Gianluca's fashion sensibility has been a valuable learning experience. This model was unveiled at Pitti Uomo in January. It will be available exclusively in Japan starting in April, so please look forward to it.

Pre-order the Patchy Cake Eater x Gianluca Cantaro Collaboration Jacket

Neit PR
Tel. 03-3405-8836
http://www.patchycakeeater.com



GIANLUCA CANTARO
Fashion editor. Director of L'Officiel Italia and L’Officiel Homme Italia. After working for Italian fashion magazines such as 'fashion' and 'D la Repubblica,' he joined the editorial department of L'Uomo Vogue in 2007. Following his tenure as Vice Director at the magazine, he assumed his current role in September 2014. Concurrently, he lectures on fashion and communication in special courses at universities like Cattolica and Domus Academy.