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May 22, 2015
Designer Masayoshi Matsui Discusses the True Nature of "SISE" | SISE
SISE
Japan's Rising Star Heads to the International Woolmark Prize World Finals
Designer Seishin Matsui on the Essence of "SISE" (Part 1)
The prestigious International Woolmark Prize (IWP) has been a launchpad for fashion legends like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. This year, the Japanese brand "SISE" will represent Asia at the competition. With the finals approaching, we sat down with designer Seishin Matsui for an interview.
Photographs by TAKADA MidzuhoText by IWANAGA Morito (OPENERS)
Showcasing Japanese Fashion for a New Generation
—What led to your participation in the International Woolmark Prize (IWP)?
When we presented our collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, the Japan Fashion Week Organization nominated us, among other participating brands, as candidates for the IWP to The Woolmark Company. Subsequently, our past collection materials were submitted to The Woolmark Company, the IWP organizer, and we were selected after their review.
Initially, I didn't know much about the competition, so I wasn't particularly nervous. I only learned about its global significance after being selected to participate.
—Has your brand frequently used wool?
We've specialized in it since the brand's inception. Even when comparing knitted or woven items of the same type, I would always choose wool over cotton. For some reason, I've always been drawn to wool.
—What is your image of wool?
It's a fascinating material because its tailoring can vary even within the same factory depending on its properties. It strongly reminds me that it's a living thing (a natural material).
Personally, I prefer materials with a refined appearance. I knew wool was a high-performance material, but this prize has made me re-evaluate its functionality and potential.
—What did you want to emphasize with the work you submitted for the competition?
I wanted to convey that there are simple, minimalist, and excellent brands in Japan. The fashion created by our generation must be fundamentally different from the "Japanese fashion" that already exists.
I feel that Japanese menswear brands, in general, carry a certain character. I didn't want to be confined to just one of those characters.
While we take pride in what we've done so far, being recognized by a third party through the IWP Asian finals holds significant meaning for the brand's future development.
—While observing your collections, I noticed the distinctive pattern work and cutting.
My designs focus on silhouette and balance, with an emphasis on wearability for daily life. I believe this aligns well with the IWP's judging criteria. The competition evaluated not only creativity but also wearability and business viability, making it a highly meaningful event for us. There are many brands in Japan that are more focused on pure creation than SISE.
SISE
Japan's Rising Star Heads to the International Woolmark Prize World Finals
Designer Seishin Matsui on the Essence of "SISE" (Part 2)
Creating a Brand, Not Just Clothes
—What do you consider to be the "SISE-ness"?
Being daily, being simple—I think that's reflected in the silhouette and balance. For the past few years, my challenge in collections has been to create "simplicity that isn't simple." It's about creating a concept.
I believe there was a time when we confused "simple" with "not designing." By properly designing "simplicity that isn't simple" and embedding our identity within it, I think our unique character naturally emerges.
—What are your thoughts on your own creations?
Lately, I feel it's not solely my own creation. It has evolved from my initial ideas due to the presence of our fans. In the past, to embody SISE, my hairstyle, fashion, and lifestyle were all influenced by the brand's world, encroaching on my private life. Now, fans have their own interpretations of SISE. It's as if a burden has been lifted, allowing me to be more natural.
I didn't want to just make clothes; I wanted to build a brand. I've loved "Maison Martin Margiela" since I was a student. Even a T-shirt becomes something entirely different with just those four stitches. I wasn't looking for a T-shirt; I was looking for Martin Margiela's clothing. That, I believe, is what constitutes a "brand."
—Does SISE have a brand identity akin to the "four stitches" of Margiela?
It's still the silhouette and balance. While one might say it's simple and ubiquitous clothing, those who understand SISE also grasp the image we aim to convey and express it in their own way. That's what it's about. In a sense, it's a brand without a visible core or background. Many brands in Japan place importance on their background.
SISE 2013-14 Autumn/Winter Collection "HERO"
Of course, it's not that I lack a background myself. I once expressed it through a collection called "HERO," where I incorporated elements I love, such as the work of Larry Clark and Ryan McGinley, and music by Sigur Rós.
SISE's winning entry in the International Woolmark Prize 2014/15 Asia Menswear Competition
—Do you value inspiration?
Yes. For the IWP World Finals, my theme is "This Moment," expressing what I currently feel in a short period and receiving evaluation within that timeframe. Therefore, I created six design sketches entirely different from those for the Asian competition.
—We heard that the pieces for the Asian finals were also produced in a short period.
That's right. At that time, I gathered things I liked and topics that caught my eye in the news. It happened to be "STAP cells" and "2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil" (laughs).
—So you incorporate everyday life.
Yes. Reflecting the current times. Everyone is interested in different topics in the news, aren't they? I find that fascinating. So, what I feel and like right now is reflected in my work.
—Indeed, it's different from clothes that meticulously recreate vintage items. For fashion enthusiasts, it might seem like there's no background.
I capture the present moment. I never sketch designs in an office. That's why I don't have sewing machines or mannequins.
—When do design ideas come to you?
When I'm out and about, or watching a movie, I jot down notes. Or when I'm talking with friends who are working hard in other industries. Rather than daydreaming, I tend to gain inspiration from experiences. I don't lock myself away to force out ideas. If I feel that's necessary, I simply stop. It does put some burden on my staff, though (laughs).
—What are your aspirations for the IWP World Finals?
I had never participated in competitions before. I couldn't understand being judged by others, especially by peers judging peers. I preferred to be seen by buyers. However, this competition also evaluates the business and real-world aspects. If I can showcase that, I intend to give it my all.
I feel like I can't return to Japan unless I win the Grand Prix! That's the mindset I have. Since the Asian finals, I've only been thinking about the Grand Prix. That hasn't changed.
International Woolmark Prize
http://www.merino.com/jp/fashion/international-woolmark-prize/
Seishin Matsui
After graduating from Bunka Fashion College in 2007, he launched the brand "SISE." The brand's motto is "innocent" x "insanity" = "SISE." He debuted at Tokyo Collection in 2010. In 2011, he presented "TADORI - tan -" by mugamiyahara x SISE. In 2012, SISE came under the Mark Stylers umbrella. He became independent in 2014 and established "S. I. S. E" Inc.
https://www.sise.jp/