FASHION /
MEN
December 26, 2014
A Masterpiece Jacket Dedicated to Le Corbusier | Berluti
Berluti
The Third-Generation Head of Arnys on the Charm of the 'Forestière'
A Masterpiece Jacket Dedicated to Le Corbusier
About a year has passed since Berluti integrated Arnys, a Parisian atelier. To commemorate this, Jean Grandbère, the third-generation head of Arnys, visited the Berluti Ginza store. We will explore the charm and story behind the masterpiece jacket 'Forestière,' which has evolved through a collaboration between Berluti's designer Alessandro and the head of Arnys.
Text by ITO Yuji (OPENERS)
The Value of the 'Forestière' for Arnys
When discussing the 'Forestière' jacket, born from a commission by Le Corbusier, it's essential to first touch upon the history of Arnys. Arnys established its premises on Rue de Sèvres, near Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the Left Bank of the Seine in Paris, in 1933. The founder, a tailor, earned immense trust from the Parisian sophisticates, the artists of the era, through his exceptional craftsmanship.
Furthermore, as the tailor's location was close to Montparnasse, where they lived, the shop also served as a salon frequented by cultural figures like Picasso and Cocteau.
Among those who gathered there was the architect Le Corbusier, who taught at the Sorbonne. He commissioned Léon Grandbère, the founder's son, to create a 'jacket that would allow him to raise his arms easily while writing on a blackboard.' The inspiration for this tailoring came from the jacket worn by a gamekeeper. In the monochrome film 'The Rules of the Game,' Édouard de Max, playing the gamekeeper, actually wears the 'Forestière.' The design, created with the practicality of aiming a gun and moving through fields and mountains in mind, possessed a functionality that aligned with Le Corbusier's request. Additionally, Léon Grandbère drew inspiration from the sleeves, known as 'Pivo,' designed by his father in 1920. These sleeves, with their very wide armholes, were inspired by kimono sleeves and featured a characteristic that prevented the jacket hem from rising when the arms were raised, by being slightly offset from the center.
The Gamekeeper's Jacket and Sleeves Designed by His Father
With these two elements in hand, the tailor crafted a jacket for Le Corbusier from black cotton corduroy. The garment, lined with black silk matching the outer fabric, featured broader shoulders than conventional suits, a sloped shoulder design, and contrasting colors for the pocket trim and sleeve cuffs. This is the hidden story behind the birth of the 'Forestière.' Since then, in the 1950s, the 'Forestière' was sold as a suit with matching trousers, becoming a popular, highly versatile garment usable for both town and leisure. In the 1990s, Léon's son, Jean Grandbère, made further refinements. The design offered a comfort akin to the shirts worn by coal merchants ('bougnats').
This model featured brass ornaments engraved like gun triggers on the buttons, evoking the jacket's origins with the gamekeepers of the Sologne region. The patch pockets were sewn with a 7mm width to appear as gussets with visible trim, and a winter lining was offered as an option.
What Endures Through Time is the Mark of a Masterpiece
And then, in 2013, the 'Forestière' underwent further evolution. The protagonists of this transformation were Berluti's designer, Alessandro Sartori, and Arnys' third-generation head, Jean Grandbère. The 'Forestière' reborn through their collaboration retains the original details such as sloped shoulders, officer collar, patch pockets, matching fabric elbow patches, and two types of lining, while featuring longer sleeves and a design that allows for a stylish glimpse when rolled up. Alessandro also presented a model with a silhouette close to Berluti's field jackets, with his own interpretation, showcasing new developments for this timeless masterpiece jacket. The versions in four colors of cashmere corduroy, 100% wool flannel, and 100% cashmere are exclusive to the Sèvres and Ginza stores in Paris, while a jacket by Alessandro, made of double cashmere with leather trim, is available at all Berluti stores. Why not open the boutique doors in search of an encounter with the 'Forestière,' which evolves beautifully with the times?