JOHN LOBB | Tomoki Yuzuka's John Lobb "Chapeau" is finally complete! (Styling Edition)

JOHN LOBB | JOHN LOBB

Tomoki Yusuke's "MADE TO ORDER" with John Lobb

The "Chapel" Model is Finally Complete! (Styling Edition)

Fashion director Tomoki Yusuke, who had his double monk strap "Chapel" shoes, ordered through JOHN LOBB's pattern order service, fitted and decided on the pant length. He discusses TOM FORD and his suits.

Text by OPENERSPhotos by Emiko Hara

Double-cuffed trousers are elegant

Tomoki MatsudaThese "Chapel" shoes were made through pattern order, MADE TO ORDER. Have they molded to your feet yet?

Tomoki YusukeYes, they're quite comfortable. I can move my big toe without any pressure, and the fit is good. That is, if you don't count the pant length (laughs). As I've mentioned before, I once had a pair of custom-made shoes that were shaped exactly to my feet, which was terrible. Ever since then, I've been quite cautious about ordering custom shoes (laughs).

MatsudaIndeed, pattern orders based on ready-to-wear shoes offer a greater sense of security in the final product. Mr. Yusuke, what's your criterion for deciding between single or double cuffs on your trousers?

YusukeIt's a personal conviction I've had for a long time that double cuffs are more elegant, so I usually go with double. I just like them.

MatsudaRegardless of the trouser silhouette?

YusukePerhaps so, now that I think about it. This particular suit is the Buckingham model from TOM FORD, a classic black and white Prince of Wales check. So, I've leaned even more towards elegance.

MatsudaIt's certainly a classic, but it doesn't look merely orthodox when you wear it (laughs).

YusukeFor people with high waists like the British, a single cuff showing the ankle looks cool, but for our body types, double cuffs suit us better, or rather, single cuffs feel a bit lacking (laughs).

MatsudaYou mean visually lacking?

YusukeEspecially since I have a compact build, I feel more secure with some weight at the hem. When the top, like the jacket, is heavy, double cuffs create a better balance. Perhaps my sentiment is closer to that of Italians who wear double cuffs as a matter of course.

MatsudaI see. And the tailor for the Tom Ford suit?

YusukeHe's an Italian in his 50s. That's why we get along (laughs). I suppose double cuffs are the first thing that comes to mind for Italians in terms of formal wear.

The Birth of a John Lobb x Tomoki Yusuke Model!?

MatsudaYou met him recently when Tom Ford visited Japan, didn't you?

YusukeThis visit was entirely for the promotion of his film. "A Single Man" was a great movie, with excellent casting. People who watch for fashion might not appreciate it, but I think it resonated with those who love cinema. Tom Ford is impressive; he's very clear about what he wants to achieve.

MatsudaThat's certainly true.

YusukeI'm interested in him as a person – opening his own independent label, directing films, and so on.

MatsudaChanging the subject, would you be interested in creating a shoe based on John Lobb's past archives, tailored to your preferences?

YusukeOf course, I'd love to do that.

MatsudaPlease take a look at the archive materials next time. If you're interested, I'd be honored to collaborate with you.

YusukeUnderstood. I'm looking forward to it.