FASHION /
MEN
February 27, 2015
AS by atsuko sano | Inspiration to Navigate Past, Present, and Future
AS by atsuko sano
Inspiration for Navigating Past, Present, and Future with Ease
AS by atsuko sano, a jewelry brand based in Paris with a global reach. The brand's jewelry producer and designer, AS, is currently focusing on popular culture. This series, in three parts, will explore the common elements and appeal of both luxurious jewelry and accessible popular culture.
Photographs by WATANABE Hajime (diapositive)Text by ITO Yuji (OPENERS)
Why the Focus on Popular Culture Now?
“I’ve always been surrounded by people considered wealthy, as well as by avant-garde artists and creators from various fields. Consequently, while I felt a connection to architecture with centuries of history, classical ballet, and art appreciated by nobility, I was uncomfortable mingling with large crowds of ordinary people.
However, during my travels around the world, I encountered diverse local popular cultures and found myself receiving inspiration that went beyond mere traveler's curiosity. At that moment, I felt a sense of liberation, as if a contradiction within me had been resolved. By connecting with popular culture and theater, I realized that the world of popular theater, with its universal themes and fundamental human aspects, had entered the framework of my creations.”
“Today, I work directly with people from different cultures, based in Paris. In this environment, I feel that we are no longer in an era where jewelry is sought after as a symbol of luxury or a staple of high fashion. I myself am constantly scrutinized with questions like, ‘Is your jewelry authentic? Is it truly necessary?’ I provide jewelry in a setting where it could disappear in an instant if I let my guard down even slightly. Every season is a life-or-death endeavor, and it was during my daily pursuit of the next theme and concrete designs that I encountered the Koryu Troupe, a popular theater company.
They are athletes performing a different play each day, possess the operational skills to manage everything from backstage to front-of-house, and must embody their characters for the majority of their lives. I was deeply moved by this incredible world. The confluence of my diverse experiences and my encounter with the Koryu Troupe, which brought me closer to Japan's popular theater, all seemed to connect in a three-dimensional way, naturally becoming a motivation for my own creative work.”
Inspiration from Culture
“The same can be said for Art Aquarium, which I've been visiting for the past few years, but my experience with the Koryu Troupe of popular theater has brought me immense inspiration, allowing me to freely traverse past, present, and future.
In jewelry creation, what I cherish is guiding people into unexpected worlds through the universal power of jewelry. This allows the wearer to travel through time and space, and even to confront their past lives with enjoyment.
Engaging with the Koryu Troupe expands my imagination. At times, I immerse myself in a role, acting as one of the performers, or I might find myself in the patriarchal world of the Edo period, embodying a woman in a way that would be impossible in reality. These fantasies spark many ideas, and it's incredibly enjoyable. Furthermore, seeing a beautiful male onnagata (female role actor) allows me to feel like a man, and watching a charismatic male perform a solo act stirs my feminine heart, offering a sense of special hospitality and healing. While I am focused during the performance, afterwards, only a sense of joy and happiness remains. The sheer perfection of the entertainment is outstanding.”


Common Ground Between Art and Popular Theater, and Their Respective Charms
“I once spoke with neuroscientist Dr. Kuniyoshi Sakai, who explained that both the creation and appreciation of art are intricate functions of the human brain, and that aesthetic sense is a mental faculty that is part of our brain function. In that sense, both art and popular theater are forms of art, and I believe they are a form of communication where the viewer receives the creator's intended emotions through their own heart.
The way popular theater actors interpret the background of a play and the joy or sorrow of the characters influences the audience's enjoyment. Similarly, I believe that by experiencing and expressing the inherent power and universal worldview of jewelry, the creator can impact the emotions and life perspectives of the wearer.
Of course, people have strong preferences for or against any form of art; it's not something to be imposed on others. Therefore, I believe it's best for individuals to appreciate these works, which are brought to life within society, through their own unique perspectives and feelings. The joy arises when the sender and receiver can establish a mutual relationship in each fleeting moment.
Furthermore, I believe that a sense of universal commonality and a grasp of fundamental human nature are shared points. We are all fundamentally the same, and humans strive to live positively. I believe it is the role of art to convey this sentiment, and there is no barrier between jewelry and popular theater in this regard. I theorize that humans are programmed to perceive 'beauty' in the emotions that move them as a means to sustain life.”
New Jewelry from the "RIN Collection" Expressing a World that Transcends Time and Space
Inspired by popular culture, the new jewelry from "AS by atsuko sano" expresses a more powerful worldview with greater freedom of expression. This season's collection is composed of two lines, "Cosmic" and "Military," each imbued with the designer's sincere sentiments.
"Cosmic": Expressing Hope for the Future
AS speaks about the new "Cosmic" collection:
“What is jewelry? What are gemstones? Gemstones and humans are composed of the same elements, kindred spirits who were once friends in the universe. This connection explains why humans have worn gemstones as a form of prayer for thousands of years.
Moreover, in the near future, an era will arrive when we can easily travel into space. Considering this, the day we meet extraterrestrial beings is not far off. That darkness holds an irresistible allure for everyone. Therefore, this collection expresses curiosity and hope for the future.”
"Military": Expressing Emotions Amidst Conflict
“What is the spirit of combat? The power born from a sense of mission and resolve amidst the brink of life and death is beyond imagination. As a woman born in modern Japan, I will not directly experience this, but conflicts continue around the world even now. The clash of desires is ceaseless, and I have poured my pent-up, directionless emotions, accumulated from experiencing various things and cultures in many countries, into this military collection.”
AS by atsuko sano Jewelry producer/designer Atsuko Sano
In 2001, she launched a custom jewelry salon in Minami-Aoyama, focusing on jewelry as fashion. Subsequently, she operated a flagship store on Aoyama Kotto-dori for five years. In 2010, she moved her collection presentations to Paris, developing men's and women's fine jewelry. Her pieces are primarily distributed through cutting-edge select shops and specialty jewelry stores overseas. Direct orders can be placed via her website.
Read Vol. 2: "Accessible Art Seen in Popular Theater and Art Aquarium"
Read Vol. 3: "The Koryu Troupe and Arashiro Tsutarō: Hope and Resolve for the Future"
AS by atsuko sano
Tel. 03-5466-0502
http://www.as-by-atsuko-sano.com


