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March 12, 2015
OLIVER GOLDSMITH | Tomoyuki Tanaka (FPM) Explores the Appeal of a Coveted Reissued Model (1)
OLIVER GOLDSMITH
Andrew Oliver Goldsmith Visits Japan!
Tomoyuki Tanaka (FPM) Explores the Appeal of His Dreamed-Of Reissue Models (1)
In 1926, the first Oliver Goldsmith, Philip Oliver Goldsmith, began providing meticulously handcrafted tortoiseshell frames to opticians across the UK. During World War II, the company supplied glasses as a designated contractor for the British military. Post-war, the avant-garde and cutting-edge designs and colors of sunglasses by the second Oliver Goldsmith, Charles Oliver Goldsmith, sparked a massive trend, making 'Oliver Goldsmith' synonymous with sunglasses in Europe.
This time, the third Oliver Goldsmith visits Japan. At the shop 'Continuer' in Ebisu, Tokyo, Tomoyuki Tanaka, who calls himself a 'glasses face,' experiences the spirit of his craftsmanship.
Text by OPENERSPhoto by NAKAGAWA Akira
The models I've always admired are finally reissued!
Tomoyuki TanakaMr. Oliver Goldsmith, how many years have you been involved with eyewear?
Oliver GoldsmithI joined the company in 1960, so it's been 46 years now.
Tanaka46 years? That's incredible. Could you tell us the purpose of your visit to Japan this time?
OGThis time, I'm here to drink SAKE and eat SUSHI with close friends (laughs). For business, it's to meet with our Japanese production base to reissue frames I designed in the 1960s and 70s, and for the related promotion for the Japanese release. I'm also happy to see you again today, Tanaka-san.
TanakaThat's right. About a year ago, we met at a party where I DJ'd for an exclusive reissue event held only at the members-only club 'CELUX' within the Louis Vuitton Omotesando store.
I remember Oliver Goldsmith-san wearing a white jacket, and I had the impression that he was a very stylish person. Was the decision to reissue your old designs recommended by someone?
OGMy Japanese business partner, with whom I've been associated for over a decade, and I have always talked about wanting to bring our old designs back to the world someday. In fact, my niece, the fourth generation Claire Goldsmith, has already reissued sunglasses last year. We have two lines for sunglasses: the 'Handmade Line' by British artisans and the 'Japan Production Line.' However, I wanted to send frames out to the world from Japan, which possesses the world's best technology.
TanakaThe reissue of the sunglasses is also wonderful.
OGIn the past, there were many factories and artisans in Britain, but now there is only one repairer-like artisan. The handmade line of sunglasses is entirely crafted by that artisan.
TanakaThe UK handmade line is very precious. Today, because I knew I'd be meeting Oliver Goldsmith-san again, I brought a photo book I own. I love the photo book 'GOODBYE BABY & A MEN' by DAVID BAILEY, and in it, there's a photo of Michael Caine wearing black acetate sunglasses.
Not knowing they were his work, I had always admired what a cool pair of glasses he was wearing in that portrait. I was deeply moved when I learned they were Oliver Goldsmith's creations.
OGThat's a photo from the late 1960s. This model is scheduled to be reissued next year (2007), and the process is underway.
TanakaReally? I'll definitely buy them.
OGWe have a sample, so please try them on later.
TanakaI was talking with Atsushi Yanaka from Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, and we kept saying, 'It would be great if this could be reissued.' The shape is almost the same.
OGWhen the original was produced, it was handmade, so the way the material is cut and the sharpness of the edges are difficult to perfectly replicate with machine production. The ones Michael Caine is wearing are, of course, from British factories that were thriving at the time. However, this time, we have an excellent acetate frame factory in Gifu, Japan. Coincidentally, this factory was established in the same year as 'Oliver Goldsmith,' 1926. The artisans there are remarkably quick learners and have put a great deal of effort into the production. For example, I was impressed by how well they understood my explanations, such as the detail known as 'TV cut,' where the edge of the frame is cut diagonally towards the lens.
TanakaIt must be difficult for the next generation to create a taste that meets your approval.
OGOf course, there are aspects that cannot be expressed with the old British machinery, and we are particular about those. However, for this frame reissue, we are using the same thick, original 8mm material as the original model, and we are recreating details such as the robust 10-karat gold, 7-barrel hinges, gold rivets, and smooth surface finish that were used back then. At the same time, we are also releasing a Japan and Asia limited model that emphasizes fit.
TanakaI'm looking forward to that.
photo by NAKAGAWA Akira
With the cooperation of: Continuer
Calm Ebisu 1F, 2-9-2 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
12:00-21:00, Closed Wednesdays
TEL.03-3792-8978
www.continuer.jp/
The shop offers original eyewear from 'OLIVER GOLDSMITH,' as well as highly original brands such as 'OLIVER PEOPLES,' 'YELLOWS PLUS,' and 'REIZ GERMANY.' They also carry shop-original products.
