Measurement Focuses on the Foot, Not Just Size

Watching François measure, Hidetoshi Nakata remarks to Seiji Naitō, the fifth-generation owner of Gion Naitō, "When measuring for shoes, do you sometimes measure with bare feet and sometimes with socks on?" He continues, "I imagine that's the difference between an artisan trying to capture the foot's shape and one who assumes socks will be worn. It's interesting how even the approach to measurement can differ."

Naitō replies, "I also measure my customers' feet, but I tend to look more at the characteristics of their feet – whether they are bony or fleshy. I focus on the foot itself, rather than just the size. Geta and zori are quite forgiving."

What was surprising about the zori was Naitō's way of wearing them, with his heels extending quite far beyond the back. It looked remarkably stylish. "Mine are a bit extreme, but zori are meant to be made smaller and worn with the heel sticking out," he explains. Since it was François's first time wearing zori, they were made slightly larger than that extreme, with the size of the footbed adjusted and no straps attached yet.

How to Create a Stylish Zori Suited for François

After the measurement, the color, material, and height of the footbed are decided. "Normally, I ask about the customer's preferences and when they plan to wear the zori, then I make suggestions. For François, perhaps... how about this slightly raised design, where the wedge part, like in a shoe, is made of Japanese paper coated with lacquer?" Naitō proposes.

François picks up several pairs of zori, examining the sole leather and comparing thicknesses, before settling on Naitō's recommendation.

Next, the straps (hanao) are chosen. François intently examines the zori in the shop while listening to the explanation. "What are your favorite colors, François? If it's a solid color, a deep shade can be very masculine. For patterns, some people choose their zodiac animal," Naitō says. François presents a strap with a vibrant pattern that appears more suited for women.

"How about we make the lower part of this strap a burgundy, close to the lacquer color, for a combination look?" Naitō suggests. François nods enthusiastically. "Zori like these feel wonderful when walking on dirt paths or old stone pavements at temples," Naitō adds.

The finished product is scheduled to be handed over during François's next visit to Japan in November. We eagerly anticipate seeing the completed zori.

A Deeply Enriching and Fulfilling Time

François reflects on his experience in Kyoto.

"Thanks to Hidetoshi Nakata's introduction, I'm delighted to have visited the traditional 'Gion Naitō' for the first time in Kyoto. Learning how the size and construction of zori are adjusted with consideration for posture and movement, and how zori are worn differently across various regions of Japan – it was all fascinating."

As I spoke in detail with Seiji Naitō, I learned how challenging it is to source high-quality materials. The meticulous and beautiful craftsmanship applied to these precious materials, combined with the chosen colors and decorations to match the measured foot size, creates...──.

The differences from John Lobb's bespoke shoes were striking, yet the commonalities evoked a sense of kinship. It was a deeply enriching and fulfilling time. I've visited Japan 23 times, but this was a unique experience I couldn't have had before. It's my most cherished memory. I'm really looking forward to the zori being ready on my next visit. I might even want to buy a kimono to wear with them.

This was my 23rd visit to Japan, but it was a precious experience I had never had before. It is my best memory.

I am very much looking forward to the zori being completed on my next visit to Japan. I might even want to buy a kimono to go with them.

Hidetoshi Nakata Connects John Lobb with the Artisans of Gion Naitō (3)to be continued