Meticulously Checking the Standing and Walking Postures

It is said that about 90% of bespoke orders in Japan are for lace-up shoes. This is because the fixed notion that high-quality shoes are synonymous with lace-ups still holds strong. However, this time, Nakata chose loafers from his own unique perspective. "While there are various shapes and designs for lace-ups, there's only one kind of loafer! If you're going to make a pair of shoes for a lifetime, it has to be this one!"—Nakata and François Madinini, John Lobb's Master Last Maker, reunited in Paris.

The "Try-on" process begins with wearing the basted shoes, created according to the fitting, and then checking the fit while standing, walking slowly, walking a bit faster, and then walking even faster. François gives instructions to Nakata and meticulously checks the fitting.



Nakata's first impression was, "The leather for the "Try-on" is different from the finished product, so it's supposed to be a bit heavier when it's real, but this is very light."

It is possible with bespoke to create shoes with a soft feel by using a thin lining, but they are not as durable. However, they are very comfortable to wear.

Nakata commented, "Shoes made of soft materials can be worn somewhat comfortably even if the size isn't perfectly adjusted, but rigid shoes will hurt if they don't fit the shape of your foot precisely. That's why I believe that for bespoke, it's best to have a well-structured inner lining."

François Cuts the Try-on Shoes After Removing Them

Once the fitting was complete, the shoes were removed, and François began to cut the "Try-on" shoes.

When asked why he cuts them, he explained, "It's to check how the parts that were too large or pressed against the bone are positioned inside the shoe." Once the last is completed based on this fitting, one can order shoes with different leather or colors based on that last. However, he mentioned that different lasts would be required for lace-up shoes or boots.

Furthermore, the cut shoes were put back on for another fitting check. Wearing the cut loafers, Nakata laughed and said, "Looking at them like this, they resemble a new sandal style from John Lobb."

When asked if he had ever undergone such a fitting before, he replied, "This is my first time." To François's inquiry about any further requests, he ordered, "Black stitching." The "Try-on" concluded with photographs of the shoes being worn, taken with a digital camera.

Hidetoshi Nakata Visits the John Lobb Bespoke Atelier in Paris (Try-on - 2)to be continued