STUDIOUS | Masato Tani of STUDIOUS x Koji Udo of FACTOTUM: A Conversation (Part 2)
FASHION / MEN
July 24, 2015

STUDIOUS | Masato Tani of STUDIOUS x Koji Udo of FACTOTUM: A Conversation (Part 2)


STUDIOUS


STUDIOUS CEO Masato Tani x FACTOTUM Designer Koji Udo (2)


Why I Came to Wear FACTOTUM Often



STUDIOUS, a next-generation select shop, embodies the idea of “Japanese fashion style to the world” through its products and shops, with CEO Masato Tani and all employees committed to Japanese brands that are gaining high regard overseas (TOKYO brands). The conversation between Mr. Tani and Koji Udo, the designer of FACTOTUM, dates back 10 years.

STUDIOUS Masato Tani x FACTOTUM Koji Udo Talk (1)


Text by Makoto KAJII (OPENERS)Photographs by Simpei SUZUKI





The time from buying clothes at a shop to taking them home was also precious (Tani)



Masato TaniI first encountered FACTOTUM 10 years ago, when the brand debuted, and I was still a student. I remember it well because the debut was quite the buzz. While maintaining its impression as real clothes, in the past year or two, FACTOTUM has expanded its range, introducing a dress line suitable for people in their 30s and 40s, all while retaining its core identity.

Koji UdoLooking back 10 years ago, around 2003, the Isetan Shinjuku Men's Building was remodeled, Roppongi Hills opened, and GQ JAPAN was launched. It feels like fashion was in a transitional period then.
When FACTOTUM debuted, we were initially just charging ahead without much deep thought. Back then, there were fewer domestic brands than now, and the idea of buying clothes online hadn't really taken hold. As I've said before, the way people buy clothes has changed from 10 years ago; those who buy clothes at shops are also buying 'time'.

TaniIn just 10 years, clothes have become something we buy in the same way we buy books or CDs.

UdoThat's why people who buy clothes at shops are looking for a 'story' in the customer service, and they naturally develop an attachment to what they buy.

TaniBefore the internet became standard, we cherished and enjoyed the time spent from buying clothes at a shop to taking them home. Mr. Udo, do you have a preferred shop atmosphere?

UdoA calm space where I feel comfortable and at ease. While the shop's atmosphere, fixtures, and the style of the clothing are all important elements, a glossy, luxurious ambiance can sometimes feel unsettling.



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FACTOTUM's Natural Evolution into Five Lines



TaniFACTOTUM has celebrated its 10th anniversary. How do you look back on it?

UdoWe've consistently pursued a path of creating collections based on themes and journeys for the past 10 years. Starting with denim, T-shirts, and leather jackets, as I've grown from my 30s to my 40s and occasionally felt the need for suits, a dress line naturally emerged. Currently, we offer five lines: 'Homme,' 'Femme,' 'Denim Line,' 'Dress Line,' and 'Activity Line.'

TaniAs Mr. Udo mentioned, FACTOTUM has evolved naturally. That's why I've personally been wearing FACTOTUM a lot over the past year or so. The way Mr. Udo styles the clothes, and how customers wear them, are different, which is also characteristic of FACTOTUM.

UdoFACTOTUM is about real clothes; we value subtle changes enjoyed without pretense, and styles that remain consistent yet are updated. The expansion of lines reflects a shift in the balance of items and materials we want to challenge ourselves with. The reopening of our flagship store in Daikanyama last August was also a significant event.





STUDIOUS


STUDIOUS CEO Masato Tani x FACTOTUM Designer Koji Udo (2)


Why I Came to Wear FACTOTUM Often





A "New Wave" Felt from Nordic Lifestyles and Ways of Living



TaniThis season's theme feels like stepping into a new territory.

UdoFor the Spring/Summer 2014 collection, themed "UUSI AALTO" (New Wave) in Finnish, we introduced the keyword 'gender-free' for the first time, combining men's and women's lines.

TaniWhy was that?

UdoWe've previously explored America and Asia, and this time, we focused on the Nordic region as a societal model. Japan's current vague sense of anxiety seems to be about the future. However, the Nordic way of life, with its high awareness of gender equality and robust education, healthcare, and welfare systems, could offer an answer to our anxieties.
Furthermore, despite high taxes relative to wages, people there seriously consider their purchases, leading to a focus on making good things and using them for a long time – a fundamental principle that I felt.

TaniI see. And what about 'gender-free'?

UdoIt's essentially unisex, but primarily within the dress line, it's about wanting women to wear clothes that have a masculine feel.

TaniDid focusing on the Nordic theme change anything in your approach to creating clothes?

UdoFor this collection, we drew inspiration from a journey tracing the path of Alvar Aalto, the world-renowned Finnish architect and designer. We've reflected not only Aalto's designs but also the colors of Finnish nature. It's a theme born from my desire to absorb new things, but I also hope to one day travel through Japan and create a collection inspired by it.

TaniHearing directly from you like this deepens my understanding of the brand, and I become an even bigger fan.



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Unearthing Good Items to Create "New Staples"



TaniCurrently, STUDIOUS carries over 100 TOKYO brands. Brands that gain customer support almost always have "new staples."
For FACTOTUM, that would be denim, but brands that accumulate "bestsellers and masterpieces" that will endure are strong.

UdoFor us, staples serve as a driving force to continuously create better products, as we aim for real clothes.

TaniThat's why STUDIOUS's special orders often involve reissuing past items.

UdoUnearthing good items is a great initiative. It's actually rare to find retail shops that can share this kind of perspective.

TaniIn three years, STUDIOUS will celebrate its 10th anniversary. We're planning an event then to showcase the new staples from the brand's past decade.

UdoWe'd be delighted to participate. Your 10 years, Mr. Tani, must have been at a speed incomparable to mine, but your consistent positivity and forward-thinking inspire dreams in Japanese brands. I hope you continue to do so.

TaniThank you. I'll do my best.

STUDIOUS Harajuku Main Store
4-26-32 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Yoshida Bldg. 1F
Tel. 03-5785-1864
Hours | 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM
http://www.studious.co.jp/

FACTOTUM
http://www.factotum.jp/