MARGARET HOWELL: Takamasa Chiwaki on the Appeal of "Margaret Howell x Pegman"
FASHION / MEN
January 23, 2015

MARGARET HOWELL: Takamasa Chiwaki on the Appeal of "Margaret Howell x Pegman"


President of Alden's Official Importer, Lakota


Takayoshi Chiwaki on the Appeal of Pegman Shoes (Part 1)



MARGARET HOWELLCollaborations with brands that share the same direction as Margaret Howell's aims are crucial for understanding the brand today. The partnership with Lakota, the official importer of Alden, America's leading shoemaker, and the developer of its original shoe, Pegman, is also drawing attention. "When the collaboration proposal came, we examined it from various angles, and the result was exactly as we imagined on the first try. We received approval from the UK headquarters, and the special order Pegman began," says Takayoshi Chiwaki, President of Lakota.

Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by TAKADA Miduho





A Special Order Pegman Born from an American-British Fusion



Lakota has been the official importer of Alden in Japan since 1994, and next year marks our 20th anniversary. Alden's popularity has grown in Japan alongside the rise of select shops. However, we received many requests from customers of our directly managed store, Lakota House in Aoyama, for a utility shoe that could be worn on rainy days, was timeless, and affordable for casual wear.





I had also hoped to create one myself if the timing was right. Then, an uncle introduced me to a shoe factory in China specializing in hand-sewn welt construction. Their craftsmanship was excellent, so I brought a wooden last from Japan and, after about two and a half years of trial and error, launched Pegman, made with hand-sewn welt construction, using French leather and our original sole.

It's been three years since we started, and the materials and components, such as the leather, lining, and sole, which directly impact comfort, have been improving year by year. We now offer it as a staple, adding one new model each season.


MARGARET HOWELL | Lakota 02




For the special order with Margaret Howell, we emphasized Howell's signature aesthetic. The design is based on American military styles, using British lasts, creating a Pegman that fits with everything from denim to suits. Overall, it has the feel of British shoes, with a versatility similar to Alden—a special order that takes the best of both worlds.

This Season's Special Order: Chukka BootsThese are also based on Pegman's three-eyelet chukka boots, with detailed requests that have resulted in a pair with a distinct atmosphere from the original. Beyond the design, we encourage you to experience the enveloping comfort unique to hand-sewn welting, achieved through its exceptional fit.



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MARGARET HOWELL | Lakota 04




A Striking Encounter with American Culture and Alden Shoes



My encounter with Alden dates back to my high school days. In the late 60s, before the magazine 'POPEYE' even existed, I was a high school student fascinated by American-style fashion. My English teacher was American, which further fueled my interest in American culture and my immersion in all things American. In my final year of high school, three friends and I embarked on a month-long trip, entering through Anchorage, heading south along the West Coast, and staying in places like YMCA hostels on our way to Hawaii. Upon arriving in San Francisco, the hippie movement was just beginning amidst the Vietnam War. Young people had long hair, wore bell-bottoms, and sang songs by PP&M and Scott McKenzie—it was completely different from what we had imagined (laughs).

Before going to America, my teacher had told me, "Brooks Brothers has some stylish cordovan shoes." When I saw the penny loafers at the San Francisco store, they were stunningly cool. I later learned that Alden made them. I couldn't afford those penny loafers at the time, but I bought a pair of Florsheim shoes on sale to bring back. I've loved shoes since then. After graduating from university, on my way back from studying abroad in America, I acquired my first pair of Alden loafers.






MARGARET HOWELL | Margaret Howell


President of Alden's Official Importer, Lakota


Takayoshi Chiwaki on the Appeal of Pegman Shoes (Part 2)




Alden's Factory: Exceptionally Superb



My father ran a business supplying shoe materials, and I joined the company after returning to Japan. As I was also interested in shoe manufacturing, I attended material-related trade shows in Italy and visited factories in the UK, France, and Spain. In 1991, I established Lakota and began handling American apparel and hand-sewn moccasins.





An acquaintance was doing business with Alden in America, and since I was also a great admirer of Alden, they took me to their factory in Middleborough, Massachusetts. This was in 1992, and seeing the factory deeply impressed me. From leather cutting to finishing, everything was visible on one floor, meticulously organized with not a speck of dust. I had seen many European shoe factories, but Alden's was outstandingly superb.

At that time, there was no official importer in Japan. My acquaintance was an agent, and I became the importer, starting to handle Alden. That was in 1994, and next year will be our 20th anniversary.


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I've bought and worn shoes from all over the world, but Alden fits me best. America, with its diverse population from all over the globe, excels at creating comfortable, utilitarian, and robust Goodyear-welted shoes. This is perfectly embodied in Alden.



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Men's Shoes Reflect Personality and Lifestyle



MARGARET HOWELLI've long admired Margaret Howell's elegant yet relaxed style. It's a brand that feels timeless, ageless, and enjoyable to build upon. I particularly like how navy, khaki, and grey—colors I favor—are subtly reinterpreted in Howell's signature way, creating "obvious yet not quite obvious" combinations of design and color that I appreciate wearing.

Among fashion items, shoes, unlike clothing that can be professionally cleaned, require personal care to develop character. High-quality shoes mature beautifully with proper attention. That's why when I say, "Men's shoes reflect personality and lifestyle," people invariably nod in agreement. Furthermore, shoes that fit well can become lifelong companions, which is another charm of footwear. Please cherish and nurture them with affection.



MARGARET HOWELL | Lakota 09



Takayoshi Chiwaki
President and CEO of Lakota Inc., the official Japanese importer for Alden, one of America's premier heritage leather shoe brands. The specialty store 'Lakota House' in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, is celebrating its 13th anniversary. Next March, Lakota House is scheduled to open its first store in the Kansai region, in the Shinsaibashi area of Osaka.
LakotaHouse.com





Anglobal
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp