Focus on Strong Silhouettes Moving Beyond Relaxation

"Unlike Paris and Milan, London menswear is characterized by participating brands being keenly aware of their strengths and actively promoting them. From emerging brands to Savile Row stalwarts, and of course Margaret Howell, they are all brands befitting London menswear, communicating their 'preferred style' as a message."

"I also saw the Margaret Howell menswear show this season and felt the designer Margaret's unwavering strength in her preferences. While retaining the brand's signature relaxed feel, she has interpreted and incorporated the next trend, 'strong silhouettes moving beyond relaxation,' with suits, V-zones, and tapered trousers, as well as 'ink-wash' tone-on-tone colors instead of black, which felt fresh."

Murakami's Best Looks This Season

"The use of ink-wash color is particularly noteworthy, expressing strength without losing softness, even with thick, brushed British tailoring fabrics. I believe the 'strong at first glance, but soft upon closer inspection' coordination is a new challenge. My favorite look from the collection is the three-button jacket style; the color palette was a novel departure for Margaret Howell, a brand often associated with gray for autumn and winter. This season, many brands proposed a style of 'wearing formal wear in one's own way, with a masculine and refined touch,' which I think is Margaret Howell's interpretation of the trend."

"And another is the slightly oversized shirt style. The brand's appeal lies in its consistent offering of relaxed silhouette shirts like these. Even in a single shirt, I feel the brand's identity of 'being enveloped in comfort' is evident."

What to Look for When Watching Shows Now

What I prioritize when watching a show is whether I can feel the designer's personality.—"I focus on whether both the designer's authentic personality, which informs the clothing, and differentiation from others are present. Recently, fewer designers are setting collection themes; designers who translate their everyday observations and inspirations into clothing, such as Phoebe Philo at Celine or Chitose Abe at Sacai, are supported for their authentic expressions rooted in their lifestyles."

"Therefore, I often request interviews with designers not in showrooms but in their ateliers, as their individuality and the clothes they create come through from their daily experiences. Margaret Howell is a prime example of a brand that proposes fields of interest for designers."

The Keyword for "FASHION NEWS" is "Emotional"

There are many media outlets that report on collections, both in print and online. What we value most at the collection magazine "FASHION NEWS" is conveying my own emotions—my feelings—upon seeing the clothes, rather than just the clothes themselves. I want to convey 'I felt this way, so it was good or bad.' I believe that emotional reviews are the job of those who observe the myriad collections.

Since we can't compete with the web in terms of speed for collection reporting, what "FASHION NEWS" focuses on is the courage to make definitive statements. Particularly in our menswear and Tokyo issues, we feature a page where stylist Masahiro Murase reviews collections, assigning 'deviation scores' to brands and highlighting truly excellent or interesting collections. We also run emotional features, so please pay attention.

Murakami's Method for Viewing Collections, Revealed for the First Time!

"When I watch a show, I take notes. For each brand, I use one page and jot down notes in the order of theme, material, color, shape, and accessories. While the characteristics of each brand are important, one of my missions is to 'discern the direction of fashion for the next season' from the shows I see. By looking at my notes horizontally, I can understand the seasonal trends and get a comprehensive view of the entire season. I keep these notes carefully for six months."

"Now, there are two major trends in menswear for this Autumn/Winter. The first is 'suits,' worn not according to fixed rules but as one desires. Previously, suits conveyed formality, neatness, and strength for men, but on this season's runways, we saw entirely new ways of styling: head-to-toe monochrome, decorated suits with scarves, brooches, or tie pins, and looks that appeared sleep-rumpled or grunge-inspired."

"The other is the emergence of styles and items that can be 'shared' between genders. Previously, this might have been described as 'feminine men' or 'masculine women,' but this season it's more about a flat approach: 'If it looks cool, incorporate it.' We call this cross-gender, and it's a trend where if an item or material from menswear is cool, it can be adopted by womenswear."Margaret Howell"Their women's epaulet shirts were particularly stylish."

The Stature of a Collection Brand

"What I noticed this season is how MHL. skillfully expresses 'effortlessly chic casual wear,' and how Margaret Howell has acquired the stature of a collection brand. I interviewed the staff at the London store during the show, and they said, 'Participating in Collection Week, where we can properly present our worldview, and showing in our London store allowed us to confirm our position.'"

"Margaret Howell is a brand that ranks high for those seeking 'comfortable clothing.' They also present a lifestyle beyond just the clothes. Brands that resonate with people's desire to 'live surrounded by such things' are currently gaining strong support."


Kaname MURAKAMI
Born in Shizuoka Prefecture in 1977. After graduating from the Faculty of Education at Tohoku University, he began his career as a reporter in the social affairs department of the Shizuoka Shimbun. At the time, his beat was hard-hitting crime and accidents. After leaving the company, he studied abroad at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Following a "Devil Wears Prada"-esque life there, he joined INFAS Publications. He is currently the Editor-in-Chief of "FASHION NEWS" and a Senior Editor at "WWD JAPAN."
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