FASHION /
MEN
April 2, 2019
Tomoki Sukezane's Editorial Master Talk | vol.37 Shingo Katori
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Our guest today is Shingo Katori, talent and artist, who, alongside our Editorial Master Sukezane, directs “JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR.” We’ll discuss the just-launched Spring/Summer 2019 collection and what he hopes to achieve in the store going forward.
Interview by SUKEZANE TomokiPhotographs by MAEDA AkiraText by ANDO Sara (OPENERS)
JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR's second season: What are the highlights of the Spring/Summer collection?
Tomoki Sukezane, Editorial Master (hereafter, Sukezane)This is the second season for JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR. Shingo, what are you most satisfied with in this collection's finish?
Shingo Katori (hereafter, Katori)I'm satisfied with everything, but especially the shoes. As a fashion enthusiast, shoes are one of those things you can't help but buy a lot of, right?
SukezaneThey say style starts from the feet.
KatoriSo, being able to make shoes was a big step. Also, men's innerwear. I forgot to make those last time (laughs).
SukezaneBecause there was no innerwear, we had to close all the coats in the photoshoot (laughs).
KatoriBut this time, we've increased the variety, starting with shirts. And speaking of forgetting things, last time I forgot to make MINEDENIM slim pants in my size (laughs).
SukezaneSo you had nothing to wear (laughs). Those have arrived now. The Borsalino hats have also been further enhanced.
KatoriHaving had the experience of working together last time, I'm happy that we've been able to significantly broaden the scope for this Spring/Summer collection.
SukezaneAnd, it's the shoes again, isn't it? This time, we collaborated with ASICSTIGER to create sneakers for the first time, and the creative team was wonderful. Last time, with SANYO COAT and MINEDENIM, we were able to see the faces of the creators, but the creation process never moved as quickly as it did with ASICS this time.
KatoriIn fact, we only talked for about two hours in total, right? They drew sketches, found images and samples, and quickly brought them to life saying, 'How about something like this?' When they suggested making a box too, I was surprised, thinking, 'Wow! You can do this too?' It was a series of surprises.
SukezaneShingo's artwork is used on the box, reflecting your world.
KatoriI'm the type who usually throws away shoe boxes. But there are some boxes you just can't throw away, right? This is exactly one of those.
SukezaneYou really can't throw this one away.
KatoriThis box makes it difficult for me too (laughs). Even if it's not my brand, I can't throw it away. I don't think that happens often. I've bought hundreds of pairs of shoes, but I don't think you can find a box like this anywhere.
SukezaneIt's a wonderful finish. This time, we have ASICS, Borsalino, MINEDENIM, SANYO, STAIR, and ami alexandre mattiussi. And then there's wei.
KatoriI especially wanted to create cute women's skirts, so I was able to create something suitable for spring and summer with my art on them. They have elastic waistbands, so they should be easy to wear. I'd be happy if you paired them with your favorite T-shirts. Also, the sunglasses are a creation I'm proud of.
SukezaneThey're made in Sabae, Japan.
KatoriWhen I wear sunglasses this much myself, I can tell the moment I put them on if they're good. 'Ah, these are great sunglasses.' So, with wei, I was able to create sunglasses along with skirts.
SukezaneWith this, we're starting to complete coordinated looks from a single brand. JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR's spring and summer offerings promise an even more enjoyable store experience.
KatoriYes. We're planning to change the interior of the shop, and we'll also be rotating the books and photo collections on display.
Page02.What is the secret to shopping that you both share?
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What is the secret to shopping that you both share?
SukezaneWhat was your image when you displayed books in the store last time?
KatoriActually, I didn't have a specific image. I own a mountain of photo books from brands like CHANEL and SAINT LAURENT, and I really wanted to display them all. But JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR isn't a select shop; it's a permanent pop-up shop. So, I thought maybe it would work as decoration, but I struggled with the idea that it might be unnatural in a regular store, and ultimately didn't put them out. I felt it might be strange to display items from other brands in our own brand's store.
SukezaneBut you own them because you like them, so I think it would be fine to display them as part of Shingo's world. A Chanel photo book next to a Bambi figure could be interesting.
KatoriMaybe next time, I could mix in one or two.
SukezaneI'm looking forward to seeing how that turns out. By the way, do you have any favorite photographers?
KatoriThere's a photo book currently displayed at JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR, and I like William Klein.
SukezaneA master.
KatoriI also create art myself, so I never really bought or displayed other people's art or photographs. But recently, for the first time, I bought a photograph of New York scenery by William Klein, and another of girls in a makeup room.
SukezaneThey're lovely, aren't they? In black and white. I was invited to a French fashion photography festival around 1994. William Klein was the special jury president at the time. We had a dinner party, and William Klein went around to every table, greeting everyone charmingly. He was a wonderful person.
KatoriWow! I bought a work by that wonderful William Klein for the first time. It's the only piece not my own art that's displayed in my home.
SukezaneThat's nice. Where did you see it and decide to buy it?
KatoriIt was being sold at a gallery-like shop, and I decided on the spot. Like with clothes, when I decide to buy something, I'm quick. I bought that photo suddenly, too. Suke, how do you shop?
SukezaneI'm also incredibly fast. And it's usually when I'm not planning to shop. I almost never shop with a plan. If I want something, I'll leave the store once but come right back (laughs).
KatoriI understand, I understand.
SukezaneIf I hesitate for too long, I might change my mind. I often make impulsive decisions like, 'I want this.' Shingo, do you ever decide to buy something without trying it on?
KatoriYes. I decide in my head, 'I'm definitely buying that.'
SukezaneDo you ever try something on and then decide not to buy it?
KatoriThat happens too. In the past, I often bought things even if they didn't fit, but I don't do that anymore.
SukezaneBecause you end up not wearing them. Clothes that don't fit don't look cool. But now, oversized silhouettes are increasing, including loose coats. This winter, I wore coats that were perhaps size 50, but that's about it. Sleeves that are too long are still a no-go, right?
Page03.Art, music, and fashion are closely connected.
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Art, music, and fashion are closely connected.
KatoriOversized styles are really trendy right now, aren't they?
SukezaneThey've become mainstream. You've always liked oversized styles, Shingo.
KatoriI have a desire not to be seen as just following trends, but I've always liked and worn them. From my perspective, I never thought such a time would come (laughs).
SukezaneYou didn't, did you? You've been wearing oversized for years. It's true, I never see you in tight clothes. By the way, have you seen any interesting shops recently?
KatoriInteresting shops... This might not be the answer you're looking for, but when I had my first solo exhibition in Paris last year, I was surprised by the absence of Colette while setting up at the Louvre. It hadn't sunk in because it had always been there.
SukezaneWith Colette gone, the atmosphere around that area of Rue Saint-Honoré has become much more subdued, or perhaps lost its fashion-forwardness. The cafe directly opposite Colette saw its clientele completely change. Fashion people disappeared. So, does that mean you haven't found any surprising shops?
KatoriI guess it would have to be JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR. Suke and I wanted to create a shop where we felt comfortable and wanted to hang out, but so many people came that we can barely go (laughs). I thought I'd be able to pop in more casually, but it seems more customers than expected are visiting.
SukezaneThat's true. I try to go often, and I always stop by when I'm in the neighborhood. It's calmed down a bit now. I look around the store calmly and think, 'Ah, this is a good shop' (laughs).
KatoriI think so too (laughs).
SukezaneI feel the location is excellent, above all else. Shingo, do you have any plans for what you'd like to do in the store going forward? You sell clothes now, but do you have any other ideas in mind?
KatoriI think some kind of event would be nice. I'd like to hold 'NAKAMA de ART' at the shop, gathering young artists and selling their work. Or perhaps display art when JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR is low on stock.
SukezaneThat's a great idea. What about a fashion show?
KatoriA show! That's a great idea.
SukezaneIt would be interesting to do it at the store, but is it too small? If we do it, it should be big. After all, it's not fun without a fashion show.
KatoriLeave the fashion show to me!
SukezaneThat's right. Shingo, you have a career as an entertainer. A fashion show needs more entertainment.
KatoriExactly. Being able to do fashion, art, and solo exhibitions like this, I'm often asked about the differences, but to me, it's all the same. Nothing I've done so far has changed.
SukezaneThat's what makes JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR interesting.
KatoriBecause art, music, and fashion are closely connected. Even the 'show' in a fashion show is no different from the 'show' in show business, right? If that's the case, then it's no different from the world of entertainment I've been involved in for over 30 years.
SukezaneI definitely want to try doing something that combines all of that.
KatoriIt doesn't have to be something big right away. Let's continue to work together.
SukezaneLikewise, let's continue to work together.
Inquiries
PPP SHOP JANTJE_ONTEMBAAR
1-1-1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0011, Imperial Hotel Plaza 1F
03-6812-7106 (Hours: 11:00 AM - 7:00 PM)









