The Virgil Frenzy Continues! What About Off-White This Season?

Tomoki Sukezane & Editor Daimao (hereafter, Sukezane)Today, Tsuyoshi-san and I will look back at the 2019SS menswear collections held this summer, in chronological order, and have our usual collection talk. It's become standard for the Paris menswear shows to kick off with OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH, but what did you think of the collection this time?


Tsuyoshi Noguchi (hereafter, Noguchi)I liked it. It was straightforward and easy to understand. It was all made of denim.

SukezaneThe quality has been improving with each season, hasn't it?


SukezaneThe see-through elements were striking in the collection too. And at Louis Vuitton, the sheer fabrics stood out. So, after Off-White, it was FACETASM. What did you think of it, Tsuyoshi-san?

Page02.Facetasm's Tricky Layers and Valentino's Playful Camouflage

Facetasm's Tricky Layers and Valentino's Playful Camouflage

NoguchiFacetasm's layered style remains consistent season after season.

SukezaneThere's a lot of layering.

NoguchiThat additive approach is what defines Facetasm, but I'd also be interested to see something more minimal from them.

NoguchiThe silhouettes are still big.

SukezaneWide shoulders, dropped shoulders. They play with the balance between the front and back, and the length. What about this one?

NoguchiThat's the old Valentino logo. Big logos are popular right now.

SukezaneDo you wear big logos?

NoguchiI don't (laughs).

SukezaneI'm wearing GUCCI today, though.

NoguchiIt doesn't say "Gucci" on it, does it? (laughs)

SukezaneIt doesn't, but still. Many brands are using pattern-on-pattern this season.

NoguchiYes, a lot.

SukezaneAnd camouflage. Does everyone like camouflage?

NoguchiPeople like military styles, don't they? Valentino's is quite playful. It's more recognizable than typical camouflage.

SukezaneThe hats are cute too. The silhouettes are looser than before, which is an improvement.

NoguchiIt's spring/summer, so it works well.

Page03.Undercover Participates in Paris Menswear After Suspending Womenswear Show

Undercover Participates in Paris Menswear After Suspending Womenswear Show

SukezaneI heard Kanye visited Nigo's studio and wouldn't leave. I wonder if they want to see the creative background.

NoguchiThey probably do.

SukezaneJun-io's menswear collections are well-supported. It's hypothetical, but if he had been doing menswear shows like this for a long time, he might have received offers from major houses.

NoguchiHe might have.

Page04.Today's B.C.B.G. Ami, and Rick Owens Made Wearable

Today's B.C.B.G. Ami, and Rick Owens Made Wearable

SukezaneNow, for the second day of Paris Fashion Week. AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI, you didn't go, did you?

NoguchiI couldn't make it. How was it?

SukezaneThey make good clothes. It feels like a Parisian brand. A modern version of the old agnès b., perhaps. It's a blend of various Parisian styles, like HEMISPHERES or A.P.C. from a certain era, embodying today's B.C.B.G. Recently, I've been wearing the smiley series with the red beanie, matching with my son.

NoguchiI'd love to see a photo of you two. Show me next time.

SukezaneNext is RICK OWENS. I couldn't go, but how was it?

NoguchiI think there were more wearable pieces. There were many cute models too.

SukezaneHas the approach changed? Hmm, what is this?

NoguchiIt was like a tent, with wire inside.

SukezaneIt looks like a design that has broken through a tent. Hmm, is it modern art?

NoguchiIt probably is.

SukezaneModern art is a key phrase. Now, for Louis Vuitton. It started with pure white.

NoguchiIt was good. Black models wearing pure white. I thought it would continue like that until the finale, but...

SukezaneIt didn't. It was a wonderful dress line, different from Off-White. White looks continued for a while, then beige appeared. There were unique pieces reminiscent of Ghost in the Shell, and also chemical jeans.

NoguchiVirgil really likes light blue denim, doesn't he?

Page05.Virgil and Kim Appointed to Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme, Respectively

Virgil and Kim Appointed to Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme, Respectively

SukezaneWas Virgil's appointment a major leap or a natural progression?

NoguchiIn terms of generating buzz, it was a major leap.

SukezaneHe has a certain star quality too.

NoguchiKim and Virgil have a connection, don't they?

SukezaneThey're part of a generation, or rather, people connected across borders through art and music. I felt that was solidified a few days later at the Dior Homme show.

NoguchiI see.

SukezaneKim's Dior show had an interesting seating arrangement. A giant KAWS monument was placed in the center, and celebrities sat around it. We, the general audience, watched them take photos for about 15 minutes.

NoguchiYeah. That was part of the production. The clothes were beautiful.


SukezaneIt felt like the latter half of what Kim did at Louis Vuitton had come to Dior. The Dior Homme created by Hedi Slimane, which had continued for so long, has completely disappeared.

NoguchiIt has.

SukezaneI thought that was a significant change.

NoguchiPerhaps the denim and suits remain in the stores. I wonder.

SukezaneBut this kind of new direction, changing the atmosphere...

NoguchiIt's very different from when Kris (Van Assche) was there.

SukezaneCompletely different. Virgil's Louis Vuitton and Kim's Dior Homme were definitely highlights of this Paris season.

NoguchiBoth Louis Vuitton and Dior were simply beautiful. And the presentation was new, wasn't it?

SukezaneIndeed. A turning point, perhaps?

NoguchiI think so.

SukezaneKim Jones has become a very skilled clothing designer.

NoguchiHe's been doing this for a long time. They must have a good team.

Page06.The Strength of an Unwavering Vision, Consistent Season After Season

The Strength of an Unwavering Vision, Consistent Season After Season

SukezaneNext, let's move on to YOHJI YAMAMOTO.


NoguchiYohji (Yamamoto) has his own world. If you mix the Yohji clothes I bought when I first started with this season's clothes, they fit perfectly. Even looking at photos from the '80s shows, they haven't changed, in a good way.

SukezaneThat's incredible.

NoguchiThey don't feel dated at all. It's amazing. That kind of skill, or rather, worldview. Young people like it, don't they?

SukezaneWhat is that kind of power?

NoguchiIn a way, it's encouraging. The strength to believe that it's okay not to change.

SukezaneIt's wonderful to continue creating without changing.

NoguchiEven if minor details and fabric textures differ, the overall balance remains unwavering.

SukezaneIt's cool. Now, for DRIES VAN NOTEN. It felt fresh.

NoguchiI liked this pattern.


SukezaneIt looks like a '60s or '70s pattern. Is it original? What kind of pattern is it?

NoguchiMaybe it's by a specific artist? It really feels like someone's work.

SukezaneLike Verner Panton...

Noguchi(Reading the press release) Psychedelic, '60s... Panton! Yes!

SukezaneI was right!

NoguchiCongratulations. You're good at using patterns.

SukezaneIt's cute, isn't it? You don't wear Dries, do you, Tsuyoshi-san?

Page07.Military Junya Watanabe, Exhilaratingly Bold Margiela and Comme des Garçons

Military Junya Watanabe, Exhilaratingly Bold Margiela and Comme des Garçons

SukezaneEntering the third day of Paris Fashion Week. JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS MAN was held at the Parc de Citroën.


NoguchiThey had military tents set up. Junya (Watanabe) also does military-themed collections periodically.

SukezanePhotographer vests and bulletproof vests appeared.

NoguchiDo women find men in military wear cute?

SukezaneDon't women like that? They don't like men who are too fashionable, right? I've been told that many times.

NoguchiYou're an extreme case (laughs)! You shouldn't use yourself as an example. It would lead to a 'What are you talking about?!' situation.

SukezaneThat's true. But Junya Watanabe is popular. He hasn't changed. It might be a different kind of 'unchanging' than Yohji-san's, but he hasn't changed.

NoguchiI prefer this military proposal to the Carhartt collaboration last time.

SukezaneSo, Tsuyoshi-san, you're more interested in military looks than workwear. It's more masculine. And next was MAISON MARGIELA. It was a complete change this time. John Galliano's taste was strongly evident.


NoguchiJohn's signature style came through, and I really liked it.

SukezaneI loved it too. It was exhilarating after a long time.

NoguchiThere haven't been many designers like this recently. Most lean towards streetwear, right? While retaining the Margiela essence, John brings this bold approach. The dresses he did when he was at Dior were also beautiful.

SukezaneExactly. We need people like this. The corsets were cool.

NoguchiThey were cool.

SukezaneIt was interesting. A collection of 35 powerful looks. And after John's Margiela, it was COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS.

NoguchiThe hairstyles and clothes really worked together.

SukezaneUTA-kun appeared again. It suited him. I wonder what he thought of the wig. He looked like an android.

NoguchiLike old American mannequins, right? Isn't it the best? I'd like to try wearing it.

SukezaneIt was overwhelmingly impressive. Truly amazing. Comme des Garçons is different from the others, isn't it?

NoguchiTheir approach is completely different. It's amazing how they keep pushing boundaries.

SukezaneThe images really stay with you.

Page 8.Sarah Burton's Simply Beautiful McQueen

Sarah Burton's Simply Beautiful McQueen

NoguchiOf course, I want to photograph it, but it's just so memorable.

SukezaneThe shows are like art, like a single piece of work, so they've become valuable enough that I'd pay to see them.

NoguchiRei Kawakubo's talent is certainly a factor, but also things like the headpieces proposed by Julian (Desprez), the hair artist, or accessories made by other artists. The collaboration of many creators completes a single show.

SukezaneIt always feels like we're seeing something special. So, this Comme des Garçons show was also wonderful. And after that, there was the ALEXANDER McQUEEN show.


NoguchiMcQueen makes beautiful clothes. Coming right after the impactful Comme des Garçons show, it's a bit hard for them to leave a strong impression.

SukezaneThey are beautiful, though. There's a bit of adventure, or perhaps a touch of darkness, gradually introduced. It's soft, but... How do you see McQueen's work during his own time versus Sarah Burton's McQueen, Tsuyoshi-san?

NoguchiWhen McQueen himself was designing, it was more intricate. Now, it's easier to wear. If you think about simply 'wearing' clothes, this might be the right direction. However, in the latter half of the show, they did present elaborate pieces, with embroidery and fringe.

SukezaneThey're cool.

NoguchiSimply cool.

SukezaneThey are. I often rent from them for shoots. The other day, when I went to the press room to borrow something, they told me, 'It's coming back soon!' I asked who it was, and they said, 'Tsuyoshi-san!'

NoguchiMy apologies (laughs).

Page09.White's Vivid Pattern Mix and Hermès' Elegant Waist Pouch

White's Vivid Pattern Mix and Hermès' Elegant Waist Pouch

SukezaneNow, for WHITE MOUNTAINEERING. It's casual.


NoguchiIt was unusually playful for Yusuke (Aizawa). It felt fresh.

SukezaneHe's usually more solid. Are the pants a bit baggier too? It's been a while since Aizawa-kun started showing in Europe. I liked the intricate feel when he showed in Tokyo, but now he does it more casually.

NoguchiIndeed.

SukezaneIt doesn't look like a Japanese brand. And after this was HERMES. They had laundry hanging.

NoguchiThey did. I wonder what it meant. I couldn't see the connection to the collection, but the pants were beautiful.

SukezaneThe silhouette of the pants was beautiful. And most surprisingly, Hermes is making waist bags. They call them 'sacoches' now, I believe.

Tomoki Sukezane & Editor Daimao Dialogue | Vol. 35 Tsuyoshi NoguchiTomoki Sukezane & Editor Daimao Dialogue | Vol. 35 Tsuyoshi Noguchi

SukezaneThat Hermes is making them... It was unheard of. There are many tourists in Tokyo, but do wealthy people wear Hermes waist pouches?

NoguchiAren't they explosively popular among kids right now?

SukezaneI never really got into waist pouches.

NoguchiRight, they had a dorky image. But it's different now.

SukezaneWhen I moved to Tokyo and started working on 'Popeye,' SAS waist pouches were trendy, and everyone wore them with Kaepa shoes. What was that about?

NoguchiThat's different. They're selling well, like the Supreme ones.

SukezaneDo you own one?

NoguchiOf course not! It would be terrible if I owned one (laughs).

SukezaneNo, actually, I do...

NoguchiI have one at home... No, no!

SukezaneBut when Hermes makes it, it's different.

NoguchiIt's elegant.

SukezaneI'd like to see someone wearing it. It looks cool.

Page10.So, what are your best brands, best looks, and best items?

So, what are your best brands, best looks, and best items?

SukezaneFinally, Tsuyoshi-san, please choose your top 5 best brands for this season.

NoguchiIn no particular order: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton, and Undercover.

SukezaneMine are almost the same. Maison Margiela, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton, and Dries Van Noten. Now, for the top 3 looks?

NoguchiLet me think... From Margiela, definitely the first look. It was amazing. And the anime print from Undercover.

SukezaneThis series is great.

NoguchiThe third is Louis Vuitton, the first white look!

SukezaneIt's strong. Mine are Dior Homme, Margiela, and Comme des Garçons.

SukezaneNow, let's move on to best items. Eight items. Accessories are fine too.

NoguchiIn Dior, didn't they have a bag with a KAWS plush toy inside?

SukezaneYes, yes.

NoguchiThen, first, that plush toy. It might be hard to see in photos because it's facing the photographer. Also, the brown Panton suit from Dries. And the nerdy illustration sweater from Undercover.

I also like the black top from (Takahiro Miyashita's brand, TheSoloist.) that can be worn in multiple ways. The one with the photo print on the left. Then, although I can't wear it, this jacket from McQueen. The suit from Comme des Garçons is also nice. But I can't wear either of them!

SukezaneIt's amazing. Like a cocoon. (laughs)

NoguchiAnd the Louis Vuitton parka, and the Hermes bag. They look expensive (laughs).

SukezaneMy top 8 are... First, the Dior coat. Then the Vuitton parka, and like Tsuyoshi-san, the Undercover print sweatshirt.

This Margiela coat was also cool. And the Dries Panton pants. Tsuyoshi-san mentioned the McQueen jacket, but I'd want to wear it as a set.

NoguchiNo matter how many times I see it, it's amazing.

SukezaneAlso, although they didn't have a show, the Loewe parka was cute. And the coat from Ami.

NoguchiIt's fun to look back like this.

SukezaneThank you for this season as well.

NoguchiThank you too.

SukezaneWe look forward to your continued support next season.