Pursuing "Real Clothes" That Express the Present

In addition to styling for fashion magazines and catalogs, he serves as the creative director and buyer for "biotope A.P.C." in Shirokane, Tokyo, and is the designer for the menswear brand "Né-net," which is now in its fourth season for Spring/Summer 2013.Né-netHe also holds annual solo exhibitions as a photographer, and his work was exhibited at theMHL. Community Martin Shibuya last November, demonstrating his continuous engagement in stimulating creative activities.


His fundamental perspective on fashion is: “For the past two to three years, I’ve been focused on real clothes – clothes that sell. I travel to New York and Paris, and my interpretation of real clothes is the basis for my buying. Of course, there are colorful items and shorts that seem trendy, but I pride myself on not being swayed by trends. For the past decade or so, my styling has primarily featured real clothes. By ‘real,’ I mean accessible clothes with a certain quality, clothes that sell. My stance is that clothes from this year can still be worn next year, and in that sense, Margaret Howell is an incredible brand. There’s a strength to it that makes a 10-year-old shirt from my wardrobe still feel current.”

A Female Designer's Perspective on Menswear and Her Own Brand

Regarding the Margaret Howell 2013 Spring/Summer collection, Kumagai comments: “Last year there was a London boom, but this collection feels generally gentler. The texture of the shirts, for example, has a feel that has crossed the sea from London. Perhaps the market has expanded significantly after the boom. What I particularly liked in the styling was the single trench coat (top left); it has a very British feel, suitable for a mod-inspired young man or even an older Paul Weller. Also, the shorts coordination maintains a line of menswear seen through a woman's eyes, creating a very cohesive and dignified look. Margaret Howell’s approach to menswear, which is more from a male perspective than that of a male designer, is one of its charms.”


He often draws inspiration from films for his own clothing designs. For "Né-net," he aims to create “clothes that incorporate my memories, experiences, and vocabulary. I also continue to direct the fashion brand GDC, but Né-net is a brand where I can create clothes that I want to wear, clothes that I can grow old with.”



“Margaret is a designer I respect for consistently creating clothes that can be worn in real life, without resisting the times. Her clothes don't choose the wearer; they enhance a person's elegance. When people think of Margaret Howell, they might recall the pleasant atmosphere of the café in Jinnan, Shibuya, and I felt a similar comfortable breeze at the MHL. Community Mart. Margaret's approach to clothing is perfect as it is, but if I could make one request, it would be for her to design a single-story beach house. If she did, I would buy one myself,” he says with a laugh.





ANGLO-AMERICAN
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp