I want people to feel the "Parisian spirit" when they see ami's clothes and collections.

Tomoki Sukezane (hereinafter, Sukezane)The red beanie has become an icon of the brand, partly because you love wearing it. Is the boy in this photo you, Alexandre?

Alexandre Mattiussi (hereinafter, Alexandre)Yes. I'm wearing a jacket that was my father's, resized and paired with a shirt.

SukezaneThat's stylish. Very fashionable!

AlexandreIt's a good styling, isn't it? I've loved mixing and matching clothes in my own way since I was a child. When I was a student, my friends would run around in T-shirts and sneakers, but I preferred to wear shirts and leather shoes.

SukezaneWas the red beanie your trademark even back then?

AlexandreYes. I have very curly hair, and my mother wouldn't cut it, so I started wearing it to manage my messy hair. Red is my favorite color, so I chose a red beanie. When I started ami, I wore it all the time. That's how I became known everywhere as 'the guy with the red beanie.' It also served as a conversation starter, which led to this collaboration with Smiley.

SukezaneI see. Smiley and the red beanie make a great combination. I heard Smiley originated in the UK; are there many variations?

AlexandreThe person who created Smiley was a French man in the 1970s. The world was in a somber mood due to the war and the oil crisis. He was working as an intern at a newspaper and wanted to write something uplifting. When he included this Smiley drawing with an article, it received a huge response and spread worldwide.^{(Note: There are various accounts.)}

SukezaneThat's interesting. Let's talk about clothes. I look forward to your collections every season; the presentations are always wonderful. This time, the models appearing on the rooftop was particularly memorable.

I recall previous presentations set in airports, crowded trains, and after-school scenes, all of which I found innovative and engaging. Where do you find your inspiration?

AlexandreEvery morning when I wake up, it feels like ideas just come to me. First, when creating ami, I focus on expressing the Parisian spirit.

I am French myself and identify as a Parisian living in Paris, and I draw inspiration from the city every day. Whether Japanese, New Yorkers, or Chinese, I would be happy if people feel the Parisian essence when they see ami's clothes and collections, as if they were looking at a postcard from Paris.

SukezaneI love Paris too. That's a wonderful concept.

AlexandreThank you. I think the rooftop idea for this collection was quite successful. We have special presentations planned for the June show as well, so please look forward to it. You'll experience a different kind of Parisian charm.

SukezaneI'm looking forward to it. A different Paris... perhaps something futuristic?

AlexandreA Paris that people don't know yet.

SukezaneThat's great! When I look at your clothes, Alexandre, they remind me of Ivy League style. Does that have anything to do with your fashion when you were younger? I wonder if 'Ivy' is still understood these days, though it's become a more global term.

AlexandreI understand Ivy League style! Yes... I'm not sure if it's my cultural background or my upbringing, but I believe all those experiences have shaped who I am today.

It's difficult to explain exactly how I'm influenced by things when designing clothes, but I consider the brand's approach to be practical.

For example, when it comes to shirts, I pay close attention to the width and collar direction. When designing anything, proportion is what I value most. I believe I'm the type of person who starts with the form, rather than trying to express a vague concept.

In that sense, it might be similar to architecture. It could be placed here, or there, but I decide on the exact spot based on my intuition.

SukezaneI see.

AlexandreWhen I start working on a collection, I try not to rely too much on photos or paintings. For this collection, the keyword was 'colorful,' using a wide range of colors.

It starts with deciding which colors to use, and then we build the looks from there. It's somewhat similar to composing music. I come up with the main melody, and then my team and I work together on the development.

The next collection is a reaction to this, focusing on neutral colors like beige. I feel like wearing those shades next season, but I always prioritize my current feelings about what I want to wear.

SukezaneSo, it reflects your current mood, Alexandre. All the looks from the Autumn/Winter 2018 season were wonderful.

AlexandreThank you. For this collection, I started with the image of a long coat, cropped jeans, and a heavy knit, which appeared at the beginning of the show.

My usual process is to start with the materials and then build the style from there.

Some might say there's no need to show simple jackets and jeans at a fashion show, but I believe we should be proposing items that can be worn daily and are accessible to everyone, rather than just quirky and crazy designs.

This way, people in their 20s and 60s can project themselves onto the clothes.

Only a small number of people have their own style and know exactly what to wear.

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I believe the designer's role is to suggest how to wear clothes. I might propose that mixing green and brown is acceptable, or tell someone, 'You might not realize it, but this jacket would definitely suit you.' Just because you haven't tried it doesn't mean you won't like it once you do.

SukezaneThat's a wonderful way of thinking. The all-camel look is fantastic, with the white shirt and sneakers adding a nice touch.

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AlexandreThank you. My mother also liked that look.

We are in the fashion industry, so it might not seem like a radical idea to us, but to most people, it would appear quite daring. They might think, 'Wow, all camel? Unbelievable!'

However, since the designs aren't outlandish, I want to convey that they can be worn in real life.

Every season, we create collections that reflect real life within a realistic setting, which is why we create grand sets for the shows. We want to tell the whole story.

It's a daily scene of a stylish, cool young Parisian sending a message to his girlfriend while holding a cigarette, but set on a rooftop.

Page02.We want to be a brand that people want to keep secret, just for their closest friends.

We want to be a brand that people want to keep secret, just for their closest friends.

SukezaneI also notice a particularity in the models chosen for the shows. You cast models who aren't excessively tall, for both men and women, right?

AlexandreThat's right. Casting is challenging, but the key is not being too tall.

While typical show models are 185-186 cm, the maximum height I choose is 183 cm. This is because, in reality, not everyone is that tall.

Since I'm not particularly tall myself, it might be a bit egocentric, but I can't empathize with models who can't showcase the clothes in their best proportions.

SukezaneSo, if you put clothes made with the best proportions on a model who is too tall, they won't fit properly.

AlexandreExactly. For the same reason, I select female models who are around 167-168 cm.

SukezaneAre they wearing men's clothes?

AlexandreUntil now, I had them wear men's XXS sizes, but starting this season, we've introduced a new collection of menswear designed for women. Since it's still considered menswear, we've adjusted the length and proportions for women.

SukezaneSo, you'll be expanding your women's line as well?

AlexandreYes, that's right.

SukezaneBy the way, are there any shops you always visit when you come to Tokyo?

AlexandreI always go to Supreme.

They have one in Paris too, but it's only been open for a year, so it doesn't have the same authentic feel as the New York and Tokyo stores.

And Comme des Garçons in Aoyama. But when I come to Tokyo, I feel like I spend most of my time doing interviews like this. I talk to so many people that I don't have much time to browse shops.

SukezaneWhat about in Paris? Do you have any favorite shops?

AlexandreI don't really shop much in Paris. Plus, I know most of the people there, so I feel like they might think I'm stealing ideas just by looking at clothes in a store (laughs).

So, the only places I might go are vintage shops. That's why everything I wear, from T-shirts to jeans and sneakers, is from ami.

SukezaneI can understand that (laughs). Lastly, a brief business-related question.

Many brands are now part of larger corporate groups, but ami remains independent. I think that's wonderful. Could you tell us about your philosophy behind this? And what are your future plans for the brand?

AlexandreIn the future, I want to open more stores and focus on e-commerce to increase brand awareness. As a small company, we also need to use our limited marketing and communication budget wisely.

Also, there are aspects I want to keep confidential. It's not a criticism, but with large brands, everything from advertising to shows and products is made public, leaving nothing confidential.

On the other hand, 'ami' means 'friend' in French, and I want it to be a brand that people want to keep secret, just for their closest friends.

While the style is accessible to everyone, I want it to be something you'd want to secretly recommend to your special friends. Just like you'd only recommend a good doctor you know to a close friend, not just anyone. I want ami to be that kind of presence.

SukezaneIt's clear that you value the people around you, Alexandre. Do you have a muse for the brand?

AlexandreI'm not sure if this will answer your question, but I have many images in my mind that I want to express. We're shooting the campaign for the Autumn/Winter 2018 season next week, and we just released a teaser video for it, shot right before the show.

SukezaneThat's wonderful. The rooftop setting is great. Have you ever lived in an apartment like that?

AlexandreUnfortunately, no. But I'd love to live in one. I like my current apartment, but for my next place, I'd like to live in a rooftop apartment where I can see the sky and breathe fresh air.

SukezanePlease invite me when you find one.

AlexandreOf course. But good properties sell out quickly.

SukezaneI'll look forward to it. Thank you for your time today.

AlexandreThank you, too.

Alexandre MATTIUSSI
Born in 1980. Began his career in the men's line at Christian Dior, then spent five years as the first assistant for Givenchy's menswear, honing his skills in men's tailoring. After a stint in the men's division at Marc Jacobs, he launched his own brand. He debuted during Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011-2012. The brand name 'ami' is derived from the designer's initials and the last letter of the alphabet, and also means 'friend' in French.