The Bold Idea: Wearing a Tote Bag Crossbody

BRIEFING offers bags that maintain MIL-SPEC quality while distinguishing themselves from typical "military surplus" with their unique designs and functionality. rumors, having resonated with this brand's unwavering policy since its 1998 debut, has produced numerous custom orders. Now, they introduce the "MATSU-MO-TOTE," a tote bag that can be worn crossbody. Let's explore the innovative ideas and processes behind it.





—When did the relationship between BRIEFING and rumors actually begin?

MatsumotoWe've known each other since before rumors was rebranded, and this is our fifth custom model. If you're just talking about my personal relationship with BRIEFING, it goes back to when I was working at "Mono Magazine," and we've been close since the brand's inception.

KozureWe were often featured in "Mono Magazine." We've known each other for nearly 15 years now. So, when we received the offer for a custom collaboration, we readily accepted.

MatsumotoThat first custom order proposal was in 2007. We did a special color order of "Coyote Brown" for the masterpiece "Armer Tote," a color not in use at the time. Its exquisite color scheme was heavily featured in "Begin" magazine and sold out immediately. It was such a talked-about collaboration that we still received inquiries from readers until recently.

KozureFrom then on, we started using Coyote Brown in our regular products as well. After that, we've collaborated on various bag models: "Slider," "Gym Wire," "Messenger Brief," and now this current product.






—So, what was the starting point for this current bag?

MatsumotoThe "Messenger Brief" we did last time was geared more towards business settings. So, this time, I wanted to create something more casual. Also, the demand for tote bags has grown stronger compared to the past. I thought it would be convenient to have a tote bag that could also be used for active scenes like cycling. When you ride a bike with a regular tote bag, it slips off your shoulder, which is both uncool and inconvenient. I wanted to solve that problem.





KozureThe concept itself was very new, so my role was to focus on giving it a good form. The base was the originally lightweight tote bag, "Flight Light Bucket." To further pursue lightness, we changed the material from ballistic nylon to Cordura nylon. Considering scenes like cycling, a lighter weight is generally more convenient. Also, the opening only had a button closure, so we added a zipper. This prevents the contents from spilling out when worn crossbody.

MatsumotoMoreover, the zipper part is designed to neatly tuck inside when not in use, making it a superb feature that allows for flexible use with the button closure.









—What were the challenges during production?

KozureIt was definitely the handling of the cord for crossbody wear. We wanted to keep the design minimal, so we focused on making it compact. It's easy to make something ostentatious, but that wouldn't look good. When the cord is stored at the bottom of the bag, we didn't want it to bulge, so we made the storage space wide. By giving it enough volume to hold a small folding umbrella, we ensured it wouldn't look out of place. We also used Velcro to create a mechanism where the cord is neither obstructive when in use nor when stored.



MatsumotoThat's a technique only possible with Mr. Kozure's experience. The fate of this bag hinged on how the cord was attached, but he managed to create a beautifully finished product. Plus, it can be used on either the right or left side, making it incredibly convenient. I think it's such an innovative idea, it could even be patented (laughs).





KozureWe also added some gusset to the front zip pocket. This prevents the contents from being compressed when the bag is pulled taut while worn crossbody. The same applies to the cord section; we didn't fix the attachment point of the handle, allowing for some slack so that the force is distributed. This ensures that the contents are not compressed.





—Excluding the crossbody feature, the basic specifications remain unchanged, making it a custom order that truly leverages BRIEFING's strengths.

MatsumotoAll of BRIEFING's products are impeccably made. Therefore, our role is to enhance their appeal by playing with them. They are committed to factories that adhere to MIL-SPEC standards, and they maintained that stance even during 9/11.

KozureDuring 9/11, due to anti-terrorism measures, military production increased, and the line for general consumer products was scaled back. As a result, we faced supply shortages for nearly two years. Even then, we didn't want to compromise our commitment to the factory.



MatsumotoHaving a military-specialized factory continue to produce everyday bags can be seen, perhaps a bit grandly, as "expressing world peace." It's wonderful that a military factory is creating products unrelated to war, and BRIEFING serves as a bridge for that. I want to continue supporting that stance.



Shinshu Kozure
Born in Tokyo in 1966. After working as a designer at a major bag manufacturer, he joined Cels Limited in 1999. He oversees all aspects of design, including the development of in-house brands like "BRIEFING" and "WRAPS," as well as OEM planning and design for select shops. He is currently a Director and Creative Director at the company.

Hiroyuki Matsumoto
Born in 1969. After gaining experience in editing and sales for a car magazine during his student years, he joined World Photo Press Co., Ltd., where he was assigned to the advertising sales department. He was involved in numerous magazines, including "World Watch" and "Mono Magazine." After leaving the company in 2005, he worked as a production producer for "SHIBUYA-FM" and consulted on apparel brand product development. In 2006, he co-founded Seven Seas Co., Ltd., launching "Openers" and "rumors." He possesses a wide network of contacts not only in the fashion industry but also in various other fields. He is currently the Managing Director of the company and also serves as the MD for rumors.