M・A・R・S: Yoji Yoneyama x Tomoaki Okutani - A Special Conversation on Coming This Far Through Self-Study
M·A·R·S | MARS
Yoji Yoneyama x Tomoaki Okutani: A Special Conversation
Coming This Far Through Self-Study
To commemorate their 25th anniversary, we launch a special conversation series with Yoji Yoneyama, the designer of "M·A·R·S." Our guest this time is Tomoaki Okutani, the designer of the fashion brand "The Viridi-anne." It was actually Okutani who first drew Yoneyama into the world of silver jewelry.
Photographs by NAGAO MasashiText by TOMIYAMA Eizaburo
A Casual Remark from Okutani Changed My Life 180 Degrees
YoneyamaI met Okutani when I was still a hairdresser and planning to study abroad in Paris. Back then, I couldn't save money on a hairdresser's salary, so I quit temporarily and worked part-time. We hung out almost every day, and one day we decided, 'Let's try making a ring today.' That was the first time I made a ring, and it was incredibly fun.
OkutaniYou poured the money you'd saved for studying abroad into making jewelry, didn't you?
YoneyamaIf Okutani hadn't said, 'You're good! You can do it!', I wouldn't have come into this field. It might have been a casual remark, but for me, it changed my life 180 degrees.
OkutaniBut he was genuinely incredibly good. We held a joint exhibition just three months later.
YoneyamaI made 15 pieces.
OkutaniBut looking back, we were using inexpensive tools for amateurs.
YoneyamaThat's what I thought at the time. Street culture was popular in the late 80s and early 90s, similar to now. It was a time when all sorts of things emerged, done freely.
OkutaniI started sewing clothes while attending university. I was in the painting department, but in my mind, I had already quit painting. But back then, there was really nothing. There was no internet, so I'd get information from seniors who knew a lot about clothes, like 'There's this cool brand in London, but you can't buy it in Japan.' I'd borrow clothes from people who had them, trace patterns, and make them by imitation. That's how I learned.
YoneyamaIn that sense, we both started self-taught. Was that ultimately a good thing? In my experience, when I discover something new, it often turns out to be something taught in the very first lesson. Thinking about it that way, the process is the same, whether you're taught or you discover it yourself.
OkutaniThat's certainly true. But because I did it myself, I sometimes understand the reasons behind it. If you start with an equation, you don't understand its meaning. So, self-study might make you better at developing ideas. You might think there's an answer somewhere, even if it's not the conventional path.
YoneyamaIf I were now, I might go to school. Of course, there are downsides, but I feel like there were many things that would have been a shortcut.
OkutaniI'm the contrary type, so if I were taught properly, I might get bored quickly... I can concentrate because I'm doing it myself.
YoneyamaI truly admire that Okutani's motivation hasn't changed. Even now, he draws 'lines' from a blank slate to express his desired worldview. Seeing that up close makes it hard to slack off. For me, he's that kind of presence.
OkutaniIt's embarrassing to talk so seriously. But even though Yone-chan is two years younger than me, he's like an older brother, and I often get told off by him.
YoneyamaHe has his flaws (laughs).
Why Exhibit at International Trade Shows?
OkutaniYou exhibited at a trade show in Paris before I did, but what was your initial motivation for going?
YoneyamaThe Japanese market has its unique aspects, doesn't it? But overseas, people purely look at the product and judge whether it's good or bad. I was curious about how I would be judged in that context. Also, you meet people overseas you wouldn't otherwise meet. For example, buyers who wouldn't look at my work in Japan, or I'd have dinner with designers I wouldn't normally have a chance to connect with. You're the same, aren't you?
OkutaniSomething very strange happened recently. After returning from a trade show in Paris in January, I went to Berlin for research. I had noticed a lighting manufacturer called "BOCCI" at a friend's house and in shops, and I thought, 'That's cool.' When I returned, about two months later, I received an email. It turned out to be the president of BOCCI. He apparently liked my clothes and wanted to know if we could collaborate. I had no prior connection, so I thought, 'No way!' But in the end, BOCCI designed and installed the lighting for this store. It's a very rare case, but things like that happen.
YoneyamaThat story is amazing. I can only describe it as 'fate.'
OkutaniMy interest in fashion was sparked by overseas trends. At the time, punk was transitioning to new wave, and London was incredibly hot. I admired people like Vivienne Westwood and Seditionaries, and the stylish people on the London streets. But even as trends changed, stylish people overseas maintained their own style, and the underlying spirit hasn't really changed. They choose based on their own taste. That's reassuring.
YoneyamaOverseas, many people prioritize themselves before fashion. That's why their character shines through. When such people wear clothes, their individual aura comes through more strongly than the brand's statement, which is cool.
OkutaniExactly, if someone has a strong sense of self, they look cool.
Page02.My Mind is Monochrome When Imagining Designs
M·A·R·S | MARS
Yoji Yoneyama x Tomoaki Okutani: A Special Conversation
Coming This Far Through Self-Study (2)
My Mind is Monochrome When Imagining Designs
YoneyamaPreviously, in this series, we featured the performance group "Gamarjobat." It was interesting how they said that even without intending to, they are often called 'anime-like' overseas. Has The Viridi-anne ever received any interesting evaluations like that?
OkutaniAbout the second year I exhibited in Paris, someone called it 'Goth Ninja style' (laughs). But it didn't feel particularly unpleasant. Nowadays, there are brands like that, so I wouldn't want to be called that now.
YoneyamaHahaha. We're often told we're on a unique path. I've always wondered how Okutani creates The Viridi-anne's worldview.
OkutaniWhen I was young, I was edgy, and I got into the French New Wave without really understanding it. Even now, I love films, even if I don't grasp the content. I also like the calm, monochrome style of photographers like August Sander. Recently, I realized that when I'm conceptualizing, my mind is monochrome. Images only appear in black and white.
YoneyamaThat's innovative.
OkutaniA world of blurred monochrome.
YoneyamaWow, that's interesting.
Rediscovering Japan Through Travel Abroad
—The composite for "M·A·R·S" is inspired by bamboo crafts, and in recent years, both of you have started incorporating "Japanese" elements into your designs.
YoneyamaI suppose it's ingrained in us. I don't intentionally try to incorporate "Japanese" elements, but the Japanese aesthetic is what I find purely beautiful or sublime.
OkutaniI don't consciously think about "Japanese" style in my daily life either, but I've been going to Paris for about 14 years now. During that time, I've also seen the downsides of overseas culture. I've come to appreciate the meticulousness of Japanese people and their precise craftsmanship.
On the other hand, Europe is often the first to catch onto these good aspects of Japan. I was struck by the Japanese tableware displayed at "10 Corso Como" in Milan.
YoneyamaIn overseas architecture, stone is prevalent, leading to a culture of arches and curves. But Japan's culture is based on wood, with symmetry and parallelism as fundamentals. Within that, I enjoy the play of 'negative space.'
OkutaniIt's only by going abroad that you can rediscover Japan.
YoneyamaFor me, The Viridi-anne is a brand I can love at any age. Everyone has an ideal self they aspire to be, but their clothes always fit perfectly as I age into my 40s and 50s. Plus, people always ask, 'Where did you get that?' When I answer, 'It's The Viridi-anne,' it feels complete.
OkutaniThat makes me happy. In my case, if it weren't for "M·A·R·S," I probably wouldn't wear accessories so much. But the pieces Yone-chan makes are so elegant that even wearing many doesn't make me look flashy. They also match my clothes, and I love their originality the most.







