An Interview with Mr Porter Menswear Buyer Daniel Todd | MR PORTER
FASHION / MEN
November 2, 2017

An Interview with Mr Porter Menswear Buyer Daniel Todd | MR PORTER


MR PORTER


An Interview with Menswear Buyer Daniel Todd


There are still interesting brands to be found,
a potential I feel in Japan.


MR PORTER, a London-based online shop for men's fashion. The number of brands available for purchase has grown from 80 at its launch to over 450, making it one of the world's largest e-commerce sites. The selection and buying of brands are handled by a team of elite buyers. We spoke with Daniel Todd, one of these buyers, who is visiting Japan for the fifth time, about Japanese brands and the new original label "Mr P."


Photographs by TANAKA TsutomuText by YAMADA Tsuyoshi [plume]



The criterion for buying is that the brand "offers something unique."



First, could you tell us the purpose of your visit to Japan this time?


Daniel Todd (hereinafter, Daniel)It's to "meet" Japanese brands. MR PORTER carries many Japanese brands, and I want to discover new ones. Inspiration is also a big reason. It's important to see firsthand what's happening in Japanese street style right now. I feel it by observing people on the streets, and I make it a point to visit places and shops that catch my eye. Yesterday, I went to Ueno for the first time.


Ueno? To see fashion in Ueno?


DanielNo, no (laughs). I visited vintage surplus shops in Ameyoko.


Ameyoko is indeed known for surplus. What aspects of Japanese fashion are you paying attention to right now?


DanielI'm always interested in Japanese street fashion. I think street style as a category might have originated in Japan. For example, brands like Patagonia and The North Face are globally dominant, but perhaps only in Japan are they worn as everyday fashion. Magazines here also feature outdoor wear as fashion. I find that a very interesting perspective.



From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook



Down jackets were also featured on MR PORTER's TREND page. Daniel, what are your thoughts on current trends?


DanielI feel that trends evolve gradually rather than emerging suddenly. This season, I see a continuation of previous trends. Key terms would still be "70s streetwear" and "90s sportswear." Brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, and Vetements. Logo-heavy items, exemplified by Gucci, will continue to be prevalent next spring.


Are there any brands you are particularly interested in?


DanielBalenciaga is probably leading the current trend. Their recently released "Triple S" sneakers were a huge hit, and their menswear show for next spring was exceptionally well-crafted. Wide-leg pants, oversized jackets, anoraks – everything was on-trend. While oversized styles seem to have already been accepted in Japan, globally, we are only just beginning to transition from the long-dominant skinny silhouette to new forms.




MR PORTER


An Interview with Menswear Buyer Daniel Todd


There are still interesting brands to be found,
a potential I feel in Japan (2)



Please tell us about Japanese brands as well.


DanielMR PORTER carries a great many Japanese brands. Among them, Beams Plus holds a significant share, partly due to our pop-up event in London in 2016. There are countless others, like Neighborhood, Nonnative, Wacko Maria, and Visvim (laughs). Visvim has become firmly established. They have a stable popularity due to their passionate fanbase and have established a global position. Their craftsmanship and product quality are superb. Their denim jackets, in particular, are the best I've ever seen.




What criteria do you use when selecting brands?


DanielOur criterion for selecting brands, not just in Japan, is that they "offer something unique." The ability to present the forefront of trends, or conversely, to create clothes that can be worn even 10 years from now, regardless of trends. Possessing such originality is important.


Where do you get such information?


DanielI often gather information about brands online. It's also important to see the actual products, like during visits to Japan. This time, I plan to visit Flagstuff, Doublet, and Auralee. I haven't seen these three brands before, so I'm very much looking forward to it. There are still interesting brands to be found; I feel that potential in Japan.



From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook



Do you have any particular favorite Japanese brands?


DanielThe Soloist. I've liked Miyashita-san's work since his Number (N)ine days. He is uncompromising in his handling of materials, his cuts, and the detailing. It's perfect. I also love Undercover.


Are there any other things you find unique to Japan?


DanielThe prevalence of collaborations is interesting. I think Japanese people excel at them. MR PORTER also has exclusive collections and develops collaborations. We express what we want to draw out from the brand to make customers feel special.



From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook

From the "Mr P" lookbook



And you are launching an original label soon?


DanielIt's a capsule collection launching in November under the name "Mr P." Imagining a man's wardrobe, we will propose classic products that one would want to have regardless of season, such as overcoats, denim, and jersey. For example, for tailoring, we use Italy; for denim, Japan; for jersey, Portugal – we produce each item in the country most adept at making it. Many brands launch fall items in summer and spring items in winter, but Mr P will launch new items every two months according to the season. You can get what you want when you want it. We chose the original label as a method to make that possible.


In Japan, we call that "staple" items. Daniel, which item would you recommend?


DanielFor our Japanese customers, I would recommend the cashmere knitwear. The design is a simple crew neck, and we plan to start with navy, gray, and black, gradually adding more colors. They are very high-quality, standard items. They are items that both I and my father could wear. We offer a wide range of sizes, so I'm sure everyone in Japan will enjoy them.



Daniel TODD



Daniel TODD
Belongs to the buyer team at MR PORTER, overseeing ready-to-wear and sports categories. He began his career at NET-A-PORTER in 2010, serving as Deputy Product Editor before joining the founding team of MR PORTER. He has been instrumental in the discovery and introduction of new brands and currently manages over 30 brands.