"Dressed Up, Blouson!"
The sixth installment of Editor Demon King Tomoki Yusuke's carefully curated selection is here, and it's better than ever. This time, we're featuring a military blouson, styled in a way that deliberately avoids casualness. Simply throwing it over a T-shirt and jeans is a look from a decade ago, or perhaps even five decades ago. We propose a stylish approach, limited to specific colors.
Direction by SUKEZANE TomokiPhotographs by YAMAGUCHI KenichiStyling by KAWAI KohtaText by HATAKEYAMA SatokoGrooming by ODA Tokyo
Vol. 6: The Olive Blouson
Tomoki“Last year and into this year, MA-1 jackets were trending in womenswear. The appeal was in pairing this inherently rugged military item with more polished styling, which felt fresh. I thought it would be interesting to apply a similar concept to menswear, so I picked out this olive-colored blouson.
What I want to propose is not just wearing it as outerwear, but layering it over a sharp suit. The contrast created by the jacket peeking out from beneath the blouson adds a touch of military ruggedness to a dressy, formal world, creating an intriguing mismatch. I've specifically chosen blousons that lend themselves to this kind of styling.
For the color, I opted for olive green instead of black or navy, which can be too subdued. I wanted to create a contrast when paired with a suit; I find that a slight dissonance can be more stylish and interesting.
After all, pulling off a sporty item like a blouson with effortless flair is quite challenging. The actor Steve McQueen, known as the "King of Cool," was masterful at elegant blouson styling, often wearing a G9 jacket over a V-neck sweater and shirt. This time, I'm focusing on seven items that can be worn with a 'dress-up' mood, much like he did. I hope you'll all give it a try.”
©AFLO
* Turtleneck sweater worn under the blouson: ¥60,000 (Johnstons / 03-3473-7007)
LOEWE
Tomoki“While the look is pure military, the use of high-quality nappa leather makes it luxurious. It’s the perfect blouson for dressing up. The silhouette is slightly slim, but the nappa is thin and soft, so there’s absolutely no stiffness from the leather, which is remarkable. The supple texture of the leather pairs beautifully with the light olive green, and the collar’s shearling is also made in the same color, adding to its cool factor. It’s an exceptionally appealing and rich piece.”
BURBERRY
Tomoki“This piece refines the N2B style by incorporating details from the M65 and MA-1. The glossy sheen and the blend of khaki and brown are well-executed, fitting the slim silhouette perfectly. All the details are meticulously crafted. I appreciate its stylish look, which surpasses that of authentic military wear.”
TOM FORD
Tomoki“This piece sold out upon pre-order in Japan. The dark tones and subdued pattern, making it ambiguous whether it’s camouflage or floral, are incredibly stylish. Furthermore, the fact that the pattern is printed on nubuck leather is the epitome of luxury. While I’m not usually a fan of camouflage, this piece makes me want to wear it. It has a basic design similar to the G9, yet it possesses a distinct presence.”
SAINT LAURENT
Tomoki“This is a bomber-style blouson from Saint Laurent, based on the B-15. The white shearling collar and black quilted lining create a striking contrast with the outer fabric, showcasing Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello's signature attention to detail and a contemporary twist. The detachable shearling collar and the addition of a chin strap to create a stand collar demonstrate a thoughtful incorporation of functionality, which I appreciate.”
BARACUTA
Tomoki“When you think of blousons, the G9 is the archetype. Born in 1938, its silhouette and design have undergone minor changes over the years, but it retains an authentic charm. While navy, black, and red are common colors, the olive green offers a more mature and different impression, which is interesting. This is truly a classic that should be worn elegantly.”
VALENTINO
Tomoki“The Rockstuds adorning the shoulder darts and along the front zipper make a significant impact. Crafted from high-quality nylon with a slightly slim silhouette, it exudes a refined impression. The tailoring is expertly done, resulting in a luxurious finish that is distinctly Valentino. A key consideration for men over 40 when buying a military jacket is to avoid purchasing an actual bomber jacket. It might be worth keeping in mind that more refined pieces like this can appear more stylish.”
ENGINEERED GARMENTS
Tomoki“This blouson is perfect for those who want to incorporate a subtle military touch. It precisely captures the desired silhouette and details that one might wish for in a typical military blouson, making it ideal for those who don't want to go all-in. It’s a piece that offers a pleasing sense of understated style, perfectly fitting our theme.”
SPOTLIGHT
LOUIS VUITTON
Tomoki“As a former baseball enthusiast, I have an instinctive urge to wear varsity jackets. However, when I actually try one on, I find myself thinking, ‘This isn’t quite right.’ It’s a complex mix of embarrassment that my childhood admiration for varsity jackets is showing, and nostalgia. For me, the varsity jacket is a dangerously alluring item that I know I shouldn’t wear, yet I can’t resist.”
GUCCI
Tomoki“The Gucci varsity jacket, with the rainbow-colored patch on the back, instantly reminded me of the Houston Astros of yesteryear. I have fond memories of the rainbow colors on their uniforms, reminiscent of the team colors at the Astrodome, the setting for the movie ‘The Bad News Bears in Breaking Training.’ Regardless, the varsity jacket is undoubtedly an item that dangerously stimulates adult nostalgia.”
