Vol. 5: "Solemnly, The Check Coat!"

Yusuke“In recent years, I’ve noticed men wearing coats as a substitute for jackets more often. Personally, I love coats and always buy one every year, but what I’m most interested in this year is a piece with a ‘Mayfair’ worldview. The style represented by the Bottega Veneta coat worn at the top is a prime example.

Mayfair, home to Savile Row and Jermyn Street, is an area where gentlemen embodying the orthodox British style gather. While it’s wonderful to reinterpret the traditional banker style seen there in your own way, if you want to express your current mood instantly, choose items with a touch of modern essence. I think wearing a piece that expresses a sophisticated playfulness in its silhouette and length would be ideal. These will be the key points for choosing a coat this year. And for the pattern, don't hesitate to go with British check. This autumn/winter, we're seeing an unusual number of chic yet novel check patterns, whether they're deconstructed traditional patterns or digitally processed ones.

And for the pattern, don't hesitate to go with British check. This autumn/winter, we're seeing an unusual number of chic yet novel check patterns, whether they're deconstructed traditional patterns or digitally processed ones.

Incidentally, in the photo above, I've paired it with rain boots instead of long boots, but personally, I think it looks cool to not show pants with a long coat. Wearing pants tucked into boots is a definite no-no. In that case, perhaps shorts would be a more decisive choice.”

*Turtleneck sweater worn under the coat: ¥60,000 (Johnstons / 03-3473-7007)

BOTTEGA VENETA

Yusuke“Creative Director Tomas Maier is exceptionally skilled at modernizing classical items. This tailored coat has a beautiful shoulder line and a perfectly elegant shape. While it’s a different stance from wearing a typically loose, oversized coat, the volume in the silhouette, thanks to the pleats in the back, is also excellent. The classical English check is elegant and cool, and the double cuffs on the sleeves, retaining a classical feel, are a clever touch.”

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DRIES VAN NOTEN

Yusuke“It’s great how they’ve made the familiar buffalo check, often seen on cowboy shirts, look novel and fresh with bold volume and a maxi length. The raglan sleeves and relaxed, gown-like tailoring are also interesting, showcasing Dries' signature wit. Items proposed by brands like this are, of course, highly appealing.”

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Acne Studios

Yusuke“This is a piece with a unique, roughly textured, rugged material. As it combines elements of 80s businessman looks with 40s couture, the nostalgic atmosphere feels fresh. While evoking a retro mood, the digitally rendered pattern, which seems to mix glen check and windowpane, blends in skillfully. The loose fit also feels comfortable.”

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ami alexandre mattiussi

Yusuke“This belted coat, which arranges a fine houndstooth into a glen check style, has a long length that gives it a bathrobe-like feel. The color is also good, and with features like the concealed placket and loose silhouette, it incorporates the latest trends of the season. The belt has no buckle, so tying it tightly at the front creates a more elegant look. It's also lightweight, so I'd like to wear it like a cardigan.”

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BURBERRY

Yusuke“Among the selections this time, this is the quintessential car coat. Its below-the-knee length feels contemporary, and it’s a superb piece as it’s reversible, featuring a Scottish tartan on one side and bright navy on the other. With raglan sleeves and a light construction, it’s also recommended to wear it simply over a knit or shirt, embracing a jacket-like feel.”

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STELLA McCARTNEY MENSWEAR

Yusuke“It’s a gem with drop shoulders and a slightly oversized, loose silhouette paired with a traditional check pattern. The balance, unique to this brand, is subtly charming. While it seems intended for a relaxed, casual wear, this kind of duffle coat also looks striking and cool when worn over a sharp suit, creating a strong contrast. It naturally pairs well with Vans sneakers and possesses a charming appeal.”

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VALENTINO

Yusuke“Even among check duffle coats, Valentino’s piece offers a strong contrast to the aforementioned one. This coat, a collaboration with Jamie Reid, who created the Sex Pistols’ artwork, features a sharp, tight silhouette, phrase lettering patches on the hem, and intricate distressed detailing. While incorporating classical details, it adds a punk mood. In a sense, it can be said to strongly reflect the true British spirit.”

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【Spotlight】

LOEWE

Yusuke“Personally, I’m currently in the midst of a rainbow color boom. That’s why I instinctively felt ‘I want this!’ The lapels and chest pockets are made of the high-quality nappa tan leather that Loewe excels at. In addition to the vivid multi-stripe color scheme, the overwhelming volume of the shearling wool… it’s truly an item that can instantly change the atmosphere of any space.”

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