FASHION /
MEN
August 3, 2017
Tomoki Yuzuka & Editor Daimaou Talk | Vol. 23 Ryosuke Miyake (MEN'S NON-NO Exclusive Model) (Part 1)
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Ryosuke Miyake, an exclusive model for MEN'S NON-NO, makes a striking impression with his confident and poised demeanor. His impeccable sense of style, evident in how effortlessly he wears any garment, shines through the pages of this magazine. In his private life, however, he favors vintage clothing. Together with Tomoki Sukezane and our Editor-in-Chief, we explore three vintage shops in Tokyo that Miyake recommends. In this first installment of the series, we visit "Shinsei Yofukuya NOIR" in Sangenjaya, the very place that sparked Miyake's journey into the world of vintage fashion.
Interview by Tomoki SukezanePhotographs by Yuki SatoText by Sara Ando (OPENERS)
Three Recommended Vintage Shops by MEN'S NON-NO Exclusive Model Ryosuke Miyake
Tomoki Sukezane & Editor-in-Chief (hereafter, Sukezane)Today, we're visiting three vintage shops recommended by you, Miyake-kun, a vintage enthusiast. Do you mostly wear vintage clothing in your daily life?
Ryosuke Miyake (hereafter, Miyake)Yes. I love vintage clothes, so I often go vintage shopping when I have the time. The three shops I've picked out today are my absolute favorites among my regular haunts.
SukezaneWhat makes them so special?
MiyakeOf course, the curated items are stylish and full of character, but the owners themselves are also fascinating. They possess a wealth of knowledge and a wonderful depth of character... Just talking with them is worthwhile, which is why I find myself wanting to revisit these shops again and again.
SukezaneI see. Shall we begin then?
For That One-of-a-Kind Piece: "Shinsei Yofukuya NOIR"
SukezaneWe've arrived in Sangenjaya. Which shop are we visiting first?
MiyakeMy absolute favorite is NOIR. It's the shop that got me hooked on vintage clothing.
SukezaneWho did you go with the first time?
MiyakeA friend who lived in Sangenjaya brought me here. We decided to 'just look at some vintage clothes.' That was about three years ago. At first, the owner seemed a bit gruff, or perhaps sharp-edged (laughs). He'd stare at us but wouldn't say anything. But on my second visit, a friendly staff member was there, and since then, I've spent a considerable amount of time and money here. Now, the owner and I are good friends.
SukezaneI see. Indeed, the style here is quite interesting. You have vintage pieces alongside designer brands.
MiyakeI'm particularly fond of vintage clothing from before the 1960s, and this shop has many rare items from the 1950s. Beyond that, all the other items are of high quality and quite intriguing.
SukezaneDo you not consider items from the 1960s onwards?
MiyakeOf course, I'll buy them if they look cool. The other day, I bought a pair of Levi's jeans with paint splatters here. I bought them because the design was fantastic. As with everything, whether it looks cool is the deciding factor.
SukezaneSo, your vintage obsession began with NOIR.
MiyakeYes. Since then, I've visited various vintage shops, but NOIR remains the most comfortable for me. I've been greatly influenced by their flexible selection and unique worldview. It's a vintage shop, yet they also have an extensive collection of antique jewelry. Few vintage shops maintain such a high standard.
SukezaneIt's fascinating how you started with 1950s American vintage, but instead of just stocking old items, you also carry designer brand vintage, which then led customers to bring in their own unwanted designer pieces. This creates a positive cycle for both sellers and buyers.
Page02. Check Out Miyake's Picks!
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1950s Western-Style Shirt ¥13,900
MiyakeI really like Western shirts. Similar to Sukajan jackets, I'm drawn to the embroidery and patches.
SukezaneThis is a common feature of Western shirts, but the paneling is also a key detail. The rayon fabric feels great too.
MiyakeThe Italian collar is nice, and I think the red color really pops.
SukezaneWhat about short-sleeved shirts? Do you wear them?
MiyakeI do. I also like Aloha shirts. Last year, Aloha shirts were really in vogue, weren't they?
SukezaneVintage Aloha shirts are timeless in the world of vintage fashion, and they were indeed very prevalent last year.
MiyakeI don't really like following trends. If everyone is wearing something, I tend to think, 'Maybe not.' So, I wanted to wear something a bit more unique, a vintage shirt, which is why I chose this one.
SukezaneThat's true, I don't feel like wearing an Aloha shirt this year either.
MiyakeI'm focusing on Western shirts this summer.
1950s-60s Vintage Sweatshirt ¥17,900
MiyakeI absolutely love vintage sweatshirts, including hoodies, and I'm particularly drawn to this long ribbed hem. The cotton's thickness is also perfect. Items from this era are 100% cotton without any synthetic blends, so the fabric feels wonderfully plush.
SukezaneI'm not sure about this patch, though.
MiyakeFor this particular sweatshirt, the patch is what makes it great!
SukezaneIs that so? (laughs) It looks like a lifeguard's emblem, but it suits you.
Aloha Shirt ¥34,900
SukezaneYou said you wouldn't wear Aloha shirts because everyone else was wearing them.
MiyakeJapanese-patterned ones are different. When I do decide to wear an Aloha shirt, I don't want to go for the most obvious choice.
SukezaneAloha shirts originated from Japanese immigrants in Hawaii, so they were originally made from kimono fabric. But this one is in excellent condition and suits you well. You really do have a knack for wearing traditional Japanese attire.
MiyakeI don't often have opportunities to wear kimonos, but this allows me to incorporate that style more casually.
Neil Barrett Blouson ¥29,900
SukezaneThis one looks like it's been worn quite a bit, but the color is lovely.
MiyakeWhen I tried it on, the fit was perfect too.
SukezaneThis is the only designer brand you've chosen at NOIR. Do you often mix vintage and designer clothing?
MiyakeI don't consciously try to mix them, and there are days when I wear all vintage, and days when I wear all designer brands. I don't have a strong preference, but I often end up mixing them.
SukezanePerhaps the fixed aesthetic of vintage alone isn't quite enough? Even subconsciously, mixing might add a fresh dimension.
MiyakeHaving a variety of elements adds depth, don't you think?
Page02. An Interview with NOIR Store Manager Daiki Miyazaki
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NOIR's Philosophy and Appeal: An Interview with Store Manager Daiki Miyazaki
SukezaneYou mentioned the shop has been open for five years. Was your product selection like this from the beginning?
Daiki Miyazaki, NOIR Store Manager (hereafter, Miyazaki)Perhaps it was a bit more focused initially. We didn't have as many designer items, but the range gradually expanded. I've stayed true to what I originally liked.
SukezaneWhat's your favorite era for vintage?
MiyazakiThe 1950s. The fabric quality is exceptional. The colors and patterns have a vibrancy that's hard to find elsewhere. This era also saw a significant increase in design variety. For American vintage, the 50s are key. My lineup focuses on the 50s, supplemented by older designer pieces.
SukezaneWhat prompted you to start stocking designer vintage?
MiyazakiI like them, of course, but I felt that sticking only to 1950s items or only designer brands would make the selection too uniform. When I thought about creating a cohesive and stylish look within this shop, I realized a variety of tastes would be better. Designer items, after all, excel in both quality and design.
SukezaneDo you feel any dissonance selling them together?
MiyazakiNot at all. In fact, I think it makes things more interesting. I carry many items from the 90s and 00s, and I believe they complement each other's strengths.
SukezaneAre there any connections between the designer pieces from those eras and your preferred 1950s items?
MiyazakiSome designs are influenced by the 50s, but rather than replicas, I aim for combinations that create an interesting contrast, even if they seem unrelated. Juxtaposing items that appear to have no connection can be quite intriguing.
SukezaneI found it quite fascinating to see a J.W. Anderson sweatshirt being sold at a bargain price amidst the vintage items. The way things are mixed together in this compact space feels very new. And then there was this older lady who came in, saying, 'Buy this for me,' holding something that looked like a Versace gift.
MiyazakiWe get a lot of those ladies! (laughs)
SukezaneDo your customers primarily seek out the core 50s pieces?
MiyazakiSome do. We also have customers who started with vintage and then became interested in designer brands, and others who came for designer brands and discovered a passion for the 50s.
SukezaneWhere do you source your clothing?
MiyazakiExcept for antique jewelry, most of our sourcing is done within Japan. We do bring some items from America, but we also work with wholesale companies regularly. I make about ten buying trips a month. Additionally, I purchase from collectors and individuals. For designer vintage, consignment is common. Items from private collections often have excellent quality and condition.
SukezaneYour selection of accessories is also quite extensive.
MiyazakiI select items for both men and women, but not many men are keen on wearing accessories. You, Miyake-kun, are an exception. I want to introduce the possibilities and show how interesting accessories can be, which is why I put effort into this area.
SukezaneWhere do you source the jewelry from?
MiyazakiI visit vintage fairs and antique centers in the UK about twice a year. I find many items that aren't available in Japan.
SukezaneWhat do you enjoy most about running this shop?
MiyazakiThe items I like are often niche and can be quite expensive, so they might not be impulse purchases. However, what I find truly rewarding is seeing how my passion for these items gradually resonates with customers, building a loyal following and drawing them into this world. It's fulfilling to feel that I'm expanding this community.
Sukezane(Pointing to Miyake) Someone like him is a perfect example.
MiyakeYes, thank you! (laughs)
SukezaneWhat does the sign at the shop's entrance signify?
MiyazakiWe created it when the shop first opened. It embodies meanings like 'authentic,' 'genuine,' and 'timeless.'
SukezaneThat's wonderful. Lastly, could you share your store's policy?
MiyazakiSelection is paramount. Not only do I personally choose each item, but I also decline purchases if I don't feel they fit the shop's aesthetic. It might sound presumptuous, but we only stock items that meet a certain standard. I refuse to compromise. I constantly strive to offer excellent pieces.
SukezaneThank you very much.
Ryosuke Miyake
Born July 3, 1995, in Kyoto Prefecture. Exclusive model for MEN'S NON-NO. As a rising male model, he is active in apparel shoots, music videos for prominent artists, and magazines. His hobby is collecting vintage clothing. A true fashion enthusiast, he can often be found lingering in his favorite shops whenever he has free time. Instagram: @ryosukemiyake_
Shinsei Yofukuya NOIR
Address: 1-35-3 Sangenjaya, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 090-8640-0317
URL: ameblo.jp/noir-clothes instagram.com/noir120317
Hours: Weekdays 4:00 PM - 12:00 AM, Weekends & Holidays 2:00 PM - 12:00 AM (Closed only during New Year holidays)