FASHION /
MEN
March 14, 2017
M・A・R・S: Accessories for the Discerning Gentleman, Aged to Perfection
M・A・R・S | Mars
Sophisticated Accessories for the Discerning Man
The Japanese silver accessory boom, which gained momentum in the late 1990s and led to men commonly wearing jewelry, was a significant cultural shift. While the mainstream designs of that era catered to a biker aesthetic, "M・A・R・S (Mars)" was already ahead of its time, crafting sophisticated pieces that skillfully incorporated curves and combined different materials. Established in 1990, the brand is now celebrating its 27th year. Here, we delve into the allure of Mars products, which consistently exude a charismatic masculinity while capturing the era's edge, yet blend in without being overly assertive.
Photographs by TANAKA TsutomuStill Photographs by JamandfixText by TOMIYAMA Eizaburo
The COMPOSIT SERIES, Inspired by Bamboo Craft
When one thinks of "M・A・R・S (Mars)" signature designs, the "COMPOSIT SERIES" immediately comes to mind. This remarkable design draws inspiration from the traditional Japanese art of bamboo weaving, reinterpreting it in metal. A key feature is the ability to select and add your favorite charms. The original prototypes are meticulously crafted by weaving three silver wires of varying thicknesses using a unique technique. While the individual pieces possess a strong presence, when worn, they reveal a delicate, intricate, and elegantly refined beauty. It's a series that exudes a truly captivating charm.
"I have a bit of a greedy side," says designer Yoji Yoneyama. "I wanted to incorporate all contradictory elements: hard yet soft, flexible yet substantial. That's when bamboo craft came to mind. When I think about it, I've always loved bamboo work; it's something that's been in the back of my mind for a long time."
The idea of weaving silver like bamboo began to form in 2005. It took a full four years to reach completion. Ultimately, the project relied on the expertise of Toyohiko Asama, a master craftsman from PLUS4. Mars had long recognized his exceptional technical skills.
"At first, I thought it was impossible," recalls craftsman Asama. "Silver that's too hard or too soft can't be woven, and while it could be made thin, it wouldn't have sufficient strength. We experimented with various weaving methods, of course, considering the purity of the material. Initially, we tried weaving with two strands, but that didn't achieve the desired density and looked too sparse. After much trial and error, we finally discovered a method."
The exact weaving method for the COMPOSIT series is a trade secret. Currently, products are made by molding the woven material, but there are plans to offer bespoke, one-of-a-kind jewelry made with the actual weaving technique in the future. If realized, it would be possible to make one of the three strands from yellow gold, for example. Additionally, new weaving patterns are currently under research.
There Are No "XX-Style" Designs at Mars
"I've known Yoneyama-san for about 15 years, and he is absolutely uncompromising," says master craftsman Asama. "With the COMPOSIT series, he wasn't just focused on making the weave look beautiful; he was incredibly meticulous about the roundness and volume. For other series too, he gives us challenging requests that require extensive research to fulfill (laughs). That's precisely what makes it interesting. While many things in the world are described as 'XX-style,' there isn't a single 'XX-style' design at Mars. Everything is original."
There is another craftsman whom Yoneyama of Mars trusts implicitly: Shin Kanazawa of Gold Works, who handles polishing and finishing. He, too, describes Yoneyama as a formidable counterpart.
"Naturally, areas that need to be sharp are made sharp, and areas that require roundness are rounded. He dislikes any sloppiness, so I can't cut corners (laughs). That's why preparation is crucial. The final finishing touch for accessories is buffing, but I aim to do as little as possible at that stage. This means meticulously working through with coarse and then fine files, and then a quick buff at the end. This process results in a perfectly balanced form. What I believe defines the Mars aesthetic is this almost earnest dedication to detail, combined with a rugged masculinity," explains finishing specialist Kanazawa.
Mars maintains a strong commitment not only to appearance but also to the feel of the jewelry when worn. In Yoneyama's words, the most important aspect is a "moist" balance throughout the piece. This dedication stems from his experience handling all processes himself, from prototype creation to finishing and polishing, excluding mold making. This allows him to make detailed demands of his craftsmen. Around 2010, he began to shift his focus more towards design.
"One of the triggers was the decision to start a women's line," Yoneyama explains. "However, in the world of silver accessories, there's a strong image of the craftsman who conceives, carves, and completes everything alone. So, I had my internal conflicts. But when considering how to create a better final product, I began to think that perhaps it would be better not to do certain parts myself, or that certain components might be better produced by machine using CAD. I wanted to explore these possibilities. As a result, my approach to design naturally evolved, and my compromises decreased even further."
Enjoy Fashion with Accessories, Like Hats or Glasses
By entrusting certain tasks to others, Mars has expanded its options and can pursue its creative vision more purely. Simultaneously, Yoneyama has gained a broader perspective on the brand, akin to that of a producer.
"When designing, I envision someone with a sophisticated, minimalist, and modern sensibility wearing it, or perhaps someone who appears playful yet not outlandish, someone with a simple style. However, the most important thing is how to enhance originality and quality. Moving forward, I want to continue expressing genuine, cool individuality without being overly eccentric," says designer Yoneyama.
Beyond the COMPOSIT series, Mars offers the elegant HUIT series, featuring beautiful curves inspired by the number 8 and the infinity symbol. The brand also boasts popular collections inspired by insects and animals, born from a deep respect for the natural world. Since its inception, Mars has consistently pursued the ultimate, with designs that have been carefully matured over time, perfectly suited for the sophisticated, older gentleman. Much like playing with fashion through hats or glasses, adding an accent with accessories feels refreshingly relevant once again.
M・A・R・S Flagship Store
1-17-11-1F Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0021
1-17-11-1F Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
☎︎03-3462-8187
Business Hours: 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM
http://www.m-a-r-s.co.jp/





