A Bespoke Masterpiece Through a Unique Made-to-Measure System

"I first became interested in bespoke suits when I was 27. Back then, I favored American styles, but in my mid-thirties, I started to prefer suits with a more fitted, adult silhouette. Since then, I've based my style on British tailoring while adding my own personal touches," says Solimachi.

One might assume he prefers conservative British styles, but that's not entirely the case. He incorporates slightly rounded silhouettes, adds a touch of French flair, and deliberately avoids overly rigid suits, aiming for a balanced aesthetic rather than adhering strictly to one style.


The "Firenze," on the other hand, has become a popular model in Japan in recent years. Its jacket length is about 3cm shorter than the "Milano" model, offering a more compact silhouette. The sleeves are constructed like a shirt, providing a softer feel around the shoulders. The overall style is smart and fitted, emphasizing curved lines. We were curious to see how Solimachi, a first-timer, would react. In addition to the "Milano" and "Firenze" models tried on today, other options include "Premium," "Milano Easy," and "Torino."

"It's so light, I feel absolutely no restriction. It's this comfortable even as a sample. So, with adjustments, the comfort will be even greater. The fabrics I usually choose tend to be British, focusing on tightly woven, heavyweights. It's wonderful to experience lightweight, luxurious fabrics too," says Solimachi.

Page02.Finest Fabrics to Choose From Over 500 Varieties

Finest Fabrics to Choose From Over 500 Varieties

The adjustments are recorded by staff onto a specialized order sheet. The detail in this sheet is remarkable. For jackets, for instance, there are 11 types of adjustments for both "widening" and "narrowing," and over 10 different correction options for the shoulders alone. This level of detailed correction brings the process remarkably close to bespoke tailoring. These adjustment data are then sent to Italy, where the garments are sewn in Zegna's own factories (some in Switzerland). Naturally, customers can select their preferred fabrics from the extensive swatch books, as well as linings and buttons.


True to its heritage as a fabric manufacturer, the selection comprises only the highest quality materials. Customers can choose from over 500 varieties woven by "Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna" (Zegna's wool mill). This includes the perennial favorite "Trofeo," as well as "Trofeo Mohair" and "High Performance" fabrics, all showcasing Zegna's renowned quality and functionality. New colors and patterns are introduced each season for spring/summer and autumn/winter, further enhancing the Su Misura experience.

For example, "15MILMIL15" is an exquisite fabric made exclusively from superfine Australian wool fibers measuring just 15 microns in diameter. This results in a supple drape that conforms to the body. For perspective, human hair is about 60 microns thick – this fabric is a quarter of that diameter.



"Regarding the fabrics, those woven with high-twist yarns from Britain can feel somewhat stiff. In contrast, Zegna's 'High Performance' fabrics, despite being made with high-twist yarns that resist wrinkles, are surprisingly soft and even have a smooth, luxurious feel. I was truly impressed. These are fabrics that perfectly suit an urban setting. The structured silhouette of the suits also conveys a sense of refined intellect," says Solimachi.

When it comes to styling his suits, Solimachi prioritizes "blending into the urban landscape." In other words, he strives to dress in a way that complements the surrounding environment.

"In Ginza, I wouldn't want to walk around in a T-shirt (laughs). It's a sophisticated district, after all. I'd love to stroll through the city in suits like the Milano or Firenze models I tried today. But if I were in Kichijoji or Shimokitazawa, a suit might actually stand out too much. Casual wear would blend in better there. It might sound a bit conceited, but I believe attire can shape the atmosphere of a place, or even imbue it with a sense of refinement," says Solimachi.




Having experienced the world of Ermenegildo Zegna's made-to-measure for the first time, Solimachi seems to have developed a fondness for Su Misura. While there are differences in suit styles and fabric textures between Britain and Italy, both share a common pursuit of quality and sophistication. Perhaps you too might consider ordering a Su Misura suit with your own personal touch and stepping out into the city.