Pursuing the Construction of Three-Dimensional Forms

──What is the theme/concept for the 2015-16 Autumn/Winter collection?

The theme is "FORMS." It's about how to construct three-dimensional forms within minimal design, rather than expressing volume through decorative shapes. Therefore, I'm conscious of the balance of incorporating three-dimensional forms with a masculine core.

──What were your points of focus and what should people pay attention to in this season's look shoot?

My focus was on conveying a sense of "weight" through the photographs.

──What are the differences in styling, silhouette, and color compared to last year's Autumn/Winter collection?

This is our first Autumn/Winter collection.

──What is the key look (coordination) for this season?

The key look is a setup of a collarless jacket and ankle-length curved pants.
Among the items offered this season, the jacket and pants, constructed with minimal pieces, utilize anatomical cutting patterns to pursue aspects like arm mobility and knee fit.
Additionally, the pattern, which extensively uses curves, creates intentional wrinkles in certain areas, making them part of the design. The fabric is a twill-weave cotton and wool mossa, needle-punched. Please note the textured surface, where the weave direction allows the underlying black to emerge randomly, creating a depth of expression.

The Fabric Symbolizing the Season's Theme

──What are the key items and key colors?

The key item is a high-neck leather jacket.
Using vegetable-tanned kip nubuck leather, it's dyed khaki at the base stage and then finished with gray. This creates a mottled effect of gray and khaki depending on the direction of the nubuck's pile.
The pattern pursues form construction with as few seams as possible, using darts. The three-dimensional parts become seamless, and all stitching is done with overlocking, making the darts and seams design points.

Key colors are black, white, gray khaki, and gray navy.
Black and white serve as base colors throughout the year, but as other basic variations, I find it appealing to establish a core dark color and express its gradations within the fabric. Therefore, we also propose lighter shades that might not be commonly seen in menswear.

──What "materials" did you focus on this season?

A double-faced fabric made of silk chiffon, wool melton, and wool nep, needle-punched into three layers.
The silk chiffon material that creates the fabric's texture is so delicate it can be easily torn by hand. However, by combining it with the base melton using needle punching, it creates a loose weave structure where the base melton is visible. Further processed with resin printing, it becomes a fabric symbolizing the season's theme, embodying strength within delicacy.

──Please express "this season's mood" in one word.

Mottled

──What stimulates the brand's (designer's) creativity?

Nature. It allows me to reconfirm and discover my own aesthetic sense.