SHOES MADE TO LIVE LIFE TOGETHER

――Your shoes are made to order, according to customer requests.

Yes. I can complete about one pair a day, roughly 300 pairs a year. Therefore, they possess a value entirely different from any ready-made shoes on the market. All processes are done by my hands, except for a small final finishing operation. As for the collections, we offer both classic and elegant men's models, as well as slightly sporty and modern types.

――What is your primary philosophy when creating shoes?

Seeking comfort. It is an indispensable element for well-made, quality shoes; valuable shoes must always be comfortable under any condition. That said, aesthetic beauty is also naturally important in the end. Therefore, I strive to balance these two aspects – when they are perfectly balanced, the result is undeniably excellent.

――Do you have any sources of inspiration?

Moments from the past. Especially designs, looks, objects… everything from the 1920s to the 1940s provides me with many keys to unlock my creativity and imagination.

――Perhaps the shoes made by your grandfather, in that sense?

Probably. I personally try to treat everything with care according to the tradition passed down since 1922, when my grandfather founded the workshop. He, my father, and of course myself… we have all dedicated ourselves to making shoes of excellent quality, and I am proud that we have always done so without exception until now. I am not interested in expanding my business. On the contrary, I believe that increasing production oriented towards quantity could destroy the "know-how" we have accumulated throughout our history. Ultimately, everything on my shoulders speaks for itself – because my sole focus is on quality.



――We heard you started making shoes when you were 11 years old.

I grew up surrounded by the smell of leather; I always sensed it. The workshop, for me, was like a playground – I ran around my father and grandfather as they worked with concentration. This playground eventually became my real workshop when I was 11. Casette d'Ete, where my workshop is located, is a heartland for Italian shoemaking – it even houses the central factory of a world-renowned brand. Shoemaking has historically been essential there; inhabitants made shoes even after World War II, using surplus military clothing as materials. From that era to today, most of the population is still involved in shoe production in various ways.

――The workshop was founded almost 100 years ago – what elements would you like to preserve from your grandfather's era, and what changes would you like to introduce in the future?

In any case, I want to continue preserving the tradition. I suppose, at the same time, it is also crucial to offer new surprises reflecting social demands. Although we want to try adding something fun and revolutionary in a certain way, we can NEVER abandon the true, authentic method of shoemaking. The construction, the mechanism, the technique… the classics are eternally valuable and must always be respected.

――Could you elaborate?

It starts with the selection of materials – the laces, the threads, and of course the leather; all the pieces that construct my shoes are 100% natural, free from chemical treatment. Vegetable-tanned leathers are hand-tanned and dyed artisanally. This pair of oxfords, for example, has a uniquely distinct color tone, using two colors – burgundy and goose yellow. The colors are applied to the surface and polished, applied and polished… repeating the process many times gradually achieves this indescribable hue.

The same applies to the glue I use for assembly. I use chestnut glue, essentially made from chestnut flour diluted with water. The glue becomes stimulated and softened by the moisture from sweat, body heat from the foot… any phenomenon that occurs inside the shoe during steps, which further enhances natural comfort over time. During this natural transformation, the shoes will take on the shape of the wearer's feet, becoming an impeccable pair that exists solely for that person.




――Are there any retail outlets where one can purchase your ready-made shoes?

Frankly, the answer is no. I have received many requests, but I have declined them all simply due to production limitations. I have rarely had foreign customers as a result – indeed, I had never sold my shoes to Japanese people before this visit to Tokyo!

――Do you not even consider the possibility of expanding the workshop?

I am not interested in large-scale business. Instead, I would like to continue doing what I have always done – maintaining the tradition of my ancestors, moving tradition forward alongside me, and ultimately preserving tradition.

――There are millions of shoe manufacturers in the global fashion market. How do you define, or what do you characterize as the strength of your footwear in light of this fact?

My shoes last forever. My shoes live life together with their owners. They grow together, share intimate moments, and stay together. The shoes literally represent and showcase the owners' lives. Time passes, and damage will occur – I take care of that. At a certain point, the time comes to disassemble and reassemble for reconstruction – I handle that too. Perhaps my shoes, in this sense, are there to support the precious lives of each client.



PAOLO MARIANI
Born in the Marche region in 1979. Watching his father and grandfather, who were artisan shoemakers, his interest drove him to enter the world of footwear at the age of 11. As the third successor after his father, he produces shoes where tradition and modernity meet. His first visit to Japan was made possible by an accidental encounter with Noriyasu Muramatsu, the Fashion Director, on Facebook. His collection will be available at UNITED ARROWS and Takizawa Shigeru stores in Japan from the FW 2015-16 season. Outside of his craft, he is passionate about agriculture and farming, aiming for a self-sufficient "slow life" with his wife and two daughters.

BOTTEGA PAOLO MARIANI
http://www.bottegapaolomariani.it